Rolls

I'm pretty sure that is what I had to do, I bought a car interstate and had an engine swap so needed a full inspection, if it is standard motor etc you can get away with just getting a numbers check at a local police station, if it looks modified they will send it to regency for the full inspection though. The full inspection is basically like if you had your car defected, they go over absolutely everything with a torch, the will yank on all your wheels with a crowbar and see if theres any play in bushes, check for oil leaks, broken boots over steering joints etc. Make sure everything is up to scratch and legal, if your car is too loud or low they will fail you, if you have obvious engine mods they will require an emissions test etc. It is pretty hardcore, you'll want to get most of it back to standard to pass. FMIC and pods are ok providing they are mounted correctly, same goes for exhausts, they just have to be legal volume, have a cat and be mounted at the correct height etc. edit: All my forms say it was an M1 test, so if it is the same code system that they gave you it might just be an engine number inspection.

The ECU itself isn't the cause, it is the fact it is not tuned for his car. Same goes with the standard ECU, he has modded his car to an extent where the standard tune is not coping hence it pulling ignition and making the car run very rich.

SAFC is just as expensive as a nistune to get installed, might as well go the full hog if you are going to do it.

Because the ECU you have is running too rich and causing a misfire, or the ignition is too advanced causing knocking so it pulls the timing out, or it is just reading too much airflow and goes into 'shit we are running infinite boost and going to explode' mode. Standard ECUs are known to do this as soon as you up the boost, they are reading way more air than they are designed for so they richen the mixture up and pull all timing. It is supposed to happen as a safety feature, you need to get it tuned to fix the issue.

If EFI can do remapping on the dyno this is absolutely your best option to get the problem fixed. I would definitely be opting to get this done.

The reason it is knocking all the time is because the ignition is advanced too far, which is exactly what the mines chips do, they just advance the ignition t give you more power. Get it tuned properly.

Coils could amplify the issue, but the tune will still be out of wack. Worth checking them for signs of arcing and them shorting though. I've found running too rich makes bad coils far more obvious as the richer the mixture the harder it is too ignite. If you lean the tune out bad coils that miss all the time can stop missing. Experienced all this first hand.

Better option is to print out the ADRs saying that it is legal, go down to the local police station with that and your defect notice, if you are polite and show you've done the research I have heard of them revoking the notice before.

It isn't part of a load bearing structure so there is no issue with there being a hole there. Take it back and tell them politely.

Its been done before, it doesn't work and they fry very quickly. Fork out for some splitfire and be done with it, you'll end up spending twice as much and all your time if you dick around with dodgy hack solutions.

God damn this is frustrating, it isn't the ECU, it is the tune on the ECU, did you not read my posts? I am quite sure the mines ECU is just a standard ECU with a chip in it so R&R is going to happen as the tune is not meant for your engine The mines has a tune for a car that is not yours on it, you need to have to tuned to suit your car. A nistune is the cheapest option, there are people in the states using nistune modules so I see no reason why it can't be done in NZ. Give them an email and they will list people that can tune it for you. Every engine is different, you can't put an ecu in and expect it to run properly without having the tune amended. If you aren't going to listen to people with bucket loads of experience, then don't bother asking for help. The problem is your ECU is not tuned to suit your car, until you fix this you will experience the issues you have listed, you are also risking popping your motor, the O2 sensor won't change your power output as the signal is disregarded when running at full throttle, however it might make your car run slightly better on cruise.

What is the difference, just a stronger spring? I wonder if there is a way to open it up, would be easier if I could just preload the spring in mine with a few washers.

Probably an oldschool gas analyser which reports in some custom units. Or maybe it is reading PPM of CO2 or something.

Could be blown head gasket? You said it was running very very hot and there was steam coming out the exhaust, which sounds like a blown head gasket to me, could just be very mild though. Do a full compression test wet and dry and let us know what the results are.

Ok firstly find a proper performance mechanic, not one that uses the nissan diagnostic tool only to find your problems. 2ndly the mines ECU is complete rubbish, sell it and put your stock ECU back in, if anything the mines ECU is going to be worse because its just got a shitty chip that is designed for japanese fuel and climates, not australian ones causing R&R to happen much sooner. All they do is advance the timing massively and richen it up, neither are what you want, all it will do is cause R&R sooner and probably cause the motor to ping its tits off killing the motor in a short period of time. Do not listen to advice from whoever told you to buy that ECU again. Now once you have found a proper nissan performance mechanic and reinstalled your standard ecu I highly recommend a nistune. A nistune will be installed into your standard ECU and will allow the mechanic to tune it as if it was a full aftermarket ECU, they can tune fuel and ignition along with a load of other features. This will fix the R&R issue you are having, it will let them lean out the mixtures and add extra timing all over the map. This will allow you to run you 13psi of boost, it will give you way more power and better fuel economy. A proper mechanic who tunes and installs nistune modules regularly should be able to confirm whether or not your O2 sensor needs to be replaced. The reason it is running rich is that is what the ECU tune you just paid money for is, rich. The reason the timing is retarded is they advance the timing so far that the ecu detects very high knock levels and winds it back way past what even the standard tune would have. This is 100% expected as you have a tune that was designed for a different engine configuration than yours. Even with the same mods just the fuel and climate change is enough to put the tune completely out of whack. It is not the fact the ECU is bad, it is the fact you are putting an untuned ECU into your car, even if you had a $5k motec computer and didn't tune it our opinion would be it is shit. The whole point of replacing an ECU is so you can get it tuned to suit the specific car, chipping it is just dumb waste of time and money 90% of the time. Nistune is as good as powerFC is my opinion, if anything it is better as it retains the stock ecu making it 'legal' when going through inspections, contains all the standard features as well meaning you get great idle when flicking the ac on off etc. I know you can get this with a PFC but it isn't as easy. I'd be surprised if it was making more than 120kw with the tune so out of whack that it is winding the timing back due to knock levels.

Yeah, I used to have a 2 door HR31 and you got lots of 'wow I have never seen one of those before' looks now I just get 'wow you are a dickhead'

Well it is quieter than a proper aftermarket atmo venting one, but it still is loud enough for people to look at you like a dickhead everytime it comes on boost.

Didn't know you could, how difficult is it to pull apart? Guess all I need is a stiffer spring, or preload it with something.

I don't mind if it flutter a little, currently it doesn't at all. I guess I will have to try and see if there is any medium where there is a little of both.

I've got the standard rb20 plumback bov on my rb25 (r32 with 25det and highflow) but its just way too loud even on 10psi, sounds like a stupid aftermarket hks gay one. I was considering putting a gasket with a very small hole on the bov, limiting how fast it can vent the air to try and quieten it down. I like the sound the pod makes so I don't really want to remove this, is there any easy way to keep the induction noise but quieten down the noise when you throttle off? Is my idea likely to work?

What happens, only makes a slight difference? What if you almost double the thickness of the oil? Probably wear the components faster and make the car ever so slightly slower, but be interesting to see the effects on the LSD.

I read every page, or at least I thought I did, no one mentioned opening up the actual centre and changing the viscous fluid.

Posted it in the other thread but I will post it in here as well: Has anyone considered changing the actual viscous fluid in the LSD centre? As changing the preload is really just a tightass hack that won't really work that well. It either locks or open wheels sort of thing, no middle ground where its like 50% locked. The only time you could achieve the nice medium is if your diff was still in good condition and not completely open wheeling. I've heard of people putting thicker fluid in the viscous centre in 300zx's etc so surely it can be done here, is the centre serviceable, like can it be unbolted and pulled apart? If so it would just be a matter of finding out what fluid is currently in there and replacing it with something thicker. Anyway let me know if anyone has done this before or knows if the oil can even be changed. edit: Perhaps I am wrong but I am assuming that the diff centre is sealed and uses a different oil to the actual diff crown and pinion, if not could we just experiment with putting thicker oil in the diff itself? Would make the car slightly more sluggish, but might make a big difference.

Has anyone considered changing the actual viscous fluid in the LSD centre? As changing the preload is really just a tightass hack that won't really work that well. It either locks or open wheels sort of thing, no middle ground where its like 50% locked. The only time you could achieve the nice medium is if your diff was still in good condition and not completely open wheeling. I've heard of people putting thicker fluid in the viscous centre in 300zx's etc so surely it can be done here, is the centre serviceable, like can it be unbolted and pulled apart? If so it would just be a matter of finding out what fluid is currently in there and replacing it with something thicker. Anyway let me know if anyone has done this before or knows if the oil can even be changed. edit: Perhaps I am wrong but I am assuming that the diff centre is sealed and uses a different oil to the actual diff crown and pinion, if not could we just experiment with putting thicker oil in the diff itself? Would make the car slightly more sluggish, but might make a big difference.

Thanks bud, I did do a search but found it hard to find the info I needed.