Rolls

This is the best advice in the thread. Sell the car. Buy another R33 that is worth maybe 3-4k more. You will be getting at least $10-15k worth of mods for that extra $4k, reason is you never get any return on your investment with cars. I did exactly this, bought an R32 gts-t for $11.5k and I got a full rebuilt rb25det, $2k highflow turbo, exhaust, ecu, injectors, suspension, aftermarket ecu, fuel pump, bushes, new clutch etc. Even got the receipts for all the above adding up to over $20k. Sure sometimes it can be fun building your own car up, personally I think its a stupid waste of money, buy someone else's project and with the ridiculous amount of money you have saved personalise it.

This fix is hit and miss, getting splitfires is your best bet if it doesn't work. Also having a rich tune and poor sparkplugs compounds the problem, making sure you aren't running lower than 11.5:1 will help dramatically as well.

Is the R200 shortnose a viscous or clutch type diff in the R32 GTS-Ts? Reason I ask is mine is opening up pretty bad and makes it quite unpredictable to drive. If it is viscous would adding more preload via wider diff shims be of any benefit? Or will it just make it harder to open up but will still be the same on full power? Can the viscous oil be changed to something thicker? If not guess I'll be looking for a nismo 1.5 way or something, wouldn't mind a cheap fix in the time being though. Only have 200kw and cant put it down in 1st or 2nd.

because im cheap and didnt want to waste my money and time doing it haha

That is why I always buy other peoples project cars, all their time and money, and I get all the enjoyment for only a slight price hike. Bought a 32 for $11k, guy had bought it for $11k, spent $20k and basically sold it for the same price. I still feel bad for him.

I don't understand how people can spend that long building a car, what do you do in the mean time, just drive a daily and cry yourself to sleep? haha.

Everyone in the ford scene seems to rave about them as much as you guys rave about royal purple etc.

Anyone here heard of mainlube? They look pretty impressive to me, better than royal purple etc.

I imagine suspension also comes into play with wheel spin, if the car can squat it is obviously going to put it down better than if it has stupid stiff drift suspension.

Will sound the same unless you move the pipes to different sides of the car or you are standing directly behind it. Personally I would still use a cross over pipe, reasoning being is only 1 cylinder is firing at once, if you have twin separate pipes then the single pulse is only going out one pipe, if you have a cross over pipe then its going out both pipes. Obviously with a turbo and the compression of the exhaust gases the pulses basically merge into a constant flow, but there are still some gains to be had by using a cross over pipe.

There's a reason they merge the pipes, if you really want to have twin exhausts do it like they do on V8s and use a cross over pipe, this way you use the exhaust system more effectively increasing flow and also avoiding this problem.

You need at least 10 posts to get PM privileges or something, this is what happens when you introduce things like that, small price to pay to get rid of the spam bots though.

I looked at the jaycar kit but it looked like it based its boost duty cycle entirely on rpm not an error signal from the actual boost setting, though I might be wrong. Can it match the ramp and stability of the brand name EBCs out there?

People were claiming up to 500rpm decrease in spool time with some of the better EBCs, I thought this was due to the type of controller they were, turns out pretty much anything electronic will be better than a bleed valve and can keep it closed until just before you hit full boost.

No reason I just figured it would give better control than a plain simple proportional gain controller. The fact that it had multiple parameters you could tune is what made me think this was the case. Guess I will have to read some more reviews and find out what are the better EBCs then.

rb25 intake with custom fuel rail and I think there is a slight modification to the inlet manifold to accept the bigger injectors as well.

After reading the manual it looks like it only has one gain setting, so perhaps it is not a proper PID controller or maybe it hides these settings from you? You can only change 'offset' according to this manual: http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31/HK...anual%201.0.pdf Where as the eboost has 3 settings, one is the gain level for your max boost, and then two other parameters, which let you increase the sensitivity so it ramps boost up faster and harder, and another to control the sensitivity so that it doesn't oscillate. Maybe I will just have to save up and get an eboost second hand.

Series 2 rb25det rebuilt with forged pistons etc. Has series 1 running gear and some rb20 stuff as it is in an R32 gts-t. Turbo is rb20 but highflowed by gcg so it is basically identical to a 25 highflow hence the need for GTR injectors.

Yep so all I will be doing is making the tuner's job harder if I put the magnaflow back on?

Thanks that is all I needed to hear, I will adapt the standard one onto my aftermarket rail. Wasn't sure if the stock ones were a proportional rise or exponential, if they are prop then there would be a definite tuning disadvantage with the aftermarket exponential one.

I just wondering if theres any cheap (non brand name) boost controlers out there that are still proper PID controllers. When I say PID I mean for example the eboost with the 3 tuneable parameters sp, gb and sn, these are the proportional, integral and derivative gain terms I imagine. This allows you to allow the gate to open exactly at the right time giving faster spool up over no boost controller, a bleed valve or just a plain electronic one with duty cycle vs revs gain only. I know theres plenty of other good brand name EBCs out there but they are all $400+, was just wondering if there was something generic out there eg like the jaycar EBC but still allows you to tune all 3 parameters for ultimate boost control and you aren't paying for the brand name? Just looking at using a bleed valve for now as I can't justify the $400 for the tiny increase in spoolup time and electronic boost cut protection. Even if you don't know of any generic devices out there if people could list some of the cheaper brand name models that have this functionality that would be fantastic. Cheers

So theres actually disadvantages to the aftermarket reg? What are the differences, just the fact that it is adjustable and you can easily bump the pressure up? Or does the fuel pressure rise differently to a stock one, eg exponentially instead of proportionally? Sounds like theres no good reason to use it so I will most likely adapt the stock one back on and sell it then.

I've got a rebuilt rb25det with a gcg highflow etc, currently it just has stock injectors/reg new pump and is running 10psi. Tuner said it is ok on the stock injectors and making about 200kw, anymore though and I risk leaning it out due to 100% duty cycle esp in cold weather or if I get a boost spike. I had a fuel rail with gtr injectors, magnaflow regulator etc in it initially but it had to pass a full roadworthy so I removed them and got it retuned. Anyway its all on the road and I'm itching for more power, will be getting a Z32 afm and putting the rail and injectors back in, but I am unsure what to do about the regulator. I've read everywhere that the stock one is good for up to 300kw and theres no reason to change it, but being as I already have the reg are there any advantages to using it, or is it just going to make it harder for the tuner to tune? Will be putting the turbo up to 14-16psi depending on how it responds. The other thing is its shiny and pink so it really screams defect me, so if I put it back in I'm going to paint it black along with the ultra shiny fuel rail to keep it looking stock. Cheers.

wtf 4 years old thread bump?

Depending on the type of the piston used the dome design might lower/raise compression, it might also change the burn characteristics so that you get different emissions. Most workshops will dodge something up for you though as they know regency will only check if the values are absurd.