Rolls

I had a rebuilt rb25det and a highflowed gcg turbo. Now the turbo looked brand new as it had been sandblasted, I made sure to remove the GCG logo and just told the guy it was rebuilt to standard specs. As far as the motor theres no way in hell they are going to know if its got forged pistons or not, I know they couldn't tell with me.

Why would a heavier oil prevent the bearings from going? If they were going to go I doubt it would have matter which oil they used, something was obviously wrong with that motor from day one. Or it had high kms and had a hard life. Good post but have you compared the 8100 oil analysis to any other oil? Because if you don't compare it to anything the results aren't really that useful, you need to compare it to other oils to see which is doing a better job for your engine. Sure you can see the job it is currently doing, but you can't see if it is better/worse than other oils. Just something to add here ester is a type of chemical, it is not A chemical. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ester I realise you probably know this, but thought I would post it in case others do not. Also I totally agree that no one on this forum can tell the difference between what oil they are using by feel, sure you might get less tappet noise, different oil pressures etc, but unless you are comparing a 5-30w to 25-60w oil you are not going to be able to feel the difference. Oil analysis is really the only scientific way to compare the job they are doing.

You can tell where the guard joins the side skirt, big gap etc and the skirts look all wavy. Was just curious if that was due to where the mounting points were, also I got a dirty2 now as well, should update my profile, ty.

Thanks. Didn't mean to fag up your thread, but the kit quite noticeably is wavy and doesn't line up from that last picture. Is this due to the way it was installed/mounted, or is it a defect in the actual design?

Discount cause nothing lines up and the whole kit is wavy?

This is true!

you could always, you know, look yourself. Its result no. 2 in google lol.

Ring them up?

Yes provided the entire stock crank case ventilation system is in place and you have simply placed the catch can inline with this system. I went through regency recently with this and had no issues.

Report who?

Wow great job at being civil. Perhaps if you were friendly and explained the reasoning for why she might have thought you were speeding when you weren't might have gotten you somewhere. If you talk to a cop like that then he will go out of his way to mess with you.

Well in that case willing to take offers, $220 INCLUDING delivery is still cheaper though haha

Yes they do but thats $440 all up. I'm selling $220 delivered for a set of rear ones.

Item: Brand new R32 GTS-T rear wheel bearings, package has been opened but they are still all greased up in their plastic bags. Come with 12 month warranty. Condition: As New To Fit: R32 GTS-T however they may fit other models, you would need to confirm this with Nissan spare parts. Location: Adelaide, South Australia Reason I am selling them is I failed a regency inspection due to movement in the rear end, they said it was my wheel bearings. After ordering them and going to get them fitted I soon found out it was my HICAS tie rod ball joints that were stuffed, not my wheel bearings. Nissan want $360 EACH for genuine wheel bearings, and most other places want $250-300. Willing to let them go for $220 delivered anywhere in Australia, they are quite heavy so freight is normally ~$40. Contact: Roland on <removed> or PM me on here, I will get back to you fastest via mobile however.

Really? I've got a huge ass K&N filter on there, surely that can't be 'too restrictive' ? It is still a nice red colour and not dirty as well. I am running a highflow gcg on my 25 though.

This looks really handy, pretty sure my intake is sucking shut as it starts to die in the ass after 58-6000rpm. After 6k it has 0 power, totally dies.

what state is st albans in?

You know what springs (stiffness) they come with? When you say coilovers do you mean the original strut with bilstein shocks and springs of some sort or an actual full bilstein coilover set? Might interested depending on the condition. You know how old or how many kms they've done?

If you do the turbo, change the waste gate spring so that it won't run much more than a few psi, you REALLY do not want to risk blowing up your motor. Optimally once the turbo stuffs its self you could just take the rear/front wheel out and drive it until you can afford to do nistune/exhaust/turbo/injectors/fuel pump all in one hit, otherwise you are going to risk popping your motor from leaning it out.

It is funny how every 10 pages the best oil to use changes. First it was motul, then it was chrono 300v, then it was royal purple, then something else now it is Sougi. Is there someone injecting information into this thread to get sales? I don't doubt they are good oils but it just looks funny (I just skimmed the last 20 pages and have read all the other before).

All good I got a mate to come around with his rattle gun and we figured it out. Was correct assuming that you the rack is a solid bar that spins, so I have to use two shifters, one to lock the other side and undo it that way. Car drives much better now without the rear end shaking, also means I should pass regency with no hassle. Thanks for the comments anyway!

No one else has removed their HICAS before? Could really do with some tips, don't feel like jacking it all up and f**king around to get no where again.

If they get enough of them they might do something, I'd like the mechanic who inspected my car to get some feedback however. Maybe if someone tells him he might look a bit harder next time and not waste someone elses time. I don't really expect them to do anything for my benefit, I just want some heads banged and hopefully some improvements. It can't hurt sending a letter.

This is what I considered but a friend of mine who had done it on a R33 said I should only need one shifter, unless of course R32s are substantially different. I didn't take the boot off the other one though so I couldn't see if it was spinning, will check that first if no one else has any other tips by tomorrow. Thanks.

My rear right HICAS arm ball joint is stuffed and has lots of play, I have bought a replacement and had a shot at replacing it tonight but got stuck. Basically I jacked the vehicle up popped the boot off the ball joint and got the shifter on the flat sides of it. Took a bit of a wrench but it cracked and I sat there turning it for ages. It was tight so I assumed I was undoing it but after 10 minutes it didn't seem to have really moved. Am I doing it wrong or is the pressure of the wheel holding the rod in there and there a trick to getting it undone? Cheers