Rolls

It was out of warranty anyway, but you could argue that with the tiny amount of use it had gone through it was unacceptable. There's lots of cases of items being replaced outside of warranty because the failure was deemed unreasonable. I had a second opinion here in Adelaide as well and the bloke I spoke to said even if it had no water supply and running at 20psi (I was running it at 10psi) that it should have lasted longer than it did.

Neither would I but I'm not planning on having kids in the next 15 years so I would be removing them after the inspection anyway.

Is the rivet to give it extra strength?

Yes but lightening can jump from a cloud to the ground so Im sure it can jump from a car to the ground. However lightening takes the path of least resistance, the metal in your car has far less resistance than your body so you wouldn't have any current travel though you. Once again the chassis is ground in your car so even if something shorted to the chassis it would just flatten your battery, you couldn't receive a shock from it.

Turns out my mate has the child seat anchors he removed to fit his speakers, will just borrow those. Thanks everyone anyway.

If I get just the anchors is it just a matter of drilling a hole and screwing a bolt through them? Or do the anchors have a bolt thread on them and need a threaded hole to screw into? I'll give all the import guys a call tomorrow.

Cool do you know what their name is? I guess I can call jap import spares and ask them.

I just took my car through regency for an engine swap inspection and VIC -> SA rego transfer and they failed me due to lack of rear eye level brake light and lack of child seat restraint anchors. Does anyone know where I could get the anchors installed? I imagine most compliancing workshops could do so, who would people recommend that are cheap? Also the brake light, I assume any light would really work, I can install it myself so I guess I just need to know where to buy one. Is this something sprint auto parts etc would sell? Or should I speak to the compliancing guys? I would ring around but everywhere is closed atm, looking forward to everyones suggestions. Thanks

Eye level brake light for R32 skyline. Basically any stick on light that is easily mounted would be great, I can wire it up no problems.

Oh also anyone know where I can get the child seat anchors and a rear eye level brake light? I can install the brake light myself so basically anyone who has a stick on one for sale would be tops.

My car just went through today for an engine swap and state rego transfer inspection (same as a defect basically). They picked me up for lack of child seat restraint anchors, need to get 3 of them installed. There is a hole in the drivers seat where the frame comes through, need to stitch this up. Spoiler had been removed so I had no eye level brake light. Need near wheel bearings for the rear as there was almost a centre meter of movement sideways, both front upper control arm bushes were fairly well worn as well. Not really that fussed, wheel bearings and bushes are something I would have done myself as they are pretty damn important. Child seat restraints is annoying as I will never ever use them, I guess ADRs are ADRs though, same goes for the hole in the seat, don't really know how this could ever hurt anyone, its not even uncomfortable. The brake light is fair enough though, I didn't realise that the spoiler had one in it. They didn't say anything about my engine swap, mods in the engine bay or chopped up inner wheel guards so I'm fairly happy as all of that stuff would be a pain in the ass to get around and fix.

I imagine you could run it via a virtual machine running xp/vista/w7. Virtual box is a great program, you could install XP in this, map your USB ports to the virtual machine and then run the software this way.

Completely forgot about this thread. Replaced the turbo a few months ago and the car blows zero smoke now. Funny that GCG denied it was their fault and said it was the tune of the car that destroyed it from overheating. I would imagine an oil seal leaking enough oil to blow smoke would quite possibly cause excess friction and overheat the bearing also. Oh well, all in the past now.

Non standard gear shifter knob? This a problem providing it is attached properly and not loose?

I have a question about battery vents, I realise that proper sealed ones do not require them but the cheaper type do. Now is this only if they are located in the boot in a box? Or is it if they are located in the engine bay as well? If so, where must the breather hose be attached to, just venting to atmosphere?

Brakes are sold.

Why would it cost more? Do you know what engineering means? A qualified engineer just looks at the relevant ADRs and make sure that the work has been completed in a saftisfactory way so that it is structurally sound and safe. If it meets all of these conditions and nothing needs to be done you are just paying for a few hours of research and inspection nothing more hence the low cost.

Luke why don't you like your chances? It will be expensive but it can definitely be done.

I would pay someone $150 to save me having to change all that shit, hell I'd pay someone to change it all back more than $150. All he is going to do is look at it on a hoist and verify that it is done properly so you might get away with even less than $150.

Front wheel arch liners, do they have to be there? One of mine is cut in half and the other is removed. Am I likely to be failed on this? I have no idea where I would get replacements from if so. All the wiring is out of the way and proper shielded so really all they are stopping is mud getting on the inside of the guard.

Nismoid maybe it has something to be with you having an admin account. Could you try making a new account or using someone elses and see what happens?

Very easy to add TPS functionality, initially I was planning to do this, I think it will be added on afterwards though.

No problem at all with the details, I work as an Electronic/Computer Systems engineer so I work with this stuff everyday. Whilst the method you mentioned would be very accurate I am happy with +-50rpm accuracy and a few ms delay on switching the solenoid as it does not need to be very accurate. Polling the RPM signal and then firing the IO pin to the mosfet should be effective enough. I might add a fudge factor to the rpm as well to account for any delay when firing the mosfet/solenoid/calculation time as you said you did. Thanks for the info though, appreciate it. Always good to find someone else who knows what they are talking about.

Crans what do you mean it will ground the VTC wire? Is the solenoid already wired to the battery and just needs the ground wire to be switched? I had just assumed it needed the active wire switched as it could just use any of the chassis for the ground, would save running two wires, I guess Nissan might have had their reasons if that is the way it is wired up though. Also using a 741 as a comparator that would certainly work but I am more of a software guy and this way I can easily add more features to the project.

Thanks for the suggestion GTRNUR on what config to use to drive the solenoid, I will definitely give that a shot. Do you know how many volts the solenoid needs to run? save me testing. Pulling the mosfet high via a digital IO pin will be much easier than using an opamp as well, will add all of that to the next board revision. With the RPM sensing that is definitely a possibility but as I want to keep it as low cost as possible and I want to be able to easily change rpm ranges. A DIP switch with a few pre set rpm points is the easiest way, however I could add some pots with an LCD or a COM port to set it that way. Leaning towards the DIP switches as there is unlikely to be much gain from changing the rpm points from standard much.