Rolls

Ok thanks for that, I'll give it a go in a week or so, never know I might get lucky. Got out of a 4 point $610 fine last time as the officer never sent in his half of the paper work, doesn't get much luckier than that! Been 2 years and I haven't heard anything.

If you are issued a speeding fine by an officer eg the blue paper, how long does it normally take to be entered into the system so that you can pay it online? As I received one just over a week ago but it says the fine is not available to be paid yet, meaning that it hasn't been entered in, how long have others had to wait? I remember I got a fine once that was never entered in and I got off scott free, but I think a week is too soon to be thinking that yet.

Just got out of a defect, was coming down freeway making big pops copper radaring pulled me over, he goes "that exhaust isnt standard" so pulled out my emissions test and certificate of exemption for modification including brake upgrade, engine swap from rb20 to rb25det neo etc, the previous defect inspection and everything they didn't find with the PASSED stamp and he goes "ok on your way then". Moral of the story do your car legally, or make it look legal so it passes an inspection.

tunnel run!

haha yeah I forgot a word.

No I didn't unfortunately, though they do come with pretty comprehensive flow tests from the factory, I can't see any reason why they would lie.

I wonder if we would have ever even heard of sougi without birds

Remember at the end of the day it is just oil, at $80 a change you could afford to replace your stock r32 motor every 37500kms instead. Gotta weight up how much it is actually worth spending on oil.

There are zero positives of atmo bovs.

You can get it for $59 if you shop around, worth it if you pay that much, if it is $89 etc then I would look around.

Something to remember is the turbo rear housing size makes a massive impact to exhaust volume, eg a GT3076 will be much louder than a stock/highflowed stock housing.

So it was just a fuse? If so you must not have checked ignition/fuel correctly, as it will only cut one of those out.

Yeah idling for 15 minutes is not a good idea at all, would barely warm it up, would get up to temp in 1-2 minutes of normal driving otherwise. Start it, wait 30 seconds then drive off staying off boost until temp is up. Smoke could be turbo seal or valve stem seals.

Just leave it permanently powered, you'll lose a bit of top end but the extra midrange makes it totally worth it.

5psi isn't much but the housing shouldn't be glowing red hot unless you were absolutely beating the hell out of it.

definitely drop exhaust, might have dropped a bolt down there and melted the cat

Looking at the ss2 dyno and having driven similar turbod cars I would say it is laggy by most peoples definition, laggy for it is though? no

Sounds like blocked exhaust/cat

How long between changes? that is probably more the issue if people are leaving it 6-8 months etc.

lol they serve their purpose, without them we would be driving buckets of shit everywhere, it annoys me when they take them over the top for bs things like that though

That is unfortunate, unlucky.

They charge $90 per seat at most places, why on earth would you pay that to essentially get two holes drilled?

Just to explain how a BOV works and why more boost pressure shouldn't make it more likely to leak, the BOV has a diaphragm with a spring in it, so you have boost pressure on one side of it (the intake) and then you have boost pressure + spring pressure on the other side holding it closed (via the vac line) So if you have 13psi running through your engine, you also have 13psi in the bov + spring pressure holding it closed, if you are running 25psi then you also have 25psi + spring holding it closed. So the more boost pressure you run, the more pressure is applied to keep it closed.

Got it fixed, was a coupled of problems, a) the AAC was seized and not responding, put a new one on and it made the idle more stable, but still was stumbling and doing weird shit. Eventually got it nice by just playing with the injector latency settings and then tweaking the mixtures down low, took them forever as it was very fiddly and just didn't want to idle nicely but now its pretty good, still pops occasionally but it is stable at ~750, doesn't hunt and comes back to idle nicely if you are on boost then immediately clutch in. I am not confident the problem has been fixed though, I just think it has been masked, as occasionally when driving it will stop the occasional pop and get even smoother and never pop, still I don't really care anymore as long as I can do skids and chirp 2nd.

If you could find out more that would be fantastic. I was told by a few workshops the manifolds were basically a bolt on job though. If the gaskets were off surely I would be having massive problems also?