Rolls

whups double post

Im doing the same with with a PIC (very similar to an AVR) you can get chips that convert a frequency signal into an analog voltage, will save you doing the counting in software and can just read the voltage with an AD module, might make it a bit simpler, that's how I plan to do it.

Recommend you look into some sort of device to read the revs and turn the VCT on and off, will add performance all through the midrange. I will be working on a product to do this exact thing in the coming weeks/month, but there are already devices out there that will do this.

Look on calaisturbo.com theres a massive thread on the XF TB installation and problems, like 30 pages massive, thats the best advice I can give you. They are mainly using rb30s but should be able to help you out. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=32673 There you go, found it.

Wont it have to be machined etc? what is that likely to cost?

Yep he was very helpful on the phone and seemed like a nice guy. I'm confident it will get sorted out, I've only ever heard good things about their turbos before, who knows it could be an exterior fault that caused it anyway.

gcg are pulling turbo apart as we speak.

Quite likely, I would still put it on a dyno, you don't want to pop your motor because its pinging/running lean/rich. Only cost you $50 or so.

I need an EPA test for my rb25 to pass regency, does anyone know where I would find the figures that it needs to reach to pass? Also if there is a procedure to follow for the test? Cheers.

Apexi super induction pod, standard AFM (not hooked up) with stock bendy piping, rb20 elbow going to rb20 compressor cover. Rb20 bov attached to r33 intake pipe venting back to intake via a rubber hose. Bov nipple attached to the standard location. Hybrid FMIC. Vented catch can Here is the only picture I can find, doesn't really show much.

Will do, I took it to Adelaide Turbo Services so I could get a quick opinion before sending it off as the bloke there knows his stuff and he was fairly stumped, he seemed to think that either the shaft was bent the tiniest bit from day one or something else strange had happened. It left today so should get to them sometime this week. Hopefully hear back from them early next week.

Yeah there was copper washers on my oil feed and oil drain, no thread tape anyway. The blokes down at gcg have always been very friends/helpful and nice on the phone so I'm confident they will find the problem and help me out.

Thanks for that. Will save me $80.

Ball bearing turbo and oil seems to pass through it with no problems. No shaft play, its just warped and off centre. It was set up exactly as the manufacturer specified. If thread tape had blocked the oil feed surely it wouldn't have lasted more than a few hours let alone 2500kms ?

Just because it can sense that much doesn't mean it knows what to do with the values. How do we know what the manafactures had in mind when they programmed the computer? If it exceeds load cells and the max pressure it expects to run it could just dump fuel and retard timing all over the board for a preset amount of time. There's no way to know.

Put the standard one back, itll flow something stupid like 600hp and wont have tps issues and be all or nothing like the XF ones seem to be. Theres a million threads about this already. Why do you want to run it?

It will but who knows what the max level the stock map sensor can handle? Its probably reaching load points its not meant to and running wrong size injectors etc. I'd be betting the stock computer is just going wtf and not knowing what to do.

Get a highflowed stock turbo eg a GCG or slide (depends how much cash you have) you mentioned the HKS turbo so you can afford the gcg. That way it looks stock and you don't have to modify as much. Also if you try and max the 3037 out I don't know how long your motor will last if its still got the original bearings etc. Keep the standard intake and get either a R34 sidemount of a FMIC. I'd then organise some aftermarket ECU or some way to tune the setup, a clutch to handle the power and maybe a diff/rims if you are still running stock ones. edit: oh yeah if you have stock suspension Id personally be fixing this, the clutch, diff, rims etc first before seeking more power.

Just run your stock one vented to atmosphere if you want some more noise, the stock ones sound alright plumbed back with a pod even. The one you just installed probably is possibly faulty or its not getting a proper vac signal, I'd run the vac line from the manifold not the air filter as the pressure isn't going to be the same there. The closer to the throttle body the vac line is the better. Why not just extend the vac line the stock bov uses ? Will rule that out as an issue

Get an aftermarket ECU and tune it properly? Of course its not going to run properly. It would be expecting the tiny turbo to be on boost much sooner so thats probably why its overfueling down low. Could be running lean on boost as well. Seriously get it tuned with a copgy back fuel controller or a full ecu asap before you break it.

Price drop $100

Hey what about side indicators guys? do you need them? My R32 came from VIC and was registered/complied and it only has the bulging side indicators from the headlight assembly, nothing specifically mounted on the side. I've heard VIC are more lax about compliance etc than SA but will I pass a regency inspection without them?

I had a brand spankers gcg highflow on my rebuilt rb25det. Now it had a series1 rb25det rear housing that was milled out and a rb20det front cover. The car occasionally blew some smoke on cold start if you accidentally boosted it but I never found the cause. Was running about 10psi and making roughly 200kw as it was waiting for a full power tune. I was driving it one night and it suddenly made a VERY loud whirring noise so I immediately throttled off, I then drove home slowly, at one point the noise went away so I reved it to about 3k and I believe the bearing seized as it made no boost, the car refused to rev and it had no power. Once again I throttled off and babied it home around 1500 rpm. About 30 seconds later it un-seized and started making the horrid whiring noise. Once home I removed the turbo, upon inspection the shaft was twisted/bent and the compressor blades had made very slight contact with the housing, there was no oil to be seen in the front or rear of the turbo, however plenty came out of the oil feed along with coolant from the coolant feed. I started the motor with no exhaust and did an oil flow test, got about 400ml out the oil feed in approx 15 seconds at idle so thats about 1.6L per minute of oil the turbo was getting, ample according to Adelaide Turbo Services. Now there was zero sign of foreign material ingestion and the bearing still seemed ok and it would spin alright, I'm not sure if it was the blades touching the housing that stopped it free spinning for more than a second or the bearings were shot. Now I am sending the turbo off to GCG for inspection and to see if it will be covered under warranty. I would open it up and look at the bearings to see if they are blue and cooked from oil starvation but I don't want to void my warranty. What could cause a problem like this? Providing it was getting adequate water and oil and it had a good tune, how could the shaft warp itself and cause the impeller to hit the housing? The only things I can think of are an impossibly small manufacturer defect (if it lasted 2500kms theres no way their balancing machines would pick it up) which caused the shaft to slowly get worse and worse over 2500kms or contaminated oil making the bearing f**k out. Oh also the car had had an oil change about 800kms prior to the failure with fully synthetic mobil 1 oil and there was zero (visual) evidence of bearing material in the oil. It is being sent off to brett at gcg tomorrow for a full inspection and report, I really hope it is covered under warranty as a new shaft, impeller and bearing will be at least $1500. Also the use of a the rb20det front cover, will that restrict the top end power much? Is it just a smaller inlet or a smaller overall cross sectional area? Cheers guys and wish me luck

All good, hope they turn up soon.

Looks like it is missing very badly. Does it just drop in power dramatically? or does it pop and fart around at those dips in the power graph ? I would be checking the earths, sparkplugs, ignitor module, coil packs if it is missing. If it is jsut dropping in power check the fuel pump, is the computer retarding the ignition something shocking for some reason, how is it being tuned? Intercooler pipes sucking shut, boost leak? Does it run really rich when these dips happen, weird noises? need more information dude.