Rolls

Make sure to do several dyno runs, one at 25,50,75 and 100% throttle and note the cross over points, put the change over at the mid point of all 4 cross overs. Another option is to set up a 2 dimensional VCT activation mode, eg TPS (throttle position) and RPM to get he maximum effect. I do not know if PFCs allow you to create custom 2D maps from two inputs to control an output though. Certainly be interesting to know your results if you do do this though.

Are the breather hoses (plug into the cam covers) plumbed into your intake or your catch can? If so then your motor is probably getting on and breathing a bit of oil, hence the oil in the intake. Get a catch can that vents back into the intake, this way you will stop the motor burning the oil. Also RBs tend to get a lot of oil in the head if you keep them at high revs for a long time.

Look for a forged motor already built from a reputable company, sometimes people build up a motor and run out of cash or something f**ks up and they ahve to sell it. Can save heaps that way. Or maybe even buy a whole car with a built rb26 in it, take the motor out and sell the car. Will cost you maybe 5-10k but will get you a motor worth 10-15k.

Did you do a skid at any time? Copper probably saw you rev out a gear or two at one stage then followed you, that's what usually happens. Also why I avoid driving friday and saturday nights, just too risky.

$300 if ithas shaft play ? I'm in SA can pick up.

Need 4 tyres with good treads in 205x55x16 (or is stock size x50?) for an R32 GTST to pass inspection. I already have rims with tyres but they are crap. Can someone supply me with tyres or rims+tyres for loan or to buy for cheap? Would even consider trading my rims for yours + cash if thats easier. Let me (Roland) know on <removed>, need them by wednesday next week, cheers guys

Turbo timer with loom plug, has ability to be disabled by releasing the hand brake for security, can auto detect time, or use a pre set. Very easy to use and has an adjustable front so you can move it up and down. http://www.nengun.com/ultra/full-auto-timer Model 4753 of this, identical functionality just different button layout. Will deliver AUS wide for $120 or the nearest offer. It has RED lighting. Contact Roland on 0423 277 771 or send me a PM on here.

Why is that? I've had lots of recommendations and just about every name has had someone PM me and tell me a horror story. I'm quite confused with who to go to.

Yep will just cook the air if I go to 25psi from what Ive heard, I think theres oil problems with the turbo atm though so Im looking into that before I start smashing boost out of it. Think the oil seal is leaking into the exhaust housing. What would I look for, I mean its already going to be black as f**k, are there any obvious signs its leaking oil if I take the dump pipe off?

I spoke to gcg and they said the turbo wont make any more power after 20psi with the standard internal gate. The tuners I've spoken to think 12-12.5 is safe if you watch the egts and knock.

rb25det rebuilt with forged pistons, gcg highflow, z32 afm, gtr injectors, rising rate regulator, nistune. Going to get it tuned with stock afm (basic safe tune) to get through regency, then go the z32 and go all out, looking around 18-20psi and keeping the tune safe.

The paper gasket around the top and sides, since covering it in high temp sealant it hasn't leaked though.

I've done some ringing around of the big tuners in other states and asked them to do some research for me regarding whos the best in SA. Two of them both mentioned Brett at APE, from the website looks like they mainly do highpower XR6 turbos and the like. I'm waiting to hear back from Brett so I can discuss with him cost and how he goes about it but thought I'd ask for any opinions here. If they are bad to avoid thread being closed due to VV please PM them to me. Cheers

We thought it was the front crank seal but when we took the timing belts etc all off we found it was clean as, not a drop on it and the oil appeared to be coming from the oil pump housing. Being as we didn't fancy dropping the sump to remove the oil pump assembly allowing removal of the housing, we put high temp iron oxide sealant all around the edges of the housing. I just checked and it hasn't leaked yet but it has only been one day, might only last a week. Is there any way to replace the gasket without dropping the sump? It looks like even if you unbolt it the regulator will stop you removing it (which is in the sump itself). Any ideas people? Really dont want to have to drop the sump and f**k around with the oil pump pickup and everything.

Put the motul 8100 in it, more expensive but better oil.

I had a cop do that once so I just slowed down as well and eventually when we were doing 20 I just stopped lol. He drove off.

With the work I do this is a piece of piss. I do it for a hobby, I get satisfaction out of making something myself. Same reason some people build cars instead of buying one already completed for half the price. The jaycar item does not work exactly for this purpose either, it will be more complicated to use.

Initially I will hard code it in software what throttle percentage and rpm range to turn it on/off at. Eg stock as stock. Then will add features to adjust lower,upper ranges and tps setting.

Thats cool, I'm more after the voltage ranges and waveforms of the tacho signal and the TPS signal. So basically I can translate volts or hz to rpm and volts to throttle percentage. I can meter this out myself once I get my stock ecu + nistune installed but I have a wolf in there atm so it's a bit more difficult. Anyway looks like theres already stuff on the market if people want this now. I will still make my design and maybe put the design on the net so people can DIY on the cheap for ~$15. See how we go anyway.

I will enquire about this, thank you.

Either way I can still build one for under $10 so I will probably do it myself as I do stuff like this everyday for my job (I find it fun), but it wouldn't be worth selling it for less than $50. So maybe look into this if you guys want something now.

Its ok I've got 100s of projects written for PICs. I coded up a solution in an hour last night, this is the easy part, just need to figure out the input waveforms and whether I need op amps to transform them into a useful range, this is more where i need help, the electronics side. Ill post up a schematic soon with some source code so people can see what I'm trying to do with the data.

I'm open to volunteers that have equipment already running that I can test with. Basically be nice to have an already wired up VCT so that I can measure voltages and waveforms etc, hell if anyone has electronics/programming experience we can make this a group project. I'm in Adelaide so PM me if you think you could help out.

I'm making something to get around this problem, there are also several solutions on the market which will already do it but are fairly expensive from what I've read. Certainly don't rule the VCT out with a nistune, it is just a solenoid that needs to be powered, theres a lot devices with external outputs that could turn it on/off. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Vc...78#entry4868578

Excellent news, thank you.