Rolls

Think there is already some products out there that can do this but they arent cheap. I will keep this thread updated. I wrote the code to do it last night, but need to design the hardware and get my actual ECU so I can meter out the waveforms on an oscilloscope before I can really make something. Should have an update in a week or two. Interesting to hear you have already played with it. I think I will aim for a basic model at first that just has static timing the same as stock, eg 30% throttle and 1500-5000 rpm it is switched on, however I should be able to easily make a model that you can vary the upper and lower rpm, along with the throttle percentage, just that it probably won't be that useful if we find that the stock variables work best everytime.

Oh sup mitch, yeah I might have to borrow that in the coming weeks. Champion, I'll send some beer your way.

I'm a computer systems engineer so myself and a friend are going to create a module for my rb20 ecu + nistune that runs an rb25det to switch on the VCT solenoid. We will work on an experimental design over the next few months (not difficult but need to find time) that will switch the VCT solenoid on from 1500-5000rpm (stock range). The board will tap into the tacho pin out on the ECU and then via a little PCB turn on the VCT at the appropriate range. We will implement two pots to allow changing the upper and lower ranges of the VCT so you can turn it on from say 2000-4000rpm or whatever, allowing you to experiment on the dyno to find what works best for you. So basically it will turn on when you have some throttle open (eg tps is measuring something, don't need to advance the cam when you are idling or backing off throttle) and when the tacho pin is in range. Now I am going to do this for myself no matter what as I want to see how useful it is, but if there is interest we would probably sell a proper PCB in a box for ~$50-60 with instructions. I've spoken to Shaun at boostworx and he thinks the VCT is good for 5-10kw in the mid range when enabled. Now this is purely an idea at the moment, I will work on some schematics tonight and see how easily it can be done, and how the RPM out pin works on the RB20 ECUs to see how hard it will be to do. So people, anyone interested in one if we make it?

Need to get in contact with him by tomorrow morning, does anyone on here that knows him have his mobile number? It's regarding an ECU he has for sale that I desperately need by tomorrow, if you have it could you possibly PM it to me? If you aren't comfortable giving out his number could you please tell him to call Roland on <removed> regarding his rb20 ecu? He has this avatar if that jolts anyone's memory Cheers

As the title says will R33 GTS-T callipers (296x30mm) and rotors bolt on and fit under stock R32 rims on an R32 without needing any modification? Cheers guys

Carbon canisters. Mine is cracked and not connected but it is in the right place, do you need these to pass a regency inspection? I can run a hose from it and just stuff it somewhere in the mess in my engine bay but would be handy to know if it is needed, if so how much do they go for second hand?

Did they cover it under warranty? and if so how long was the turn around from taking it off to putting it back on?

I wonder when they will implement external outputs from the nistune. If it can do all the stuff they can, surely they can set triggers for certain events etc.

The phone was crackling at the end and he said it was a high soap engine and that will wash the bores so to use mineral. I assume he meant the oil (fully synth) was high soap content? I am going to do as he says and leave the mineral oil in there until it gets dyno tuned anyway. So yeah re the turbo smoke issue what do you guys think? I will be sending GCG an email tonight and see what they have to say.

Need an RB20 silvertop ECU asap, no loom, just the box, I won't be checking this thread so could you please call me on <removed> or PM me with price that would be amazing. Also need a nistune for it, I am planning on getting this separately but if you have the lot that would be even better. Thanks guys

Just got off the phone from the engine builder (rob sabbadin from sabbadin automotive) and he said the clearances are 3thou so there should be zero smoke even when cold. I've since looked in the catch can (basically empty) and pulled the intake piping off and it is full of oil, now theres no possible sources of oil apart from the turbo, the other possibility is leaking valve stem seals but the owner spent $900 on getting the head reconditioned. He talked to me a lot about the motor and was very adamant that it was built with tight tollerances and was certainly not a sloppy build. He however suggested that the motor still needs to be run on mineral oil to make sure that it runs in properly, even after 2200kms which I am a bit dubious about, said the mobil 0w-40 oil I have will be too thin and that I should use a 15w-40 fully synth. However I'm thinking it is most likely that a seal in the brand new gcg turbo that is leaking? Any idea which one and how hard it would be to fix? The turbo is only 2200kms old so I'm sure it is under warranty, I just don't fancy removing it and sending it interstate.

And that is the major problem, how do you determine a good tuner from a bad? Most people don't have the knowledge to tell themselves and a tuner certainly isn't going to say 'Im an average tuner'. I'm really up in the air about who I should get in SA to tune my car.

Hmm I've dropped the car off at boostworx. Maybe I will go pick it up (they haven't done anything yet) and do some more research and be 100% about what I should be tuning it with and who I should get to do it. Really is a headf**k finding a good tuner and knowing what ECU to use. Really is hard to sort the good tuners from the bad tuners. Everyone has a different story about what ECU to use as well, like I'm talking 100% completely opposite opinions from well respected people. Being as I have to go through regency and need the stock ECU I think the nistune really can't be that bad an option to go with though.

What sort of duty of care would you expect from a workshop tuning your car? Eg you take your car in to get tuned and you expect to get it back with a better tune. Lets say they ramp up the ignition and dont listen for knock and pop your motor. You obviously cannot prove that they did this and they can blame it on a poorly made motor etc. What sort of liability do they have and what would be reasonable to request when taking a car in for a tune so that you aren't left with a popped motor and no reimbursement? I mean lets say you do the obvious things like looking for a reputable workshop with no known horror stories, inquire into what sort of knock detection they use and be insistent on a safe street tune however your motor still goes pop. Is there any legal course of action that could leave you with some form of reimbursement, or are you basically shit out of luck? I have no reason not to trust the workshop I am going to but I would like be as cautious as possible, not to mention I would love to learn more about the tuning process so I will ask if I can hang around for some of it. Are tuners likely to go along with this?

Yeah I bought a car from interstate (Im in SA) and it expires in about 3 weeks, should be able to get it through the inspection by then but a few extra months would make it easier, seller is going overseas in a few months so hes not willing to leave a car potentially in his name whilst he is overseas, happy to do it for 3 months if that is possible though. Might just suggest I put a full year on the car and that he cancels it before he leaves or as soon as he is uncomfortable with it whether or not I've got it regged in SA yet.

Is this possible for the average joe without a concession card, if so what sort of requirements do they have to be elligible for this? I can't see anything on the vicroads website apart from having a concession card. Cheers

Yeah that's what I'm thinking, the wolf doesn't offer me any features that make the lack of sequential injection worth it and the fact it is defectable.

I already have a wolf3d V4 in my r32 with a 25det + gcg highflow. Now what is going to be easier to tune and give the better tune overall? I realise buying a 20det ecu and nistune plus starting the tune from scratch is probably going to creep towards $1000 but I can get at least $500 for the wolf ecu. If I stick with the wolf ecu I will only need 2-3 hours dyno time ($300 ish) to get the tune tidied up (already has been tuned for 220kw run in tune) but it is not going to be as fuel efficient or idle as well, the reason being the stock ecu has fully sequential injection where as the wolf has to run batch mode (fires 2 injectors at once). What would you guys do for a car in the 240-260kw range that is daily driven? Not to mention I have to go through regency (defect inspection) in the near future so I will need a stock ecu, the 20det ecu with a nistune will help me out here.

Mines a wolf3d V4 so it would have to run injectors in batch mode, that means you have 2 injectors firing at one time hence wasted fuel etc so I doubt it would pass as easily as a V400. Not to mention I only have about $1800 to spend on getting power tune, passing epa test and getting gtr brakes. If I run out of cash that means my VIC rego will expire and I can't drive the car until I get more cash to finish everything, kind of why Im leaning towards nistune as it will be cheaper and I can then sell the wolf.

I've got an R32 with a rebuilt rb25det, gcg highflow making 220kw at a 6k rev limit due to the fresh rebuilt. IT IS A HANDFUL ALREADY, when I get it tuned it should make 250kw+ and rev to 7.5k. It is ridiculously responsive and makes great power by 3k, you do not need a 3L unless you are aiming for big stupid power and personally anything much over 230kw on the street is stupid power. If you do get more than this and haven't had a solid few years with 150kw-200kw cars you WILL wrap it around a tree or kill yourself. Starting with a 25 and a highflow + supporting mods (ecu, injectors, fuel pump, clutch) will set you back maybe $6k and will keep a stupid grin on your face for ages. If you already have a 31 just turbo the single cam motor, thatll make a solid 150-200kw with loads of response. Probably be more fun than a standard 25det even.

read more before you start forking out, basically all the info you need is already here. 200kw with response = stock 25 with stock turbo. 250kw with response = stock 25 with a gcg highflow. Then when it blows up build your rb30 because you will be armed with a lot more experience and knowledge, that and you will know how to drive a car with some power.

I am considering using an rb20 ecu with nistune instead now, as I doubt that plus the tune will cost me more than $1k and I should be able to sell the wolf for $500+ The reasoning here is I am not gaining any functionality from the wolf, not to mention it doesn't have 6 injector drivers. I realise that if the time is put into it it will be as good as the stock ecu, but what is the point? Also if I use a remapped stock ecu I then fix the problem of passing regency with an aftermarket ecu. The 20 ecu wont be able to run the VCT but neither can the wolf. Thoughts? Also the stock rb20 AFM, will that be good for 250kw? or does it max out below that?

Cheers for this, I will ask my tuner about it and if he can do that. How much worse for economy is batch injector setups vs proper fully sequential from an ECU with 6 injector drivers?

Been flogging it since I got it and it barely blows a wiff now.The oil level on the dipstip hasn't moved either back 1000kms ago when it was blowing a bit of smoke.

Looks like you've had those R33 turbo brakes for a while, will you send to Adelaide for $500? seen sets with new slotted DBA rotors and the rear set for $550 total