Rolls

Is a hyper gear high flow anything at all like a gcg highflow though? Very nice dyno curve, I'm excited : D

Did you really need to bump it though?

Nice I had a look in the dyno thread and looks like people are pulling about 250rkw with that kind of boost starting to taper off at 7k. What power does yours make and where does it start to drop off ? I agree it is a lovely turbo to be able to make that sort of power but still drive around like a stock rb25 in the low revs, soon as you get any boost it is much quicker.

I've got a gcg highflow on a series 1 rb25det (rebuilt with forged pistons etc) how much boost should I be trying to pump out of this turbo? I've heard they are good for 18psi on a 25, will it make more power if I go higher? or is this the limit with the internal wastegate? Just going to be using a cheap bleed valve. Also with stock cams where will the power start to drop off, I've had a look at the dyno thread but it is a bit hard to tell, I get the feeling around 7k though? Cheers.

Since giving the motor hell on the drive back and the last few days it barely blows any smoke at all, few wiffs at startup if you accidentally boost it. Should I dump the mineral oil now and put this Mobil 1 0w-40 fully synthetic oil I got for free off my mate? Or should I leave the run in oil in a bit longer? It is going in for full power tune on 18psi on Wednesday the 7th.

How much do we have to donate to remove the PM restrictions? I have been a member on here long enough, surely members like us should just get the restrictions removed I mean waiting a whole bloody hour to send more than 1 PM? that's just insane, 10 minutes maybe but not 1 hour. I think there should be a thread where users that have been here at least a year and have substantial posts can apply to have the restrictions removed, users that are under say 3 months or have bugger all posts have to pay. If it is only $5 I will donate it, can someone point me in the right direction?

Interesting, well I guess as long as I am firm about what I want with him that reliability and a safe tune is far more important than power he will do his best, especially if I offer to pay for an extra hour for him to make sure it is 100%.

Yeah I've got the stock bov just don't know where it plumbs into in the stock location, I've posted a thread up asking for engine bay photos showing how it plumbs in but no one replied.

Even after listening to ovrtym33 story and a few others I'm still going to go to boostworx. Dohmar you never know the previous owner might have asked for a knife edge tune to put a smile on the sellers face? I'm going to be very direct with what kind of tune I want, nice and lean on cruise for economy and a rich very safe tune for the big revs + boost.

I have a metal plate with a gasket blocking off my stock bov on my car, will this pass or does the stock bov have to be in place? and if so where does the outlet pipe on the bov plumb into? ta

Cheers, I will have a look soon.

Yep that's exactly it, I cut the top and front section off with secateurs, the rest is still screwed in though so it isn't going to fall out.

What is the wiring mod? I am too lazy to go check if the plug fits right now, is there an extra earth wire or something? Anybody got a schematic comparing the two ?

How many wires are the plugs? I will go down to jaycar and make up a new one if it turns out I have a series 2. What is the obvious way to tell the difference between a series 1 and series 2 RB25DET? I remember someone saying something about the ignitor module, mine looks the same as the one on a 20det if that helps.

If you have removed your front inner guards will the car still pass? I've cut the front half off both of mine (still covers the wiring) but it no longer covers the intercooler piping as it would scrub on my rims. Going in with stock rims. Will this be ok?

I assume they are or they at least have different plugs, can someone confirm this?

True story, boostworx is the only place I haven't heard a bad story about yet so I am going to stick with them I think. Guy seems really honest and nice as well when I've spoken to him before which I think is important, spoken to some apparently good tuners before that just come across as total spanners.

I've had mates cars tuned there and they have all left very unhappy, had to go back 2-3x to get the tune right and pay each time, even after that the AFR was still all over the place, you could tell as it would blow black smoke randomly at certain revs. Rang shaun at boostworx and Im going to get him to tune it, never heard a bad story from him.

Wolf3D V4 I think.

I have a fresh forged rb25 with a gcg highflow that is run by a wolf 3d that needs a tune, I am located in Adelaide and I want a tuner that has tuned lots of cars with this ECU. I am going to call boost worx tomorrow but I've heard Shaun is more a powerFC, nistune tuner, so if anyone knows any other wolf3D tuners out there that would be great. Cheers

I have a dilemma. I need to pass an SA pits inspection (regency) where they will only pass the car if it has a stock ECU. The car in question is an R32 with a forged RB25, GTR injectors, custom fuel rail, magna flow fuel regulator, gcg highflow turbo and a Wolf 3d that uses a MAP sensor and no AFM. Now the plan is to just remove the entire intake manifold and swap it with a mates (taking the fuel reg, injectors, fuel rail etc with it), put the stock AFM back and the stock ECU. The car will then be babied to the pits and inspected hopefully pass providing everything else is up to scratch. Now being as I need a power tune on the fresh motor would I be better off getting a stock RB20 ecu and getting a nistune installed to run all of this gear and just set a low rev limit/air flow cut for when I change the intake/fuelling and then remove it when I put it all back on. OR should I get the full power tune with the wolf3d (heard they are pretty shit to tune compared to a PFC or a nistune remap) and then swap everything back over and baby it to the pits again? Cliffs: rb20 ecu + nistune pros: better tune safer when I drive to the pits and will pass epa etc easily (can have a real lean idle map temporarily) possibility it will pass inspection without removing parts? (will regency accept a shiny fuel reg rail and injectors?) cons: have to swap everything still more expensive and f**king around as it will need some sensors/loom changed wolf3d pros: only have to pay for tune as I already have all the bits cons: worse tune still have to swap everything but no changing of sensors or loom (apart from afm which is easy) What do you think guys? Is the tune on a nistune going to be that much better than that of a wolf? The wolf seems to run great apart from a slightly lumpy idle but everyone seems to bash them.

Cheers nismoid, when I say chatter I mean very very minimal chatter, if you weren't trying to listen for it you wouldn't hear it and as soon as it is warm it sounds like a stock motor. Motor is amazingly responsive and torquey so even if it isn't the tighest motor ever its f**king amazing compared to my 20 year old rb20det I had As far as the full tune I believe it has had a proper tune, just only at 12psi and a bit richer, when the seller (builder told him this) said full tune he meant bump it up to 18psi and sure it is running well at this. What is roughly the maximum psi the GcG highflow should be running on a rb25, I'm assuming they don't release a compressor map for this turbo? When I get it tuned for whatever the maximum flow this turbo can handle, what sort of rev limit should I be getting set, 7k? 7.5k? I will ask the tuner but be interesting to know what you guys think, the gears are way too short with the 6k rev limit at the moment and it seems to really start pulling at 6 so I'd think it would make good power all the way to 7.5k With warming up my procedure is to start the motor, wait 30 seconds for oil pressure to come up and circulating then drive off very slowly, revs around 2.5k with absolutely minimal load for about 5 minutes. Sounds like all is good, I will do a service on it tomorrow with some good quality fully synthetic oil, probably elf or motul depending on what is available. There is a small leak coming from the front of the engine as well, maybe 6-8 drops over night can be seen the next morning, I've had a looked at it seems to be coming from the front of the sump. What seals could these be, cam seal, is there a front main seal ?? or anything else that could leak? Going to pull the CAS and timing cover off this weekend and figure out what seal it is, then replace it hopefully. Oh and no I am in SA, I did buy the car from VIC however.

I guess it wasn't run in optimally then, I've been giving it a fair bit of hell, varying loads etc since I've got it so is this the best way to do it?

Was built by sabbadin automotive in Victoria, they did all the work. The previous owner drove it very sedately for around 1600kms from what he told me, he seemed like a very honest bloke so I have no reason to doubt him. One the drive home vic-> sa we did about 700kms and we varied the driving a lot, cruising at 4k, a few 4th gear runs to 6k and varied the load around town. It really is hardly any smoke at all and will only blow it once maybe twice, after that it is fine. If you start it warm it doesn't blow anything either. It definitely doesn't breathe under load when driving and is very smooth/quiet once warm as well so that was my conclusion, that the clearances were slightly too large. I might ring up sabbadin tomorrow and request all the specs of the rebuilt just for my own knowledge.

I have just taken delivery with this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Eo...ts-t285533.html The RB25 has Arias forged pistons, Arp head studs and new bearings etc, gcg highflow and is roughly 2200kms old now. Now when cold it has a very slight chatter which I've been led to believe is completely normal for forged pistons, as this is due to the increased clearance between the cylinder wall and the piston. Now the first few minutes if I accidentally get it on boost (1-2psi not much) it will blow a very small amount of blue oil smoke, as the pistons have not yet warmed up and theres still a gap I assume this is relatively normal? It currently has 15-50w mineral oil in it but I am planning on putting some fully synthetic 5w-40 in it soon. It only blows the smoke once, after this and once it is warm it runs beautifully and doesn't chatter or blow smoke. This should be nothing to worry about providing I warm the motor up before boosting it yes? The idle is also slightly rough, not as if it is missing just more like it has a cam (which I'm quite sure it doesn't). Now with mantaining a forged motor, what are some things I should do to make sure I look after it. Does it require longer to warm up than a standard motor? and is synthetic 5w-40 quality oil (mobil, elf, motul etc) acceptable to use in it providing I change it every 5000kms. The car is a daily driven car and will see occasional track action and I just want to know if there is anything I should be doing differently than I would with a standard motor. Oh also it currently has a run in tune with a rev limit of 6k and is running about 12psi making ~220kw as it now has 2200kms on the clock would it be safe to take it in for a full power tune with 18psi and a 7.5k rev limit? It has all the appropriate fueling to handle the gcg highflow turbo Cheers everybody.