Rolls

Motul 8100 is only $59, also have a look for this.

Grid is unrealistic and shitty. If you want to drift download Live For Speed.

Its the best way to learn, its as simple as replacing batteries in your remote. In fact even easier, you can't put it in back to front! Just google a tutorial, or some pictures of your motherboard (manual even?) you really can't go wrong.

When I put 'better' oil in my 300km aus r31 (RB30E) it made it make horrid noises from the top end. Dumped the oil out and put some $15 20w50 in it and it fixed it up. I guess it really depends on the life the engine has had.

Haha I thought so, was just making sure that no one got the wrong idea. On another note something I did notice when I used shell 5-30w was that it leaked quite a bit of oil daily from various seals, the motul 8100 5-40 still leaks a bit but no where near as bad, doesn't burn as much as well. My car blows smoke if you load it up for the first minute when its cold (I try and avoid this) its not loads of smoke but I can see it from the rear vision mirror. Should I consider going a slightly thicker oil? or am I better off just accepting that its an old motor and will burn some oil and change more frequently? (Redtop rb20det with apparently 120k on it.)

in all gears including neutral with the clutch out, clutch in it goes away almost instantly. Varies with revs.

Are you taking the piss? the only difference you'd notice from those two oils is one might make leaks slightly better/worse and oil consumption might be different.

Start doing skids everywhere.

Input shaft possibly, mines f**king up atm as well. Sounds pretty metallic.

Done a leak down and compression test? Maybe something simple like a fuel blockage?

I got it done with my major service, think it would just $50 added on. It wasn't really a rebuild he just pulled it apart greased it up and put it back together and it worked fine. You'd probably be up for $100 if you paid someone to do it by itself though. Any mechanic that knows his stuff should be able to do it. Shop around.

I got my starter motor rebuilt, I use motul 8100 xcess 5w40 fully synthetic.

There's a search button for a reason, all of these questions have been answered before.

Whilst you had a point, now you are just shit stirring.

100% synthetic also doesn't mean it actually is synthetic. Have a read of this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/go...ils-t22458.html Re: the problem, I had a similar horrible grating crunch noise when I first started my engine, was the starter motor not disengaging properly. Also 25w50 in a GTR, jesus. Get some decent 5w40 fully synthetic in there.

Sounds like something loose rattling, don't think its your turbo or it would get a hell of a lot louder when you boost it.

SOF2 > SOF3

Yeah I can't take credit for it, I just copy pasted from the thread.

What sort of rpm were you revving it to? edit: it appears 8850! Lol.

As long as you don't obviously damage anything or cause it to break due to something you have done they still have to honour their warranty. The warranty void if removed stickers don't mean shit.

When we say 5/10-40 we mean a true fully synthetic as well, eg motul or redline. Possibly royal purple, I haven't done any reading on their oils though, can someone confirm? Also I think it would be great if someone could edit the first post (admin) with a list of oils and their classification eg semi-synth fully-synth group IV etc. edit: I've compiled some basic facts about oil ratings and a list of some of the common brands and their ratings, I'm going to report the first post and see if an admin can edit this information into it as I think it would help with a lot of the repeated questions. If there's anything that could be added or changed post it up. When choosing oils the better the rating, generally the better the oil, and also the more expensive. Keep in mind even the Group II oils are probably still better then any oil that was made when your car was manufactured. Basic explanation of ratings Group I - mineral Group II/II+ - hydrocrak (VI below 120) Group III - hydrocrack (VI above 120, mineral derive "Fake Synthetic") Group IV - polyalphaolefin (man made Synthetic) Group V - Ester & other un-group fluid (Ester or Polyolester, super high grade Synthetic, good for aircraft jet engine). Common products and their ratings. Redline (Group V Polyester) Motul 300V (Group V) Motul 8100 E-Tech 0W40 (Group IV/V Blend) Mobil 1 (Group IV) Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 (Group IV) ~$59 - one of the best value Castrol SynTec 0w30 (Group III) Castrol Edge Sport 5w30 or 10w60 (Group III) Motul 4100 Turbolight (Group II?) Keep in mind that the 100% synthetic stickers mean jack, just means that the oil is at least Group III. As far as viscosity ratings go, this depends entirely on what temperature range your car is going to be used in and your driving style (track or street car) A decent read through this thread should help you answer that. As far as oil filters go, get a genuine nissan one if you don't want to spend much, these are superior to ryco/cooper.

You need a dual head video card, but from what I remember those optiplexes only take half size video cards so you may not be able to easily find something cheap that will do it.

5-40

I've got 2gb of ram and agree it really is nice, however is it noticeable better with 4gb? I'm considering upgrading but only if it will net better performance.

I'm not disagreeing, but why is it so dangerous? Surely your engine would be expecting it to be fully open eventually (if it did fail) anyway?