Rolls

rb30 would help more and be cheaper.

You spoken to the people who built it?

Better post a vid with some noise of this motor when its done, is going to sound unreal.

Or buy one with an already rebuilt motor, or buy one with a popped stocker motor with the plan to rebuild it. No gambling this way, know what you are getting.

How low is your car?

The volume is all about the muffler, the pipe diameter doesn't have that much to do with it. I've personally got a straight through 2.5" with a straight through muffler that doesn't really do anything. Not that droney just sounds mean and loud.

its Pi*r^2 so its not simply double. Twin 2" will flow almost as much as a 3", where as twin 2.25 will flow slightly more, flow goes up exponentially as you increase the radius.

Similar thing happened to my HR31, I removed the inner guard (taped and tied the cables up) and attacked the inside of the lip with a hammer. Result: no more scrubbing. Even with more camber if its only happening on hard lock the tyre is still going to be sticking out the guard a fair bit so it may not help at all. However more camber will help with handling so it can't hurt to try.

More info mate, what motor and do you plan to mod it in the future?

"motul 8100 5w-40 or so?" Thats what I use.

Yeah it is but they are definitely stiffer then standard. Maybe I wrote down the measurements wrong, Ill double check.

Coil ID = 146mm Wire OD = 12 mm # of Coils = 5 turns Spring rate = ? Esplier springs apparently.

Doesn't it sooting up mean its doing its job though ?

With factory cars that do it they keep the valves open, as if you just turn the injectors off you will still have mechanical loses from compressing air. It will also run incredibly lumpy and probably not idle properly. Basically dont bother unless you feel like engineering a head that can force the valves open.

Thinner the oil means less friction which means less wear. However if you are a worn motor with poor tolerances I would agree. Also if your car sees extreme temperatures on the track.

Lots of people have made very powerful RB30ETs but a det sounds nicer, makes more power and is all round a better motor. As for carby you'd have to get something custom and would cost a lot of money.

Now I'm not going to name names as that would be classed as a VV. I'll just say the first company is a few drift kids who think they know what they are doing and the 2nd company is a race trans/diff place that has been in business for a long time. PM me if you want to know details, I'm located in SA. Ok to start with I have a HR31 skyline with a Longnose R200 diff, to my knowledge it was a stock clutch pack LSD, it was not noisy or clunking at the time it was just open wheeling badly. Now I've heard of people successfully just 'shimming' these tighter to get some life out of then, now it happens that a fairly new workshop had opened up and were offering to do this on the cheap. So I take it down there and they open it up and find out its actually a nismo 2 way that has worn out clutch packs and can't simply be shimmed, they offer for a cheap option to put in a shimmed up stock LSD centre out of an s13. They do this and charge me $250 and give me my 2way centre back. About 10mins driving later the diff makes a horrible whining noise, the sort you get with incorrectly set backlash. I take it back as soon as possible with minimal driving in between. During this time it has popped the driveshafts out and lost over half the oil. On inspection the diff appears to be fine. Around now is when I start questioning the skills these people have, and asked if they knew how to set the backlash, the guy seemed pretty clueless and ended up taking it to a diff shop down the road and getting them to fit it (at his cost). He reports back that my crown and pinion are now very worn, his explanation was that the crown was already worn down from age and putting the tightly shimmed centre in it has finished it off. The diff shop I'm assuming then properly set the backlash and made up a proper shim for it. The guy recommends that I take it to this other company and get the 2way properly rebuilt as they know their shit and have been in the business for 40+ years. Now at this point I leave with a noisy diff that acts like a cheap locker, about 2 days later its almost as loose as it was before and I have essentially spend $250 to ruin my diff. I go to the new place that he recommends, they rebuild the nismo 2 way centre at a very reasonably price ($150), however when they go to fit it it is still very noisy, they say that as the crown and pinion are so worn I either have to replace them, or buy a complete 2nd hand diff assembly and use a set from there, or drive with a noisy diff but a strong centre (2way) that should last. They quote a complete diff assembly ~$700 including fitting etc, after speaking to this place they seem to think that they have just stuffed up fitting the shims and set the backlash incorrectly ruining it. Now the question I ask, how liable is the first company, I think it is reasonable to ask for my $250 back and return the other centre, however you could also argue they are liable for replacing the gears as they did not set the backlash correctly and ruined them. What do you people think I should do, take it as lesson learnt and just get my $250 back, or pursue partial costs of the replacement gears as well? 2nd question, please PM me if you have a longnose R200 diff with a good gear set, eg not noisy or clunky, dont care if the centre is stuffed, open wheeler etc.

If big capacity is wanted why don't you guys go the the nissan v8s ?

Maybe if the motor is thrashed and leaking/burning oil it might be appropriate, otherwise go something thinner.

It would sound incredible

You'll end up popping the dipstick out with it as it is.

The clunking is my bushes and everything else straining when it tries to spin the inside wheel in low speed manuvers.

I currently have a 2way nismo lsd that is shagged and open wheeling 90% of the time, now I've had a standard lsd centre thats shimmed up tight put in there. Now its shimmed so tight its a locker and its annoying me, understeer or oversteer when you push into corners, no neutral ground. It's good because It always spins up 2 instead of single legging but in car parks its clunks and chirps and is annoying. Now the 2 way is shagged and needs a rebuild so is this going to have similar traits to the locker if rebuilt? eg chirping in carparks and being a pig to drive? I don't mind a little understeer in corners as long as it will power oversteer and not single leg in straight lines. Basically the question is for a car that is 90% street 10% track am I better rebuilding the 2way or getting a standard lsd and shimming it up so its not quite locked? The car has ~150kw and being the average HR31 IRS it tends to still have trouble putting the power down even with 9.5s so a loose LSD is just annoying.

Keep the gap at 0.8mm.

Probably shagged coils/plugs along with running too rich. Fix up your air fuel ratios, regap your plugs down to .8 (lower if needed) check your coilpacks for cracks. This is a very common problem, theres about 10 threads on it if you do a search.