Rolls

Well that's what I've been told a 2nd hand rb20 box is worth, I haven't done any research, am I dreaming?

Cheers but I'm not going to waste $100 on oil when a whole gearbox will cost ~$500. Just curious if its worth it to prolong its life a bit more, if it won't help I wont bother. Anyone ever done this and had any results?

My 20det gearbox in my hr31 is giving me the shits these days, most of the syncros are badly worn, its hard to get into and out of gear, crunches when cold etc. I've heard auto trans fluid is a good bandaid fix to get some more life out of them, would this be likely to make it a bit nicer to drive for the 10k before I get a new one?

It's not an R31, as said above its a DR/HR30 with a 31 front end. They can look very nice however the backs of them are always a bit strange.

You'd think they bigger housing would help hold the power longer but it seems to drop off faster, why is that?

Thats why you use a block from a 31, they didn't suffer the overheating problems the VL had.

Holden red 202

www.staticice.com.au Lots of good prices, if you are ordering a few parts its often worth buying from interstate as postage isn't much. I personally get everything I can from MSY and if they don't stock it get it online..

turbo v8

buy a turbo

Size doesn't mean better flow, by someone who knows do you mean someone with an engineering degree? Theres a lot of maths in designing runners and a plenum to suit.

I am looking at building/buying my own knock light (something like this http://www.viatrack.ca/ ) for my car as I have an Redtop RB20DET HR31 which does not have an engine light as far as I know. Now I know the knock sensors read between 8-10v when not experiencing knock and reduce it when they find knock. Does anyone know how this voltage translates to the readings people get on their power FC/SAFC 2s so I would know how to configure the light. Eg over 60 on these is considered bad, any ideas what kind of voltage I'd be looking for?

Its some variant of a DR/HR30 with a 31 front end on it.

I'd advise pressure testing these as well as I've heard horror stories of them cracking and hydrolocking the motor. I've heard of really keen workshops having a special exhaust manifold with 6 widebands to test the afr of each indivdual cylinder to check things like this. I guess it'd be a pretty expensive way to test though.

If its a NICS bin it, the head is terrible, turbo is too small, inlet is no good and computer sucks and has a terrible tune. If its a redtop ECCS then with a remap it will be almost as good as a silvertop, eg I'm getting 151rwkw out of mine with just exhaust, fmic, and remap. I've seen people struggle to make 130 with a rb25 turbo on a nics.

Just go to the track its a great way to learn, if you stack it you just end up in the dirt not a tree/power pole.

Your average power in the rpms you will be using most of the time on the street will be higher though. I guess it comes down to application then.

Its because at the moment the C2D shits on the Athlon. My C2D 6600 2.4ghz runs at 3.2ghz with the standard fan on 1500rpm. Its dead silent and barely tops 62c on full load, completely stable as well. At those speeds it is still alot faster then the AMD 6000.

Is it possible to get a fancy boost controller that bleeds the boost so it comes on in a more linear fashion ?

Its true, I only really found the limits when I took it to the track and I'm not game enough to push it that hard on the street.

Man whenever I buy a car I take it really easy until you know the limits. I don't think I took it for a proper thrash in the hills for about a month after I bought it. Guess he will learn big time from that mistake.

Thats it, they will generally mark stuff as needing replacing when it could definitely last a lot longer. Some of the things were questionable though when I had an inspection, on trying to diagnose my susp problem at home we took the wheel off and have the ball joints a good tug and play with and got no movement yet they said they needed replacing.

I went to pedders once due to a problem with my front shock. They quoted $1k worth of stuff to repair, most of the costs were quite high. Found out what was wrong with it and went to a guy that does porches and a few old race cars, he looked over everything and said all the bushes they said were perished were fine (he got me under there and showed me examples), changed the split steering boot for $10 in about 20mins and tightened the bolt that had come loose causing my shock to my around. All up was $60 with a wheel alignment. I'd get a second opinion just for laughs, doesn't cost much to get a safety check. A lot of the bushes are a c**t to replace so I'd probably pay someone, just get a few different quotes first as the big names generally charge a lot more.

wow never even thought of that. I guess your car is never safe unless its boxed in by 5 cars.

I'd be one very sad panda.