Rolls

Old thread but thought I'd bump it to see if anyone else has any interesting information.

My mate gets called a hacker and even gets banned occasionally because hes so good, get like 30:2 on pub servers.

I had a turbocrap one on my previous car (rb20det) on the lowest setting it would spike to 15psi and then drop to 10. Hopeless piece of shit. Some bleeder seem to work better then others but I still don't really trust them.

Answers: its running 12psi because of the massive exhaust. Anymore and it will cook the air making bugger all more power and probably go pop. For a cheap fix get a 25det turbo and run 12psi with that and get your ECU tuned to suit. Should see ~180rwkw If you want something decent get a hks 2530 and injectors+tune to suit. Should see 200-220rwkw. Anything bigger and it will be a lag monster.

Yeah the 25det turbo would have been much better suited to the rb20, I guess fat midrange is more appealing to the mass market though.

What did it cost you in the end?

A 500hp Rb20 would not be very fun to drive, let alone easy to make. It'd need to be seeing 10k.

I'm pretty much satisfied with my 140rwkw atm. Sure in a fast line it could be a lot faster but around the twistys its plenty, can barely use it all as it is. I wonder how long this will last.

Because most backyard mechanics do things by trial and error and don't like calculating and getting it right first time like real engineers do. I wasn't aiming that at anyone but it seems to be the attitude of most backyard mechanics I know.

If you start it with the air con running does it idle fine? If so its possible its the AAC, try soaking it in petrol over night and then running pressurized air through it.

Across the road from me, been wondering what's going on there. Birds eye view of my 31 lol.

stock redtop rb20det running 12psi does about 13L/100km City or highway makes no difference as there's always at least one hills run per tank to screw with the economy. Pretty happy with that as its got the crap old computer and it runs very rich at around 10:1

No he just wants to borrow them for a day to do burnouts. ?

Ive got a HR31 with a rb20det that came from the factory with no bov and flutters all day long. No performance issues, no problems. I suggest this thread is closed with a link to the previous one.

Cause its not tight, apparently you cant get to it without taking it out, so they just smacked it with a metal bar or something, I dont really know what Im talking about thats just what they said, Who would you recommend going to then.

Its the nut that holds the shock in place, it had about 1cm of slack or something so it was banging around bottoming out. Generally bad handling.

Youd easily spend that on living expenses anyway. Adelaide is so much cheaper to live.

So I had a nasty clunk, bottoming out and rattle from my front left of the car. Took it down to pedders and got a 28 point inspection, they said it was the glange nut and tightened it with a metal bar (free) this fixed it but it'll probably come lose again (want $140 to take it out and tighten it). Now I've got a track day coming up in about 3 weeks and there was a few other things that were busted. He reckons my ball joints are worn, however I took the wheels off and went crazy trying to move them around and couldn't get them to budge, so I'm a bit hesitant. The radius bushes are worn and the rear sway bar link rubbers are worn (clunk a little). How major is this stuff (def getting the nut fixed up), he seemed to reckon fairly so but of course its his obligation to say so. Recommendations? Pricing they wanted for everything. Tighten glange nut $140 ball joints x2 $80-120 rear sway bar rubbers $50-60 bump stops (front were mangled and missing) $87 radius bushes $40-90

The stock turbo will absolutely kill any top end you have, itll drive like a diesel topping out at 4k, Id wait till you can afford to do everything properly so to save on dyno time and everything else.

Its not necessarily the coil packs, I got spitfires and still get a miss at 5500, I think its just running ridiculously rich (below 10:1) and causing it. With the splitfires its not as bad and doesn't happen as often however.

Someone with experience is what I want but getting out to morphett vale would be a real trick. I might give some of the other guys a go, cheers guys.

My car is badly in need of some work on the front and rear end, front right is making an awful clunk and metallic rattle on bumps and the rear bushes need replacing. Needs an alignment as well. Now who would you recommend so I don't get screwed on pricing etc, I'm in Adelaide as you probably figured. Cheers

Yeah is that just the scale or does it come on at 3k ?

At worst they will overheat and become unstable, slightly increased temps barely reduce the lifespan of the chips, its running higher voltages that does. Get a proper temp monitoring program and keep it within 65c on load and you'll be fine. Even if it did kill the chip you wouldn't be up for a whole new laptop.

No was refering to the redtop rb20dets, found in HR31 skylines.