Rolls

I remember hearing from karters that ran carby powered motors who would put their hand over the air filter to make the motor run extra rich to cool it down, to the point where they could even see the coolant temp drop in the time they had their hand over it. This is where we need some hard science, if you are to run standard size injectors at 20% duty cycle for 5 seconds on the overrun how many degrees are we likely to see drop? Saying 70c drop is just a purely guess, we really need some hard datalogging to make any real conclusions. Has anyone actually done this in a race car or know of people doing it? Would be interesting to see some real world results, otherwise all we are doing is guessing.

Yep, it isn't really a big concern, but if it was easy to do then I might as well do it.

Interested in how well it would work that is for sure.

Guessing it is seized or the adjustment screw is so far in it can't work then. Going to get the cold start tune tidied up next week so will get them to look at it then.

Yeah I know how to do it, done it before, I didn't want it to run at 14.4v when idling though. Id say it takes more than 5 minutes though!

Oh Ive already found it, we zerod it all out and my car no longer drives like a sack of shit when cold. It is a 2d map from 0-2800 rpm, was pulling timing back to maximum retard when cold however I think now it is adding timing.

Is it possible to get an analysis to determine the mode of failure via sending the oil/bearing samples off to someone?

Yeah, guess that is the next step, pressure clean it.

I was wondering what would happen if your timing was 30 degrees at idle instead of the 15 base degrees? I had an issue where on cold start the ECU (rb20det r32) would pull timing back to maximum retard making the car horrible to drive in cold weather. Pete from nistune adjusted the cold start ignition trim map to make them all 20s instead of 5 or something to fix my horrible cold start retard that made it undriveable, anyway my idle ignition is 30 degrees now when cold and slowly lowers to 15 degrees. Now I am chasing around a weird idle problem where sometimes my car idles great and other times terribly and I am just curious what too much ignition timing at idle would do? I don't believe it is the issue but I'd like to just make sure. I plan to get my own license and tweak things in the near future but for now I want to rule out a mechanical problem. Would this make it harder for the AAC/ECU to control the idle speed due to more ignition? Could an admin merge these two topics? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/401709-weird-idle-problem/page__pid__6399112__st__40#entry6399112 Also how does the nissan ECU control idle speed, as I unplugged my AAC and there was no change in idle speed, is it done via ignition/injector pulse or a combination of all 3? Thanks.

Do you have a dyno sheet, or did I miss it ? Don't KU36s last longer than RSR though? I know RSR is a more grippy tyre but they really don't last.

What if the coolant temp sensor is broken and constantly tells the ECU it is cold so it runs fuel enrichment and ignition retard? Definitely make a big difference to fuel economy!

Yeah is it tuned properly? Ever had a pair of knock ears on it whilst driving it hard?

Did you personally build it yourself or get someone to do it? Did you measure all of your clearances or did you just slap it together? 100% it is oil starvation? same bearings gone as before? could there be a blockage?

Well to be fair if you had never read it before you wouldn't know.

Just tested this and it only does 9v when priming the pump, does 12v the rest of the time. What I was going to do was try and utilise the stock 9v/12v switch for 14.4v/12v by using a relay and a different resistor in the unit but unfortunately looks like it only switches to low volts when priming not idle as well.

Where is the stock fuel pump relay in the R32, or is the fuel pump powered and switched internally from the ECU with stock wiring? Thanks Edit: apparently there is a fuel pump control uni that has a resistor in it which is where it switches the 12v to 9v at idle, does anyone know where this unit is, is it in the boot?

or sensors are broken

kasko wins the prize for the most raped clutch

Yep that is what I put it down to as well, too much trying to slip it in traffic driving to work no doubt caused half of that wear opposed to actual abuse. I ended up getting a Jim Berry organic after that, was much more appropriate, nicer to drive and held the power/abuse just as well. Have a similar thing in my r32 now, organic exedy HD I think with uprated pressure plate, holds 260 no problems.

cushion apparently, but it was TERRIBLE to drive, shuddered and f**ked my gearbox, in the end it still had massive bite and shudder but would slip on hard changes to 2nd. I am renowned for having no mechanical sympathy haha.

I raise you my button clutch, I did this just daily driving the thing ; ) Totally destroyed it, you can see the heat discolouration and warping of the rivets, with only 150rwkw as well lol.

It is still cheaper for me to drive the skyline 10kms to work than it is to register, insure and drive my $400 charade to work. Plus I put a low km neo motor in it with very low kms, so I'll either blow it up from something unrelated or sell it well before it dies from old age. I will be doing just as many cold starts as you guys driving further to work, the car will be traveling just as many kms whilst cold and not warmed up, it just won't be travelling as many kms total. So I fail to see how it is any worse than driving it longer distances providing I change the oil more regularly. For example you live 25kms from work, thats 520 cold starts and 13,000kms a year of wear and tear, if I live 5kms from work that is 520 cold starts and 2600kms a year, so I'll be spending just as much time under cold start, but travelling less kms total, I'd argue I would put less wear and tear on my motor than you will be! So driving it cold may put more wear and tear per km, but over a 10 year span it will still put less wear and tear on the motor than driving it further.

I get around 14.5L with new injectors and a highflow, that is driving to work and some decent driving. If I literally only drive to work (10kms each way) the car barely even gets warm and I get as bad as 17-18L/100km as it is all below 60kph on cold start driving. Issues like broken O2 sensor, coolant temp tensor will make it run richer than ti shoulder, so can dirty AFM, air leaks in the system so you are running richer, mods like exhaust/intake/turbo with no retune will all make the car run richer.

what went wrong with it ?

Imo not as good an engine, plus they have massive ass heads that take up heaps of room. Motor isn't really much cheaper either, considering how many aftermarket parts there are for the LS1 and how much power/torque they make standard I'd go the LS1 route. The vh45 is meant to be easier to fit though.