Rolls

I think it was more they dont want to be seen promoting speeding as this is a public forum. Talking about drifting/speeding/doing burnouts in public areas you will find is a no no on these forums. Would you really want to see a newspaper article laying shit on 'hoons' and a big screenshot of these forums with people bragging about what they have done?

www.staticice.com.au Check that site out, find the cheapest place in Australia online for components, fantastic for price comparisons.

Who's a moron?

My old rb20det used to run 13psi with no boost controller due to its awesomely free flowing exhaust.

You'll have to clean the back of your car a bit harder each time you wash it and you will have twice as much black crap on there. If its white it'll probably stain the rear bar a yellowish colour as well. I found it made it a bit louder on my old car but as mentioned it'll cause turbulence if you don't put a pipe through it.

Yep same as what I did, only I used watts but as they are directly related same answer.

550w is the max power it can supply though, it wont be using this much most of the time, average is going to be a fair bit lower, thats why I quoted ~350w. But yeah the fans etc would raise it a bit.

Well a power board can supply what 2400 watts can't it 240x10 and your average computer would use ~350W tops and a 17" LCD uses ~40w so that works out to roughly 6 PCs. I may be completely wrong though

Rear wheels

So richness can affect it missing? I plan on getting a SAFC in the future and getting it tuned to 12:1 Its running 11psi on the stock turbo

whaaaa... why would they do that?

Same deal here, sunday is the only day I can make it, Ill be climbing up from the train station and watching it on the hill.

It is? f**k I might be out then as well, cant miss the classic adelaide.

Ok Ive got splitfires and new connectors and mines still misfiring very slightly on cold nights. Mainly in 3rd but a bit in 2nd as well at around 5000-5500 after and before are fine. Any clues? ive gapped the plugs down to .6 and its an older redtop rb20det. Its gets quite rich about 10:1 once at around 5000rpm

You seem to miss the part where I said capitalist pig How will pauls dodgy insurance counter the extreme high risk of insuring people like us without ridiculous premiums?

Nothing wrong with being a capitalist pig, more money for me I say!

lol what?

Lost your license 3 times? Im not surprised its so high. Its more likely that you will crash it then you won't so they have to put premiums that high so they actually make money. Its not they they are giant blood sucking corporations, they actually do have to make money to stay alive.

Ive got a HR31 with the older redtop motor, its got apparantly 100,000 on it but its probably more like 150, anyway it blows no smoke and has even compression all over the board so it's in good condition. Pretty much stock standard but it does get quite hot in summer (sits on half temp - should get a proper guage though) Anyway I was thinking something fully synth 10-40 or should I go something thicker like 50w for summer?

Maybe the meter isnt calibrated properly, my ancient redtop rb20det got 110 even on all cylinders and 105 on one and its still making ~140kw with stock everything.

By cutting in and out do you mean misfire? The splitfire coils aren't neccessarily better, they are exactly the same as stock, however they are brand new, not 20 years old. Hence the better performance. Higher boost then stock and aged cracked coils means a weaker spark that can get blown out at high rpm. Try gapping your plugs down to .8 and then .6 and also try glueing/taping your stock coils up. Theres lots and lots of threads on this go have a read. Should be able to fix your problem.

You sure its been installed properly? Did it burn alot of oil before hand?

I like the rb20 timing belt cover.

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Im keen, got a red hr31 coupe. Sunday arvo pref