Rolls

Because dyno's are often incorrect? Its entirely possible thats the correct value. http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=23881.0 thread on 31 dynos for anyone thats curious

Said exactly the same thing, the first two calls were old guy that straight out said I was going to drift it and crash it and they werent interested. The last guy was younger and said yeah sure we can insure you, it was out of my price range however and I went with 3rd party F&T through Just Cars. Funnily enough if It get stolen and I get the $5k payout from Just Cars and pay the excess I will still get more then if it was fully insured through Shannons.

Most S2 R31s I thought looked ugly as dog balls, but yours looks really nice, nice work. )

With an exhaust and a increased timing they can pull that power, the dyno probably was reading a tad high though. More torque generally means it makes the power lower in the rev range. With a shorter diff ratio (4.3) you will have similar tractive efforts at the same speed in a rb20 vs rb30. Hell you could just paint different numbers on your tacho and it'd 'feel' torquier. As long as the gear ratios and diff ratio match the power band of the motor theres no issue. Putting a RB20DET in say a VL commodore behind an auto with a 3.08 diff will make it feel like an absolute slug however as many VL owners have noted. If you are drifting you are going to be revving the tits off it anyway so I dont think low down power is going to matter much.

Suspension?

Maybe they dynoed it inside a massive oven, did you think of that?

87 means its a n S2, they have the ugly front end. 88 onwards have the s3 front which is much much nicer. Also the standard nics 20det in the 87s is shocking, only get one if its got an eccs motor in it, pref silvertop.

Just keep calling, I called 3 times before I got a quote.

Mine goes to 11psi then down to 10-9 at redline. It should hold it, maybe boost leak?

Jesus, stop driving it on boost. High revs + no oil pressure = boom, as said above the warning light almost always does work. It could just be low on oil and getting starved under decent Gs (accel, cornering) check the level and if its really low do a change, otherwise it could be the pump itself but definately check it out before you do any more damage. Also there can be problems with excessive oil getting to the head but I don't really know much about this topic. Probably be wise to check the oil and see if theres any bearing matter in it as well (silver sparkles)

AndrewD what have you got to say about the factory produced cars that run no bov, my old 31 skyline came with no bov from the factory, its still had the standard turbo on it running 11psi at 106kms (apparantly) its was a little noisy but was still working fine and it fluttered all day long.

The kind of surge you are talking about is different to when you throttle off, as when you throttle off the exhaust stops spinning the exhaust wheel as well so the force is far less.

Heh just ask the boys on calais turbo if any of their turbos are failing prematurely, I think youll find its no different to anyone else.

Its just another word for a metal flanged pipe on the front of the turbo to the filter, some of them have 3" to 2.5" to make the flutter note deeper etc.

Get someone to check the oil pressure out with a proper meter and find out if it is the sender, it probably is but its not a cheap fix if it actually is that low and something dies.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...highlight=video VL guys even have a tutorial on how to 'dose'. Seriously that forum is such a laugh sometimes. Wastegates have absolutely nothing to do with that flutter noise.

It doesn't, external wastegates have nothing to do with flutter.

They will fit into a silvertop but the plugs wont hook up. They are slightly different to the newer ones. You could probably make something up though, might be possible to get an adaptor.

Its in the DIY section, I think they provide some rough estimates in that guide. Try googling.

Even with splitfires Im running .8 gap as I still got missing at 1.1 (indicating possibly ignitor or something else?) Generally only after Ive babied it around for 50kms so it could just be that the plugs are fouling up. On a cold night it runs really well. Are they still the VN coils? VN owners look for replacement solutions because of their poor performance on an NA engine, they wont ever work well on your motor.

I doubt that would affect low load, full load it would.

I had this problem on my old rb20det. First thing in the morning itd miss and overfuel cronic, around 1/4 throttle it be like a rev limiter poping and backfiring like crazy, full throttle was fine, itd rev out without an issue but 1/4 was f**ked. It wouldnt idle proplerly then magically itd fix itself and be fine after about 10mins. Some days itd be fine as well for no good reason. Replaced fuel filters, ran injector cleaner, cleaned out the AAC and the throttle body to no avail, it did make it run smoother when warm though. I think it was just massively overfueling though as you could almost see a cloud of black smoke when it was happening, itd make your eyes sting and you would feel dizzy sitting at the lights. I changed plugs, coils all spark related stuff but it didnt fix the problem in the slightest, replaced O2 sensor and a few other things. Never solved it and ended up selling the car for other reasons. A few people suggested temp sensor and that the ECU could have just been buggered.

From what Ive read the VN coils are shocking, try the AU ones.

Sell your car and buy one worth $10k more. That way you dont have to do shit aside from sell it, youll get more for your money and a better car.

Boostworx do it, its ~$95 but theres usually a 2 week waiting list as hes a busy guy. I got mine checked at tillbrooks for $100 with a days notice. Wasn't the most thorough check but they did a compression test which was the main thing I wanted.