Rolls

No idea, I only just noticed this then when looking at that thread, mine were the older type and epoxy/tape didnt fix mine so Ive got splitfires on the way but it has worked for alot of people. - style with band around them http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=39044 - style without

Some of the older coilpacks have a metal rim around them instead of the 4 screw holes. There is about a 1mm gap between this and the coil. If this is the case its almost impossible to tape inbetween this gap and it will arc to the alloy holder instead. In this gase you need to fill the gap with araldite or some sort of high temp epoxy.

Notice the hex shape on the outside? use a socket They are usually pretty damn tight if they havent been removed in a while, doubt you could get most of them out without ruining them if you used a screwdriver. Yes you do have to remove them, I dont really see how you would patch them up otherwise. Hah, boring you are we? I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make but its worth trying the bigger gap first.

Unless you want it as a collectors item dont get it, you can get a GTS-X in good condition with look alike GTS-R parts for under $10k now. No one aside from a true 31 enthusiast would even know they exist let alone the difference. Also they are a laggy pig to drive, full boost wont be seen until after 5000rpm

Sounds like a really good idea, would make throttle control much easier.

Does it pop and misfire when you get to this point? A good way to check the coilpacks is to take the cam valley cover off. Take it for a good spin at night, get it nice and hot and put it in a dark shed and keep it running. Give it a few good revs and see if you can see any blue sparking from the coilpacks to the head. Try gapping the plugs down to .8 and then .6, if this fixes it then its a spark related problem and most likely your coils. If the plugs are old though it could just be them.

The only reason it dies in the ass is the coils cant provide enough charge to spark that distance properly. The bigger the gap the better the combustion and the more power/economy you will get. The biggest gap you can have with no misfire is the best option. Get new coils and try 1.1, if you get absolutely no missing leave it. If you still do move down to a .8, I wouldn't say the car is made for any particular gap, its made to run the biggest gap possible. On a completely stock motor (7psi ?) I'm pretty sure 1.1 would be fine with the aged stock coils

Just get a shit car for your first car, save up and get something nice once youve crashed it and are off your Ps. You will scratch it up, you dont want a nice car for your first car and you sure as hell don't want a fast car.

No intercooler?

Just out of curiousity why is that?

Cheapest easiest way is to get an rb30e crank AND block. Theres an entire thread on doing that. There are stroker kits available, but I think only for the RB26, and they are fairly expensive only stroking it up to 2.8 litre? Im not 100% on that though do a search and itll probably show something else up.

Id say its a spark problem, weak coils possibly not causing a powerful enough spark. The higher boost level is blowing the spark out. Try gapping your plugs down (requires less energy for the spark) Also 11psi is as high as you want to boost the stock turbo. It wont last much longer above this level. Its a very common problem, usually coil/sparkplug related. However it could be something else. Read all about it here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=32356

Theres a reason the RB30 crank belongs in the RB30 block. Its taller. You cant put it in an rb25

A stagea is AWD and has the same motor as an R34, it might be a bit heavier but its still a very quick car.

Hows longs a piece of string? You come across as a twat, of course you are going to get smart ass replies.

lol I think his skyline is NA. Seriously you are an embarassment to true enthusiasts, go back to nissan silvia.

Sorry if this has been answered before but what are the advantages of an internal gate over an external gate, aside from the obvious cost factor.

Oh because I have an older redtop RB20DET from a HR31 coupe it has different plugs so they supply a new loom with connectors for an extra $90

Yeah cheers for the info guys, Ive gone ahead and ordered some splitfires as I want to do it right the first time, and its less hassle. The adapter replaces the entire cabling loom as well so all new cables and wires which is good as the old ones are all hagged and brittle now.

True but wouldnt relocating to somewhere aside from the furnace between the head be a bonus? I mean plenty of cars run leads without issues. I found out I can get a AU coil pack brand new for $70, leads will set me back ~$60 and what $70-100 to get an auto electrician wire it up properly for me. This vs $585 it seems like a much cheaper option and leads are cheap if for some reason they did break. Do you think that the splitfires + adaptor are honestly worth getting at more then double this price?

Finally got my quote back from perfectrun $585 for a splitfires with the adaptor Vs $230 from this guy. If he ever replies to my email Ill decide.

Cure all misfiring problems, no longetivity issues with the wasted spark issue?

http://gdz1la.kol.co.nz/prod01.htm Found this guys website when reading this thread on r31skyline club http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=36055.0 Basically it replaces them with a system that runs wasted spark, you can then mount it on the firewall and run external leads. Even if you get him to do all the rewiring and soldering yourself it only costs you ~$230 for a set with new leads. Another option would be to use an AU falcon coilpack and get someone to rewire it. The specs look good, was wondering if anyone has done this with success? Im looking at doing it as I have a redtop rb20det which if I go splitfires I will need an adaptor loom as well which will cost at least $700 for the lot.

Exhaust leak?

I dont think theres many engines you could bore out a whole 500cc.