Rolls

could you screw much more boost into it on 98?

Print off something from the website showing them as OEM replacements, "looks stock" might not cut it for the rail, same with two pumps even though it shouldn't change anything they will probably ark up about it.

Internate gate is fine, figure out why it is laggy and not working, the fact that it isn't making 18psi until 5500 means the wastegate is flowing perfectly, if it was a wastegate issue you'd be boost spiking. Do all the usual stuff like smoke test the intake, check the actuator isn't loose and the gate is sealing, drop exhaust, get the tune checked out etc etc. edit: those housings get poor results, just do a search to see the guys before you and what they found, 0.63 or 0.82 housing will be a big upgrade, depends how much response you want.

Do NOT drive it on boost at all, not even 3k on boost, you will destroy the motor if it is pinging. Do what JEZ said, remove 3 degrees from >3k and it should be safe until you get it tuned.

What is the point in spending money on something that won't really help?

I've got them but don't have them easily accessible, you have to lift the parcel shelf up on my car to see them. They have let me off twice but waited for me to say I'll cut a chunk of the material out with my scissors each time before doing so. So you definitely need them, but you might get away with them not being accessible. Basically the part you need is the child restraint welded onto the parcel shelf, but you don't need the actual hook that screws into the hole.

You need the child restraints to be accessible, you don't need the actual hooks, but you need the hole in the parcel shelf to be accessible and visible so that they could screw them in if they wanted to. The speakers also need to be secured to the metal, they can't just be screwed in to the wood. If you got done for exhaust noise they will most likely test it, unless it really stinks of alcohol I doubt they will notice that, personally I'd just go through and see what happens, but if you have aftermarket ECU and injectors to run the E85 they will most likely pick up on these.

Did you change the Z32 sticker to the green one? I went through about a month ago. Interesting if they are really this clued up now.

check my worklog to save cluttering up this thread

Yep both on same dyno same tuner. Pete from nistune and the morpowa dyno in adelaide, he told me every neo he has done has gotten fantastic results compared to the r33 engine, "chalk and cheese" were his words from tuning multiple neo and r33 motors. I also had identical everything just changed from r33 rb25det to a neo rb25det with the r33 intake, all the same sensors, hoses, literally everything the same just the block changed and went from ~236kw at 18psi to 258kw at 16psi.

The few tuners I talked to seemed to think they always made more power as they seem to rev more, seen two results that seem to point that way, eg matt from nistunes r34 that makes 310rwkw on a 0.63 gt3071r with poncams on only 18psi, dyno sheet is on here from a reputable dyno/tuner, and then mine which is a highflowed rb20 turbo with the rb20 rear housing still that makes ~258kw on only 16psi

Depends how much the motor is worth and what you do with it. If it is a stock rb20 and you drive it on the street only Id see no issue with running a semi synth to 20,000kms, the oil will be well and truley f**ked by then, but it won't matter as the motor will most likely die from detonation (due to incorrect tuning) or oil starvation from drifting before natural wear and tear takes it out. If it is even a new neo 25 with low kms that you track once again you'll kill it before the natural wear and tear takes it out. In fact unless you plan on the motor lasting for 300,000kms or it is a drag/track/ $20,000 rebuilt you can put basically whatever shit you want in it and it won't matter, the money you save on oil changes you can put towards a replacement motor. For example 50,000kms of full synthetic oil changes at 5k intervals could buy you a second hand neo rb25, so by using shit oil you can put the money towards an UPGRADE Moral of the story, whatever you do don't spend more than $50 on oil and don't change it more often than 10,000kms, it isn't value for money.

Looks very similar to GT2871 results on a neo 25, I have a turbo that is highflowed with the same wheels that looks very similar to that graph though less power due to the restrictive rear housing. http://imageshack.us/f/4/img20120517221202.jpg/ Be interesting to see how well this turbo performs when you finish the tune! Neos always seem to give fantastic results.

lol the pin count? dude most of them wouldn't know what a Z32 is let alone the colour sticker and especially not the pin count! They certainly don't usually check it! I went through for putting an RB25DET in my R32 and it specifically said "standard intake, injection and computer system" so they were instructed to check mine and they didn't pick it. During a normal defect inspection it isn't something they would normally consider, they would just glance over it. Hell I went through with a 260kw highflow and they just asked me if it had been rebuilt as it looked so clean and shiny, I said "yeah its a reconditioned stocker" and that was it.

Did a better job of the manual here, 95% of pictures are translated now. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/1428435/final.ja.en.doc

I lold quite hard

look in the mirror

I wouldn't be driving it hard if all of that has happened, tune could be up the shit as well, who knows what is going on at full load, lean, rich, detonating etc.

In an R32 you can go up to a 7L NA engine or 4.5L turbo charged if you get it appropriately engineered. I imagine an R31 is slightly heavier/the same so I imagine similar limits, I read this on the application to modify vehicle regulations.

lol

I would bet $100 if you put a garret or any other turbo on your car you will have identical problems.

Boo yeah, thanks!

Gave it a shot but it totally butchered it, if you copy paste individual pages to this translator app you can translate each page though so should be good enough for you guys to extract any information you need, for some reason it won't translate the entire document properly, but if you do it page by page it works, can't really be f**ked doing 900 pages though lol https://dl.dropbox.c...ual_english.pdf I got the japanese manual here and made it searchable so you can copy paste pages into word and then use this website https://dl.dropbox.c...0searchable.pdf http://www.onlinedoc...translator.html

Yeah I mentioned that earlier, it is quite a simple fix if someone would let me have access, I'm guessing nismoid won't though haha.

Nup. What colour are the injectors, if they are bright coloured and not a dull grey/purple/black they might suspect them. Other things to check are if your intake has all the standard gear eg charcoal canister, stock recirc bov plumbed in, PCV plumbed in, POD bolted down or even better stock intake. Obviously the turbo has to go back to stock, that is why highflows are great, mine makes 260kw and has a stock turbo housing. They won't emissions test it unless you've submitted an application to modify vehicle eg engine swap and they have put it down as a requirement, even then you get it done at a workshop (they make it up) and they sign it.