Rolls

Basically a small device that replaces the centre of the diff, be it an open diff or possibly lsd and it locks the diff, kind of like welding only removable.

Ive got an older R31 Skyline with the rb30e motor in it. Now when cold or left for many days the car will crank once and start instantly with no throttle and idle perfectly and not blow any smoke (not bad for 350+kms) If I leave it for up to 30mins it will start instantly as well however if I leave it for any longer around 30mins - 10hours it struggles to start. With no throttle it will crank for 10-15seconds before it starts or if I stab the throttle repeatedly around 5seconds and will puff a little white smoke and give the smell of fuel for about 30seconds, often the first couple of seconds sounds like its running on only a few cylinders. Now I've heard dirty injectors could cause this so Im going to try some injector cleaner to see if it has any effect at all indicating a clean would be a good idea. Any other ideas guys? My economy is great at around 10l/100km with all city driving giving it a bit here and there. Its a cheap daily so I dont spend much money on it aside from regular oil changes to hopefully see this motor lasting as long as possible as it is still in very good condition (want to try and crack 500k). Help. Cheers guys.

read the r33 rb30 thread.

Even with a stock cat youd fail the test, they only work for 100k or so before the catalyst is all used up or covered in carbon. Do it if you want. Sort of acts as a resonator though and keeps the volume down a bit.

My oldschool R31 with a redtop rb20 in it had a similar problem only slightly more advanced. If you held the revs at about 2.5k you would get a metallic banging (not quite as deep as knocking noise) anyway it was consistant and definately bearings. When the motor was reved out (shit motor didnt care if it exploded) sometimes it would make the noise others it wouldnt. Car was also really down on power sometimes others fine. But the noise is exactly the same as you describe it. SERIOUSLY STOP f**kING DRIVING IT! Change your oil filter and pour the oil out on some paper in the sun and I bet you will see silver sparkles from the shagged bearings in it. If you insist on driving it put some thicker oil in it.

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its not as simple as just slapping it on.

Id imagine the longer it is the more it muffles it, too an extent. I think the body (thickness) of the muffler also has a big impact. Hence why those tiny rear hotdogs you see on 4cyl fart boxes are extremely loud but the massive bodied mufflers you see on skylines etc arent as bad.

checkout www.r31skylineclub.com as well if you are after cheap rb30s

Like to get some audio of what it sounds like as well.

Depends what sort of turbo you plan on upgrading it to? If its something fairly big you might need injectors as well in which case an aftermarket computer/piggy back would be highly recommended.

post a video or some mp3s of it if you can, love to hear this thing

is there oil in your coolant?

yeah other way round, not sure if your 6% thing is right but itll will rev higher so if it was 4k at 100 itll now be 4240rpm

Id also suggest not driving it until it can be diagnosed.

Theres lots of talk on r31skylineclub.com about those diffs, also I've heard the pintara diff is not as strong.

I thought they used clutch packs?

Without a doubt it'll be alot faster.

400awkw ? man you should be abusing this thing at the track when its done, would you even be able to put that down without slicks?

Try running it for 5mins or more and see if the smoke/vapour is still there.

So your not going to do anything to the cam? surely that would really make things fly.

haha yeah if you don't mind saying, what exactly do you do for a living?

If it isnt already save it as a jpeg, then try changing the resolution to something lower, around 500x500 ish should be good, depends on what program you are using as to how you do this.

divide it by .73 and vice versa to get roughly the figure in hp

what exhaust system is on this car?