Rolls

A good tune with an aftermarket computer will do wonders for your economy, also making sure your O2 sensor and temp sensor are functioning correctly will help as well.

Im talking about on a track, surely you would want to shift slightly above max power, it makes more sense and everyone has always told me to do it as this way you will have more power in the next gear. eg. let use the above dyno results and assume a 2k drop in revs. Shift at 7500rpm 310kw and it drops to 5500rpm at 250kw average power = 278kw or shift at 8500rpm at 295kw and it drops to 6500rpm at 275kw average power = 293kw Shifting higher = more power available across the spread. Yes you are correct you wont be making as much power at the top of the gear but once you change gear you will be making more then if you shift lower and hence your overall average power will be higher. Say once your in a high gear like 4-5th and the revs dont drop as much you could work it out and probably shift much lower then in early gears like 1-3rd

Wouldnt you want to set it 400-500rpm above max power so that when you shift it doesnt dip much below max power?

when the bottom end bearing were on the way out on my old car the rattle was loud enough to set off the knock sensors so itd really lose power sometimes and others power on.

Your description really sounds like pinging. I always describe it as a nail in a tin bouncing around. Do you have an unshielded pod? that could explain why its only once the turbos have heated everything up. Cold or hot days influence it?

I doubt any damage would be done by using thicker oil (20w-50w) but if youve got a newer engine you may as well take advantage of using higher quality thinner oils like 5-40 etc. If youve got a bog stock rb30e with 200+ on the clock you wouldnt want to use anything other than 20-50 however due to the clearances rings etc being worn. Too thin oil will cause the motor to lose compression due to it slipping past the rings etc.

and a stupid cam and crank so it can rev to 9k all day. mmm if only I had money to waste.

If you mated it with an rb30 block it would make for an interesting engine

With the standard turbo and intercooler anymore then 12psi will just cook the air making the engine more likely to ping (bad) and not give any power increase, I wouldnt recommend leaving it like that with summer coming up.

Wheres the oil coming from?

No its not Factory is about 7psi, with a full 3inch exhaust and pod it will creep to 10-13 though, I know mine did. Theres no way to turn it back down without getting a different spring. A boost controller will only allow you to set it higher then what you currently have. Id just take it easy on the hot days and get a FMIC so it doesnt cook the air. If its really going up to 14psi Id get the spring/actuator checked as somethings wrong there and it'll kill the turbo pretty quick smart and really cook the air.

rb27?

165 at the flywheel, about 110-120 at the wheels so hes doing better then stock. The old redtops rated at 140 only made 95-100atw in stock form, slower then a rb30e.

oh boy

Need more info on the engine mate, what motor? what turbo? kms? condition? blow smoke? rattles? leaks? how longs a piece of string?

I used one of those in my redtop rb20dets in my R31 and the car wouldnt even idle below 1500, misfired, no power below 3. Once you put the boot into it it was fine but yeah had to unplug it straight away. Im pretty sure the earlier redtop sensors are a different type to the EL ones as the EL one was white white black and the stocko one was red black and white.

It will make a difference however has the standard ECU been remapped? as this could help it out quite a bit, got a dyno graph with A/F ratios on it? is it losing out on the top end or all over the spectrum?

If youve got an auto you will lose to most things off the line, I got beaten by my mates 1.3litre mazda 1300 in my auto RB20DET R31, sure once you get on boost and up to 60 you fly past them but thats the difference between a manual and auto. Even if you stall it up they arent very fast off the line.

What sort of rims/slicks are you currently running?

Nope they make 145 or something at the flywheel roughly 25% drivetrain loss = 105

Stock rb20dets dont make anywhere near 150 its more like 100-115

this confirms my belief, cars suck. Hope you get it sorted mate.

Thats a nice curve, must be pretty damn quick on the street.

so tell us

Theres no point spending heaps on it if its NA, it will cost way more to make the power you want. Turbo is the best way to go, in which case Id sell your car and buy a GTS-T save you alot of money vs turboing your NA which will still have NA brakes etc.