Rolls

it kind of sounds like if you try and start the car while its already running, only not quiet as bad.

edit ok after some more searching, namely r31skylineclub i came up with these NGK BCPR6ES or BCPR6ES-11 as my car runs rich no doubt they will probably foul after a while so no point forking out for platinum or iridium does anyone know what the gap of the BCPR6ES are? ah well ill sort it out, i think my coils are a bit shagged as well so the .8 should help out

Ive got an r31 passage with a redtop rb20det eccs engine, now its running about 10-11psi boost and ive read loads of conflicting info on what plugs to use. Now I dont see money well spent in forking out for iridium plugs, so from what ive read I want copper plugs with a heat range of 6 and possibly gap them to .8? or just leave them? where would I find the part numbers for something like this, eg brands etc. Also before someone says it ive searched but yeah I dont know what to read and in the end im still lost The owner before hand didn't maintain it very well and its having some cold start intermittant idle problems, so Im gonna start with the basics as its got its 100k service coming up soon so may as well do as much of it myself as I can.

well as much as I can get H-O-W M-U-C-H W-I-L-L Y-O-U P-A-Y?

The other day it rained heavily over night and in the morning, anyway when I started my car the next day (its left outside - nothing I can do about it) the starter motor noise was about twice as loud as normal and is more of a screech. It starts fine so I dont see it being a problem, but if its a sign its about to die or something it'd be great to know in advance.

bump

how would they tell your cat had been "high flowed" though if it still has the original housing? I mean its not like a cop is going to pull you over and take your cat off and then defect you.

steam?

Nah they came with the r31 I bought but I dont want them so im selling them off, so I guess I want to make a profit off them but thats not the sole reason

hey yeah you do have to pay a yearly fee not sure off the top of my head what it is, if you want them make an offer

bump

Ok its been sold locally for $130

If you are still interested PM me and Ill send you my bank details and we can go from there, otherwise it still hasn't sold so Im still asking $140

Sounds like it is running extremely rich, for what reason I dont know though.

weow doesn't anyone want these plates?

Also was using the AC today and when I turned it off sometimes the device that compensates for it and ups the idle speed didn't turn off and it would start idling at 1300

Yeah its definately running too rich, getting about 20l/100km on average, about 15 if I do some highway driving and thats not giving it much. Gonna get a tune and see if it improves economy and see if in turn it fixes the idle problem.

bump, cmon there worth more then $50

ok ran the diagnostics on the ecu it flashed both lights on once, pause, both lights twice, pause, both lights 3 times, pause, both lights 4 times, pause, both lights 4 times, pause and then it repeated now according to this http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/tiki-index....age=Error+codes That means my crank angle sensor (surely it cant be this or I would experience massive power loss?), fuel pump circuit (apparantly this isn't even stored in memory), 33 which doesn't even have a diagnostic code for it and then 44 which I think means no more faults. any clues? also being as I have a transistor pack and 1 coil do I even have a crank angle sensor? Ok just reset the ecu, started the engine for about 1min and then ran diagnostics again, flashed both lights twice then 4 times twice and then went back to the pattern I initially mentioned

What would you suggest doing to fix this issue? I have a spare pump but it sounds like its not the issue, the way its getting its power is. Also I think Im gonna check the air flow meter and maybe replace the plugs, what does a new coil pack cost?

I orginally posted this on r31skylineclub but didnt get a whole lot of response so Im going to post it here. http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?...p?topic=23816.0 Either way they said its most likely my AAS that was stuffed so I cleaned the AAS and it dind't do squat, however it was very clogged up with carbon. Anyway when I put it back I also had a go at installing my alarm but didn't quite finish it. In the process I had my ECU unplugged for several hours and when hooked it all back up again encountered a very strange problem The car wouldnt start, it would kick over but not start, eventually after about 5 goes it made some backfires but would not start. Went under the engine bay, unplugged the coil pack etc and sprayed conductive spray on everything, tried again, would fire on about 1 cyl and instantly stall. Tried agai, wouldn't start. This went on and off and eventually it started running on 4cyls, ran like crap, took it around the block and didn't get better, then turned it off started it again and it started perfect everytime. Any ideas? either way Ive found out the idle problem is related to something electrical I think as when it drops from 1500 to 400 it starts misfiring, not a lot but enough to make it drop that many rpm, then as soon as I give it some throttle back up to 1500 no worries, about 5 secs later will start misfiring and go back to 400. This goes on for about a minute getting better and better and after about 3mins the car is fine. THe colder the engine the worse it is,if ive driven the car within 4 hours it starts perfect. Edit: it also doesn't have very good throttle response in neutral, have to give it quite a bit to make it rev, although in gear it still has plenty of power and goes fine.

bump

Ive got the plates RB20T from my R31 skyline for sale with the transfer form all ready to go, they are dark blue with silver writing. Start the offers.

ive actually got a passage, would the wiring diagram be the same or at least similar for a rb20det

any chance of an R31 wiring diagram?