Rolls

Anyone know of any car cruises on tonight?

I wonder if they use garden sprinklers for injectors lol

You need a boost controller with linear correction, eg with mine it will dip from 19psi to 14-15psi, but if I add 35% extra gain from 4000-7000 rpm it holds flat until about 6800 when it genuinely runs out of flow and dips down to about 16-17

Yeah as soon as we heard it stopped immediately and pulled 2-3 degrees out of that area of the map

I also know of a big name workshop here in Adelaide that doesn't use knock detection, I won't ever be getting my car tuned there again as when I hooked up some knock ears and reved out 3rd on a warm day it was detonating like crazy. Really really slack, PM if you want to know who.

I need the plastic inner guard for the right hand side of an R32, mine has shit itself and water is coming in with the wet weather, stuffed some rags in there for now but it won't be long before I cook some electronics. SA only, can pickup or if you can drop off that would be great. Please PM me as I don't get email notifications.

exactly, I treat most built engines as less reliable than an unopened nissan motor, unless you go to one of maybe 2-3 builders that know what they are doing.

Do you even need cams?

Looks like more than enough power for the street, good response, good powerband. just enjoy it and save your money for a house!

Buy a stock neo and don't touch anything on it, as soon as you open it you've made it worse. add a highflow, injectors, afm, ecu, clutch, tyres and you are back about $6k already and this will be enough to kill yourself quite easily, also if you don't open it and tune it correctly it should last forever with ~260-280kw

I am running a metal intake, it is just the bit that joins on the pod that is silicon, seems fine with 260kw where as the stock pipe used to suck closed on less than 200kw Thanks though, will keep an eye out If you are running no BOV at all the longer the intake the less bad the reversion will be as it will be buffered over a long time, you will still get it, it just might not be bad enough to stall the motor.

Do most aftermarket ecus have frequency counters for digital inputs you can use?

Id plug a consult in and confirm, thermostat/temp sender is easy to change though.

Rail has been painted black at one stage poorly so needs a clean up, wasn't sanded so just some light scrubbing should get it looking shiny alloy again. Say $100 for it? I'd like to sell the regulator with it as well, make me an offer if you are interested.

Yep pretty much that was the problem. The metal intake pipe I have with the old silicon joiner looks identical to the stock bendy hose, it was just about ~10cm shorter, so the AFM was mounted a lot closer to the bov outlet than it should have been. Will grab a picture of afterwards tomorrow if I have time. edit: Oh the new hose has a ~90 degree bend in it as well, probably makes more difference than just having it longer as well.

Yep, would have been maybe 10-15cm shorter than the stock rubber hose.

Added another 15cm of silicon hose to the pod, completely removed the issue.

What is a digital frequency lol? You could get a 0-5v readout definitely, if the sensor is digital then it will need a special interface to work with anything, if it is just designed to work with the display then this is probably the case, but if it is designed to be input to an ECU it should be analog.

Yeah I think even a laggier turbo could make 200kw at 4000rpm because even a 300kw turbo is usually mostly on boost by 4k, it wouldn't be as linear or nice to drive on the street, for the track it would work though. I really need some new tyres though, took it for a spin in the cold weather, even at 50% throttle with a full tank of petrol and people in the car second won't hook up, I think my diff opening up is a big contributor though. That will learn me for having 1 year old rock hard federals on there.

eboost street, really neat device, had to add loads of correction to get it to hold flat boost, 25% more gain between 4 and 7k, wouldn't be able to get it flat without it.

I put it down to having a neo, with the old r33 rb25 it made peak power of ~240rwkw at 6250rpm on 18psi and then died off, neo head just seems to flow so much better that it makes more power on 16psi Drives extremely linearly as well, barely even feels like a turbo

I dont understand why someone would run a $30k engine off a microtech.

I've been through regency 3x with a decat pipe, no one even checks my exhaust volume...

yes you can make your rb30 look like an rb20, just restamp the engine number and no one will be the wiser unless they measure the height of the block.. which they won't.

wut?