Rolls

$4000 is a shit load of 98 fuel, I don't think its worth it unless you really want the extra power E85 gives.

just put a neo 25 in it from day one, some people might call it blasphemy though

Is it down on power? drop the exhaust in case of a blockage, tell them if they can't figure it out you'll go elsewhere, that is why you are paying them...

I don't believe you.

table is what I meant not map. There is a cold start and warm start timing map, these are the two that do the retarding. The warm start one is much less aggressive, I'd just duplicate it in the cold start map and then take a few degrees out of the warm start one. Lots of other handy tables though, coolant temp ignition and fuel tables for when the car gets hot, I put big numbers 110c degrees cell and a bit in the 100 so if it overheats in summer I don't blow it up.

It doesn't adjust the fuel figures, ignore them and work it out properly, there is not way you get 9L/100km do it the way everyone else does, run to empty, full tank, reset odo, run to empty, divide litres used / odo * 100

r34 neo rb25det with all r33 sensors and intake in an r32 740cc deatchwerks injectors z32 afm 3" exhaust with 1 muffler and shitty split pulse dump hybrid intercooler (a real one) with a shitty pod r32 rb20det ecu with nistune GCG highflowed rb20det turbo Added some fuel after these curves which dropped it to about 255kw, peak torque from 3-7k, amazing powerband, incredible to drive, drives like a stock rb25det with 260kw!! Makes 5psi by 1800rpm and 10psi by 2800rpm afr http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/959/img20120517221116.jpg boost http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9011/img20120517221202.jpg torque

Retuned tonight and made ~260kw on 16psi, we ran it up on 19psi but it would drop back down to 16psi anyway and didn't make that much more midrange so left it on 16 for a nice safe tune. Added some fuel after these curves which dropped it to about 255kw, peak torque from 3-7k, amazing powerband, incredible to drive, drives like a stock rb25det with 260kw!! Makes 5psi by 1800rpm and 10psi by 2800rpm Added coolant temp fuel and ignition trim tables so it should be super safe if it gets hot in summer afr http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/959/img20120517221116.jpg boost http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9011/img20120517221202.jpg

I am of the opinion there are two maps, cold start and sort of cold start as mine still pulls timing when I drive the car about 5-6 hours ago, eg in the morning it is fine (stone cold) if I leave work early it does it though the warm start map doesn't pull anywhere near as much timing and doesn't really bother me. The other option is yes your temp sender is stuffed, is your fuel economy ruined? Plug in a consult cable and check the fault codes (not 100% reliable), or simply just check the output when cold and when hot with a multimeter, it should vary.

Getting ~14-15L/100km city driving with a good enough tune, better than with GTR injectors as I was getting closer to 16 and the same driving style gets properly tuned tonight, will see if it improves.

injectors and resistor pack sold

resistor pack and injectors sold

http://www.skylinesa...ad-of-username/ sorry I should have posted it straight in here, saw the sticky after I posted. edit: Is it possible to get the topic title as the first item in the email notification like it used to be? Currently it is: New Reply: DVS JEZ when I look in my email, but that means I have to open the email to see what thread was replied to, what would be nicer is: New Reply: "Hypergear Hiflow Service Continued.". Is this possible to achieve? the main issue is Gmail doesn't group the emails based on topic, it just floods my inbox with an email for every single reply, if the topic is the same then it groups them all together. Hope someone can help, this was an issue with the previous forum software many years ago but after a request someone changed it. Thanks.

Is it possible to get the topic title as the first item in the email notification like it used to be? Currently it is: New Reply: DVS JEZ Rolls, DVS JEZ has just posted a reply to a topic that you have subscribed to titled "Hypergear Hiflow Service Continued.". when I look in my email, but that means I have to open the email to see what thread was replied to, what would be nicer is: New Reply: "Hypergear Hiflow Service Continued.". Is this possible to achieve? the main issue is Gmail doesn't group the emails based on topic, it just floods my inbox with an email for every single reply, if the topic is the same then it groups them all together. Hope someone can help, this was an issue with the previous forum software many years ago but after a request someone changed it. Thanks.

do not recommend, just get a normal sized turbo like normal people. bigger doesn't = better, it will be slower than a smaller turbo.

Will check both, might see about rewelding the return so it is on a better angle.

It is the stock BOV, is it there from factory? I am running a metal intake but the angle looks identical to stock, plus I had a very similar issue with the rubber intake.

Two of the biggest mufflers you can fit under there, done.

and not to mention if everything else isn't up to scratch it will affect the power output greatly, eg air leaks, exhaust, tuner, slipping clutch/trans. Cheap and big power don't go together, I'd sell the turbo and by something more sensible especially if it is a street car, it won't even feel fast on the street, just lag lag lag lag lag boost limiter.

Yeah I know they work, but the lack a lot of the handy factory features that the factory ECU has. You can lean out cruise on a nistune the same way if you want, just turn off O2 feedback and pull fuel out until you are happy, or if you are lazy just leave the O2 feedback on and it'll be about the same as the factory fuel economy if you don't stuff things up too much.

I'm getting reversion with my stock bov as I am running a highflowed rb20 turbo on an rb25 and it makes a lot of boost quite early, eg 6psi by 1900rpm in 4th. If I boost with minimal throttle and back off I get a odd fluttering noise from the intercooler piping, but not the same as flutter from running no bov, it actually comes from the pipes/intake on the right hand side instead of the pod. Anyway this means if I get on boost with the throttle just cracked open and then throttle off to change gear it fuels up and means the throttle doesn't work for about half a second, this makes for clunky gear changes which is quite frustrating. I'm getting the tune touched up on thursday and Im hoping we can tune a lot of this out but is there anyway to make the stock bov work better? It doesn't flutter when I back off but I'm getting all the side effects of reversion, eg the maf signal flaps around, fuels up and pops on gear changes now and then.

Doesn't mean it is a good idea to run it ! I bet I could set up a carby blow through set up on my rb25 and it would be "good enough" and if it worked I could say "without a problem" as well. The stock ECU has better tunability than a microtech, it has more features and does an all round better job at every single part of running a car. You have paid money for a down grade. You are right I don't ever use my nice cold start, my idle air valve control that automatically adjusts when the AC comes on, I also don't need fuel economy via an O2 sensor.

I think it was pulling far far more than 7 degrees, the map I saw had a dip from 20 down to 5 and when I looked in ecu talk it was pulling the maximum timing possible. It doesn't do it this bad stock though, so I suspect when you start changing injectors/afms etc something else might kick in as well, unsure what.

no such thing as a "good first turbo car" they will all be a money pit

I have an rb20 turbo highflowed on my rb25det, it makes 5psi by 2000rpm if you load it up in 4th, makes 18psi by around 3k and makes about 240kw It honestly feels like it comes on sooner than the stock turbo and has mountains of midrange, top end isn't massive but for a street car it is fantastic.