Rolls

Had a stupid air leak, runs fine with the injectors suprisingly, bit rich but idles and revs cleanly.

You'll be lucky to get $12k for it regardless of how much has been spent on it, the reality is no one who has $20k wants an R31. Part it out and you'll make way more.

f**k doing it yourself if someone will do it for $250! bargain of the century.

It isn't worth the money. Even better than option 2 is option 3: Buy a GTS-T with all those mods already for a fraction of the cost, the owner will probably have f**ked half them up, but it is still cheaper to fix his average mods then to start from scratch.

Another way to tell is the coil pack mounts are different in the neo head, different hole size and placing.

So will most other things sitting in your shed if you drink them, sure methanol is worse but surely it isn't that hard to get a lock cap or put it up high out of reach?

didn't search very hard, there is an entire sub forum dedicated to doing this swap, quite a few people have done it with the neo head, don't remove the VCT it is the best part of it!

I also did the 25 swap, I had to put 33 brakes on, stock ecu and stock injection system. Had a FMIC and 3" exhaust that was borderline legal but they didn't test it, same with the suspension, had sagged below legal but it was stock so they didn't measure it either. The process is pretty easy to pass providing the car looks and is pretty much stock, I managed to get through with a GCG highflow as it looked stock lol. Get the emissions test done by a workshop, most of them will just make the numbers up for you and stamp it providing the car is stock, PM me if you want to know who I got to do my idle emissions test, the laws were fairly lax back then so if you have a brand new cat you should pass the idle test pretty easily anyway, as long as you get the exhaust fairly hot first.

how do you manage to lose 3 jobs in 1 year? do you rock up on drugs or something?

Shouldn't the composition be identical? Why not just chuck it in a bung in the dump?

Cars sure are expensive time sinks.

Almost certainly, get an exhaust shop to measure it.

If it is creeping with a weak spring a stronger spring will help you get on boost sooner but it may still creep up even higher. Sounds like the internal wastegate simply isn't big enough.

Are they geared differently or not? Different size outlet? What has changed? Why is it better? Why is it worse? Might explain why it is better for street or track if someone has the figures.

Looks like it.

How old are you? that is an awesome price. Sounds like they base premiums entirely on age and nothing else, kind of ridiculous really.

Has a bigger turbo stock, also has a better head, the differences I've personally seen are minimal once you change turbo.

Last time I removed it I sheared two of the bolts off when cracking them with the ratchet, In hindsight drilling them out would be less work than f**king around putting the rail on with everything still there. Regardless I think I will just pay someone next time, with the time it takes and the pain in the ass factor it just isn't worth it.

Ok so finally got off my ass and got most of the work done on the, figured regency would wise up to my dodgy painted rail so pull it all out. Got a stock rail, some deatchwerks 740cc injectors, painted them stock colour, hacked up my loom to get rid of the resistor pack and wire the stock plugs back on. Certainly a lot neater now without the resistor pack, boostworx just twisted all the cables and taped everything so it was pretty dodgy before, used proper heat shrink crimps this time round and now it looks stock as a rock. Got a green sticker for the AFM, bolted the pod down properly. Putting the injectors in was a total prick as I didn't remove the crossover pipe or the TB, took about 2 hours of twisting and f**king around with the rail fouling on everything to get it in there, had to be super careful to not bust the pintle caps when it wanted to foul. Putting the orings in with all the cables and everything there is a bit of a prick as well, managed to wedge a plug between the rail and the intake the first time round, unbolted it and pulled the rail out, then pinched two orings, out again, managed to pinch a different plug, then another f**king oring, finally got it all in properly and had to recrimp a plug whilst in the valley. Now that all that is done time to get a tune, not long hopefully.

If you guys don't have much constructive to say just leave it, this whilst an expensive way is certainly one way to learn.

He is only running 1 bar, run 20psi and have it taper down and the midrange would be massive.

Think there are some in the kando thread

What does that manifold set a regular joe back?

This would be very interesting to see results for as the current IG kandos suck a bag of dicks.

exactly, and if people don't trust status to give an accurate result then we are all f**ked.