Most aftermarket turbos with internal wastegates have boost control problems, EBC is a requirement IMO.
Trying to control flat high boost with big back pressure with a simple linear spring is borderline impossible imo because as the rpm increases it chokes more and more so you need a changing gain factor (the spring) which is only really easily achieved with an electronic controller.
The reason a lot of people manage flat boost on garrets is because they are running much bigger exhaust housings where the turbo doesn't choke up as much. it isn't because it is a "better" designed turbo imo.
nistune is pretty good, why is the tuner having issue controlling 1000cc injectors? unless they are some ancient tech they should be able to be set up to idle fine?
If you decrease backpressure you can increase scavenging hence VE, it is like putting a cork in the exhaust, it will kill power everywhere but especially at high rpm, doesn't make sense for it to gain linearly over the entire power band.
Yes do an application to modify vehicle, go through a full inspection with R33 brakes installed and voila, legally registered r32 with an rb25det.
Do it and don't look back, the rb20 sucks, lower compression, no vct and half a litre less capacity.
f**k using mismatched injectors, great way to get det on one cylinder. I would be getting the set flow tested if I were you as they could be different.
if you want a car that feels fast, usually one with a shit diff and tyres that spins 1st and 2nd with 250kw will feel a lot faster than it really is, eg my 240kw one that had an opening up diff and the tyres were replaced a week later.
Do you want a fast car? Or do you want a car that just feels fast and fun on the street? If the latter then running a smaller turbo (gt28, hypergear ss1pu etc) with big boost will result in the massive midrange kick that really makes a car feel fast on the street, on the track when you are at high rpm it won't be as quick as a laggier 300kw car.
250 is good enough for a street car, can get that with basically stock response and a big midrange kick. Anything more will be more fun but yeah, a bit of a handful if you want a kick in normal driving conditions <100kph without looking like a complete loon.
Opens later, not sooner.
Advancing intake cam means it overlaps more, retarding exhaust cam means it overlaps more. Think of advancing as turning clockwise and visualising the cam profiles.
edit:
good explanation here
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/221200-cam-basics.html
It advances the intake cam, this decreases overlap increasing the intake velocity at low rpm removing reversion but causes a restriction in the top end, surely this would make the idle better not worse, eg it is the opposite of putting a big cam in?