Rolls

I have a set of 6x Deatschwerks 740cc injectors, R33 side feed, they are bolt in with stock plugs, I have even painted them stock colour so they will get through a defect inspection. Brand new $300 more expensive http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb25det/1993-98-rb25det/01j-00-0740-6-detail Came out of my r32 skyline running 260kw with r33 fuel rail/rb25 about 6 months ago. $350 delivered express PM or call me (Roland) on <removed>

Eboost street electronic boost controller with aux window switch to control a relay, very useful to control VCT solenoid with. $250, 2 years old, missing the original cables however it all works fine, was removed as car was totalled http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Electronic-Boost-Controllers/e-Boost-Street-40psi.html Pick up in SA or post. Holds boost perfectly flat on a tiny highflowed rb20 turbo with a wastegate too small, I used 175% more gain after 5500 rpm to get it flat, brilliant boost controller

Does no one even read the advert? I said it has a window switch that can control aux relay eg VCT which is what I used it for.

BUMP $250 + postage

Bump for the great debate that this always is. To make it more interesting which of these two intercoolers would be better for street driving? The bar and plate has more mass and more flow (due to being bigger) however close proximity to the radiator in summer means sitting in traffic will heat soak it worse. 475 x 350 x 76mm core fin and tube $1700 500 x 400 x 90mm bar and plate core $1600 https://www.plazmaman.com/shop_itemdetail.php?itemid=273&cate=67 https://www.plazmaman.com/shop_itemdetail.php?itemid=280&cate=67

It has everything other than the connector for the unit, I believe it is a fairly standard PC power connector that you could cut off an old power supply etc. The connector was left in the car when it was removed.

Yeah even the roof bent, both doors were about 5cm away from closing lol, tail shaft snapped and the exhaust ripped off the end of the turbo, think they whole car is 5cm shorter after the impact. Got $10,500 from insurance so shopping for an XR6T now, found a few around $12k and some modded ones with 400kw around $16k, going to be fun times!

Eboost street electronic boost controller with aux window switch to control a relay. $300, 2 years old, missing the original cables however it all works fine, was removed as car was totalled http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Electronic-Boost-Controllers/e-Boost-Street-40psi.html Pick up in SA or post. Holds boost perfectly flat on a tiny highflowed rb20 turbo with a wastegate too small, I used 175% more gain after 5500 rpm to get it flat, brilliant boost controller

Put car up for sale a few weeks ago then it got written off (( The impact snapped my f**king seat in half! was a big hit, was lying down for the head on which saved me from hitting my head on the steering wheel. Selling the boost controller if anyone is interested (eboost street)

Sounds like you have blown the ECU up by shorting something out, or blown a fuse. Does the ECU have power?

I'm confused, you are putting an engine from a defected car into a non defected car? If so providing the engine is stock you will be fine, when you swap an engine they do an engine number check, however if they notice that it is obviously modified they will refer you for a full roadworthy, eg what happens when you get defected, so if it is modded you will almost certainly need to return it to stock. If the car is registered then you don't need an engine number check and you just fill the form out and away you go, so could get away with mods this way, though imo you should be making an effort to make them all stock and use a high flow, that way you have no issue with getting defected because it WILL happen if you drive a modded skyline.

Got ecutalk or nistune? ECU might have picked up a fault and won't prime the fuel pump because it thinks something is wrong. Perhaps something is shorted out, do the injectors all fire and the engine still run?

You need to put in an application to change engine number, if it is the same engine they will do it in 5 minutes, if it is a different or larger capacity one they may send you back a list of conditions that you must meet and have a full inspection to prove that you have done the items. Defected should not make any difference.

The impact snapped my f**king seat in half! was a big hit, was lying down for the head on which saved me from hitting my head on the steering wheel. Yeah, pretty happy with getting 10.5 for it, going to buy a BF XR6 Turbo for around $15k, looking for something modified with 300+ at the rears, looks like they make that power in their sleep with just a boost increase, also even though they weight 1700kg they handle as well as the old r32 with street suspension, obviously track spec the 32 will beat it but they are very nice around town. Anyone know of any for sale?

And the car has been written off, rear ended at 50kph then pushed into oncoming traffic and had a head on. https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t1.0-9/10530662_10152157638980764_8147808908768981785_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/10468684_10152157638970764_7730849713257069245_n.jpg Will possibly be purchasing the car back and stripping it for parts, will update this thread with a new link if it happens. Getting $10.5k from insurance so I guess that is good news?

THIS is perfect for the street, 260rwkw with flat torque curve from a neo

It will mean something to regency though, eg you can have modifications that you other wise couldn't so you don't have to go part swapping. Cop can defect a brand new car if they want, nothing will stop that.

260kw is the most I'd ever want on the street which is what mine 32 puts out with a 25 + highflowed rb20 turbo, has the response of a stock turbo with 10psi by 2k in 5th, get 14 by 2800 and 18psi by about 3300rpm. Flat torque curve with instant response, still lights up 2nd rolling on the throttle slowly unless I have brand new tyres on the rear, it will break all speed limits in seconds so honestly for the street I'd say it is even too much power tbh. Stick with 250-280 max and keep your stock response, torque is what makes it fun on a street car, 300 unless AWD would be stupid as it will just fry tyres. That is because they are, if I sold my car I'd get an EVO or a XR6 turbo, better performance than a skyline in every way imo, it is only because 6 years ago when I bought my car you couldn't get the others for less than 30k.

Even 250 will be useless without expensive tyres and a diff, you need a replacement diff centre or you will be peeling it out everywhere and put it into a tree when it occasionally does twin up, same with tyres.

Just buy a car with 300rwkw already, if you do buy this car buy a $900 highflow instead, will save you getting defected (you will), and when you are $2k short due to a bunch of things breaking that you didn't expect you will be able to afford them. Just stuff like tyres, random broken stuff, trust me you will get caught out.

Not 300 but mine takes an absolute flogging daily with 260kw, no signs of wear to date, been about 5 years now. Lil old rb20 gearbox has been replaced a few times though! :lol:

Any decent cop will defect you for it and you'll never pass regency without a full engineers cert with emissions test. You can make 350rwkw on a gts-t and > 400kw on a gtr with highflowed OEM replacements, technically not legal but unless they drop your intake piping and measure the compressor they will never get you for it. Afaik they never go to the above effort anyway. Unless you like doing turbo swaps for fun on the weekend imo this is the only way to modify a street car if you drive it daily and want to avoid defects.

How do you make sure it is straight when you weld it back together?

and what welded it back up?

Didn't realise you could put new gel in, how did you do it?