Rolls

More that it is meant to stall if you unplug it, a great way to weed out a large number of after market ECUs.

people do it with adaptronics and a few other ECUs quite regularly, they come with a plug in loom connector so I unless they unscrew it they'd have no idea. Unless you run MAP and they unplug the AFM, but I doubt they are going to bother doing that.

I like the way this man thinks. I really wonder if they read this thread or not, I know I'd be onto it if that was my job.

It might flow outright more due to the increase in turbing sizes, but the bends etc might cause other issue. What if you are making only 300hp, which one would be better then? HG did a test and found it made less power and less response than stock with a power figure around 350hp

If you are putting the stock ECU in you HAVE to change them, you have to change your AFMs as well.

how do you know that?

I figure if you are going aftermarket manifold you want it to be an improvement over stock so why get some shitty design with bad angles?

Dude spent well over 5 minutes with a flash light looking at the fuel rail, injectors, intake manifold, vacuum lines running to everything etc when I went through, though I had gone through with an engine swap that specifically mentioned "standard injection systems retained" on the application so he might have been a bit more anal. If you can be f**ked taking the rail out painting the injectors stock colour is easy to do, just go visit a model shop and match the colour, cost you like $10 for a brush and some paint. Assuming of course you have stock looking injectors and not something with adaptors sticking out all over the place. With the AFM just peel the green sticker off a stock AFM and put it on there, easy as.

The wastegate angle looks horrible, that's worse than a 90 degree bend.

They usually say as long as standard injection and emission gear is in place you are fine. Call them up and ask, provided the injectors and everything else is standard you should be ok. Technically as soon as you change runner length you effect emissions, but so does a FMIC and they let that slide.

Read the DIY guide and set it up properly.

An airflow meter doesn't need intake temperature correction because the way it operates it measures exactly the right amount of air, doesn't matter what humidity, altitude, temperature or anything the method measures exactly the right amount of air. It is only MAP that needs IAT correction. However I am talking temperature ignition/fuel trim, apparently the GTR is the only car that has the IAT sensor, what it does with the signal I am unaware of, Pete at nistune said they could almost certainly set it up to trim fuel/ignition but currently they haven't looked into it.

I'm ok with that. Sorry I'm kind of a dick, you are just going to have to put up with me.

Dude you can't just put an unknown ECU on your car and hope it will work, great way to pop a motor even if it is a good tune, it is tuned for another car, not yours!! Get it tuned properly, why even bother getting an ECU if you aren't going to tune it?

I have a GTR Injector upgrade kit with everything needed to get going for an rb25det, probably also fit rb20dets quite easily as well. Comes with: 6x GTR 440cc Injectors with alloy adaptors for rb25det fuel rail Resistor Pack Alloy Fuel Rail with spacers MagnaFlow Fuel regulator with bracket, speedflow fittings and hoses. Loom connectors and wires for resistor pack and injectors. This is everything you need to get GTR injectors on your rb25det, all you will need is to wire in the loom and get a tune! No stuffing around, 1 purchase and 1 set of shipping with everything you need in working order. Will support up to 270kw with the injectors alone, above 300kw by adjusting the fuel regulator. Have removed these to install 740cc injectors, they are in perfect working order and were pulled off the car tonight. $600 posted to your door anywhere in Australia. Contact me via PM or call me on 0423 277 771 What it looks like installed on your car: [ Comes with the bracket, speedflow fittings and the hoses.

It's true, it isn't really much more than that.

If that's the case why not put an rb30 in it haha

Can always restamp a block if you want the matching numbers, I'm not sure if it is a material thing eg as long as its there, or if it is true to the metal original kind of thing.

Rod to stroke ratio and just generally the stroke compare to the bore is what determines stuff like this.

I just assumed you had an R33 because the picture looked like one, but my bad you have an R34 Just nistune your stock ECU then, simple.

We need to sticky the misfire thread again

if that is what you are after put an L20 in it, if you don't you are a hypocrit.

If you have the cash just buy a complete forged rb30det block from rips or red r racing, will have the performance and reliability to back the bling looks (lol)

That is right, I had to use a S1 rb25det TPS as the S2 one didn't work with the R32 ecu. So yeah you have to "wire in" a few things, not very difficult though, but if you aren't electrically useful then you would need to pay someone to do it.

Lol so I can spend $10k on a lawyer only to to get my money back? Sounds like a great Idea!