Rolls

Am I dreaming with the price? Just car evaluated it at $10,000 this year

I have a set of 6x Deatschwerks 740cc injectors, R33 side feed, they are bolt in with stock plugs, I have even painted them stock colour so they will get through a defect inspection. Brand new $250 more expensive http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb25det/1993-98-rb25det/01j-00-0740-6-detail Came out of my r32 skyline running 260kw with r33 fuel rail/rb25 about 1.5 months ago. $400 delivered express PM or call me (Roland) on 0423 277 771

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/444161-fs-sa-r32-gts-t-fresh-respray-registered-with-260rwkw-neo-25l-11k/

I'm considering selling my trust old R32 GTS-T after about 6 years of owning it, I have a decent job and am looking to trade up to something new, maybe an EVO, XR6T etc so am putting this up as bit of a maybe sale if I get an offer I am happy with, if not then I am still quite content owning it for another few years. I only have one picture with the respray which is here, it has silver dishes rims now instead of the black ones: Mods: RB25DET Neo block with R33 intake and ancillaries from burnt out auto R34 skyline with 70,000 kms on it. Car registered with 2.5L engine R32 ECU with Nistune tuned by Pete L from Nistune themselves. 550cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Apexi Pod with steel intake pipe Original hybrid intercooler Eboost street running 17psi with window switch controlling the VCT solenoid Bilstein shocks and whiteline springs from a SydneyKid kit, about 15,000kms on them. GTR Swaybar New bushes all the way around the car Immoboliser Manual 5 speed rb20det box Highflowed GCG turbo making 260rwkw 3" straight through exhaust R33 298mm slotted discs and callipers HD clutch that showed no signs of wear when gearbox was swapped, very soft and easy to drive. Silver dished rims 17x9 and 17x8 at the front with federal 595ss 235s and 225s on them with good tread Nismo fuel pump Deleted spoiler with holes filled in and painted over. The good: Suspension is stiffer/lower than stock but not by much meaning around town it is still very comfortable to drive and will not bottom out. Car has been registered with the 2.5L engine swap and been through regency, have a "letter of exemption - modified vehicle" that sits in the glove box to show mr policeman. Car has been through regency twice with all modifications except the boost controller and passed first go each time. Engine is from a 100% stock auto R34 skyline that was burnt out, didn't even have an exhaust and only had 60,000kms on it, removed the motor and installed it myself with some help from friends. With the VCT and small highflow the car drives like a v8, minimal turbo lag with 12psi by 2600rpm and 17psi by 3300rpm, holds boost all the way to 7600rpm redline making ~250-260kw depending on dyno, peak torque from 2.8k to 7k meaning a very large extremely streetable power band, will spin up 2nd in the dry rolling on the throttle unless you have brand new tyres on the rear, fantastic around town to drive. Very safe tune done with knock ears, around 11:1 afr's in mid range, 11.5:1 in the top end, should go forever as there is not even a hint of detonation, tuned it on 19psi as well and only run it at 17psi for street as it only loses about 8kw in the top end, midrange feels identical Dyno sheet: The bad: Car has a respray everywhere other than bonnet and rear bar due to being keyed about a year ago and insurance footing the bill, bonnet is still in very good condition and paint matched well. Rear guards were rolled and had rust in them so there is a small 1cm rust hole in the rear left guard, most of these cars this age have rust here except not visible. Interior is old with the trim near drivers door cracked due to heat/age. Rubber seals are cracked on both doors but do not leak. Windscreen seal is loose making a weird creaking noise especially in cold weather and needs to be removed/refitted to fix it. Carpet behind drivers seat has been cut due to a spill, only visible if you pull the drivers seat all the way forward. Only has rb20 box however the last one lasted 6+ years of > 250kw before needing to be changed, imo rb20 box is fine for street driving and will take lots of abuse, drifting and regular track work however will require a rb25 box. Some gutter rash on rims Final say: I've owned this car for a long time and nearly everything has been replaced on it at some stage, it is an old car but in my opinion looks very tidy for it's age with top end performance, the fact it passes regencey is a big plus due to everything appearing stock and the engine swap being approved. I have over $20k of receipts from the previous owner and another $5k of receipts from Jaustech for various services and replacements. Price is high at $11k but that is as I really am not fussed if I do not sell the car and happy to continue driving it for a few more years, however if you are after a good example with awesome performance you will enjoy this car. No test drives unless you can show me you have the money/pay a deposit, happy to answer messages/calls but only serious buyers, inspections once again only if you can show you are serious as I do not have much spare time. Would consider swaps for BF XR6T with cash your way also. Call/msg myself (roland) on 0423 277 771, I check my PMs fairly regularly also.

Looks cool but I wonder how accurate it is, can never beat a proper db test on a car, a speaker just isn't going to create all the same highs and lows that you can't hear with our ears which get absorbed as well.

I've done a neo conversion with R32 rb20det computer, what else needs to be done that you haven't got to yet? You will need either an ECU that can control the VCT or a window switch to do so, the ignitors and the CAS also won't plug into the stock loom, or have you transplanted an R34 loom?

I know you are but what am I?

wut

What is the best result kw wise with full boost by 3500rpm these days, any improvement over earlier models?

Problems I can see so far are the valve would have to operate at double the speed of a normal valve, you would also always get some form of overlap due to the valve cavity where the intake/exhaust meet, though if coupled with direct injection you could remove this.

Anyone got any actual thoughts on whether the increased surface area could help with cylinder filling/emptying?

I just had an idea, a single valved engine, eg one massive valve on each cylinder, then a second valve or even throttle body in the intake that closes when the exhaust stroke is occuring. The logistics of this surely would be no more difficult than a typical 2 valve head, it would just require a different valve design for the intake, the increased surface area of the valve would surely be beneficial?

If you are planning on making 500rwkw you'll probably need to mod a few things! That is going to be a massive amount of fuel.

Definitely check the cylinders out, then I would throw some oil in them regardless, hand turn it over or use the starter with no spark plugs in. Or you could just start it, probably will run fine and you'll know soon enough if it had enough oil/had any rust in it! (don't do this) The obvious thing is chance all the fluids as well.

mate said fixed all his clunking, guess I'll grab one shortly

This guys magna burnt to the ground because of a turbo timer, remember reading about it years ago, engine kept running after the fire started and just pumped huge amounts of fuel into the fire. http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-37918.html http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:ULZws-7uEDUJ:www.aussiemagna.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-37918.html+&cd=7&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=au

A gauge is a gauge, what is a "nicer" one going to do? waste of money Fire hazard as if you crash your car and get a fuel leak, you turn the ignition off and get out the car, engine keeps running pumping fuel into the mess, if you have a fire it will just keep fuelling it and nothing you can do. You need to get the wiring diagram and figure out what it is wired into, or pay someone to remove it for you. Only really need boost gauge for tuning, otherwise the stock one is good enough to see when you are on full boost or not.

Get rid of volts and vacuum as they are completely unnecessary especially as you already have 2 other boost gauges (hint they do the same thing), move them around so you can see your speedo properly and you will be fine. Also get rid of the turbo timer, it is a fire risk and unnecessary, plus a defect (because it is a fire risk).

If people are so cheap they won't spend the $200 to get a personal license (even though they should get a tuners license) then I doubt getting rid of the trial version will stop them, they will probably just steal someone elses license code or get 20 people to chip in and do that. Do you have checks in the software to stop people sharing license keys?

Pretty sure they don't make a trial version of nistune anymore, you should email pete/matt and say this is the only change you want to make, they might be able to help you out or point you in the direction of someone who can do it for basically free, they are both good blokes so I'm sure they will at least suggest something. If they do have a trial version, let us all know! http://www.nistune.com/contact.php

So not an industry to get into if you want money? Completely agree with experience being everything with something like that.

Mate called up CBC and they said they can do him something that should work for $120, going to see how that goes and buy one if it is any good.

Surely I'm not the first person with a clunking tailshaft? I'll find out from them what they are worth.

Whats the money like working as a tuner in these countries?

Yeah I assumed I would need to replace the entire uni joint, where can I buy one other than nissan?