Rolls

rod bolts don't just snap for no reason, you either have to accidentally downshift to 2nd and do 10,000rpm or build issue.

What caused it to snap? if it was recently built probably a poor build. You never see this happen with a factory motor.

Just pop the bonnet you'll probably see that the intake pipe has been blown off completely. Get brand new clamps and she will be sweet

Yeah I get you, a compression tester is testing dynamic compression though as the engine is turning over and breathing. Static compression is simply maths, you can't really test it.

My bad I thought you were asking about the poncams, I can tell you right now that dyno isn't happy. My mate had his GT3076 rb30 with poncams tuned there on 18psi and it only made 260kw. edit: same tuner as well pete puts a lot of it down to the neo.

Yes

Doesn't look like a huge improvement spool wise, down on power as well?

I think went from 280 to 300, there is a dyno sheet before and after I believe.

You'll need some exotic fuel to get around detonation at that level with these turbos.

Different amounts of air yes, but the compression RATIO is still the same. It doesn't matter if you double the amount of air in the cylinder, it still compresses the same ratio. What you are talking about is dynamic compression.

Boost won't pop it, bad tuning will. You are just as likely to pop the motor running 18psi as you are 25psi if its tuned badly. Keep it cool, keep detonation away and chances are it will live for years at that power level.

You will never get valve float bad enough to smash a valve especially multiple valves. How? The cyclinder shape is the same hence so is the volume of the cylinder as you haven't changed the stroke. Sure it will fill better, but the static compression has not changed.

What rear housing, internal/external gate?

I think flutter can sound good, it just gets annoying if you have it all day long.

Given with E85 you should be able to make 300kw even with a GT3071 I see no reason to go for a 76 unless you want >300kw. I see no issue with screwing a bit more boost in, I mean why would you stop with the 3076 anyway, you'd just keep screwing more boost in to make more power. Matt from nistune made 300kw with poncams and a neo rb25 with a 0.82 internal gate 3071 on BP98! Probably the best result I've ever seen, was done at morpowa here in Adelaide by Pete who is also from Nistune, he reckons the dyno is far from happy. Matt does have very high quality parts on his car, proper jap intercooler and everything else is not cheap. If you go on the nistune forums you can see the dyno sheet and discussion surrounding it.

I had an rb20 that made 160kw stock and read 110 across the board, still going today without issue. Puffed a bit of smoke when cold but still made power and ran fine. Do this and run a thicker oil. It will reduce dynamic compression.

You hate bovs and flutter more than most people hate rapists.

Just pull lots of fuel around the rpm where it stumbles ~500, this should help it stop flooding when it starts to read double air and run rich.

Just out of curiosity how do you evaluate your oils, do you go through oil analysis?

It isn't that difficult, ask questions.

DONT DRIVE IT if you have low oil pressure you will completely destroy the engine. Get it trailered to a workshop so they can get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on there. Make a thread in forced induction and people will help you, dont post in here anymore.

neo is already solid lifters

Or just settle for a neo with VCT and a 3L bottom end. A lot cheaper!

If that's all you want to make why not just get HG lol or any other generic highflow.

Is there any real disadvantage to going IG and then going 'yep it is shit' and welding on an external gate and welding the flapper shut at the same time?