Rolls

That isn't actually that bad. Most people pay that locally for some hack workshop to do it. Why don't you try ERD or all of the other local ones first? Or why don't you just buy a neo off here? They come up for sale fairly often if you search every week. Don't buy anything unless you speak to a builder, they will have all their own preferred parts. That is way out of his budget.

Top post Roy, first comparison showing why the IG sucks, all I've heard until now was "it just sucks". Cheers.

The purpose of increasing overlap at low rpm is to increase speed and hence VE yes?

A second hand motor is guaranteed to be build perfectly with zero issues, it isn't guaranteed to have had a good life, however unless someone has put an aftermarket ECU on it and turbo with bad tuning causing it to detonate, or had oil starvation there is almost zero chance it will fall apart. A great way to get a known motor is to pull one out of a crashed automatic car with stock everything. A build motor is a complete gamble, has the builder built these motors before? Remember the guys at nissan were spitting out 10 motors a day for years, they were absolute professionals in everyway. If you build a motor how do you know the parts won't have issues, how do you know they will balance it properly, can you trust them to get the tolerances right, can you trust that they will even measure the tolerances? What about if they bore the block, will the use a torque plate? Will they use a proper torque plate? Was the head they used on the engine warped and machined flat, if so it could crack the camshaft 10,000kms later (mine did). What about preparing all the parts, will they use the correct lube? Will they use plastigauges and check the tolerances a second time when everything is torqued together? What about simple stuff like installing the rings correctly, they might have done it before but accidents happen. As you can see there are a 1000 places you can go wrong with building a motor, if the builder/assembler has not done an RB before bail, if the builder has not done 10 RBs before bail, if he has not done one in the last year bail. You want someone who does these engines every month. Do they offer a warranty? If not why don't they? Do they outsource labour to other companies eg machining etc, if the machinist stuffs up and he installs it and the motor dies will he warrant his work or will he tell you it was the machinest fault and not his? End of the day you should just buy a short block from a reputable workshop like red r racing, racepace etc. Saying "I trust my machine shop to do a good job." is like going "lalalala" and sticking your head in the sand, you are just hoping they will do a good job, you have no idea if they actually will, they might do the best job they can, but how will this job stack up against nissan? It is more of a gamble than buying a second hand motor, I can guarantee you this. I see more popped rebuilt motors than I see popped stockers. An unknown condition 2nd hand motor is no differnet to an unknown built motor. Who says the built motor will hold more power? How do you know it will? How do you know it will even hold stock power levels? You don't, you are just guessing. A stock motor is going to cost you less than half the price and imo has even better chance of lasting, don't buy some random motor, buy something with some history, eg I found an automatic R34 that had been torched, everything was 100% stock and unchanged, even had stock rims and exhaust, pretty good guarantee there. I bought a $9000 rebuild rb25 with forged everything, the motor was a piece of shit, the camshaft snapped, the thing rattled and leaked oil, everything was loose, wrong gaskets were used, all round it was rubbish, luckily I basically got the engine for free with the car, and to top it off this was a well known performance skyline workshop that built the motor, they just weren't well known for building engines. Either buy a stock motor with history, or buy a short block with warranty from a proper performance engine builder with a known reputation, anything else is a gamble and I highly do not recommend it. I can you see where I am coming from here?

Exactly, either go a second hand motor, or spend $10k on a long block from red r racing, rips or any of the other major workshops that pump them out almost as often as nissan did.

second hand motor is definitely the better option, especially if you are just getting randoms to put the rebuild together, highly doubt it will be any more reliable.

My mate put his pod via a silicon joiner through the stock IC hole into where the wheel arch stock front mount is located. The difference is night and day, but what about water/mud in winter etc, do you guys see any issue in mounting it here? It seems like such a an easy and effective modification. Edit: stock place in a GTS-T, so I guess you guys would need to make another hole, but regardless thoughts?

I am also in the need of an r32 ignition barrel with key, PM away!

some gate action

engines are a flamin mongrel, well done giving it a go yourself.

If its a heap of shit put chemiweld in it and drive it until it blows, then bin it. or compression/leak down test it like normal people, then pull head off.

only works at 300rpm lol

What does it read on the gauge on the dash? Will explain if it is running more boost than standard or not. Also It is in inHG not psi, google can do the conversion for you though, just type "20 inches of mercury in pounds per square inch" it might be millimetres actually, i forget, will say inHg or mmHg on the dial depending.

Only issue is nitrous is difficult to tune properly and finding a tuner that has experience isn't as easy as finding a plain old turbo tuner.

Just FYI a FMIC and 3.5" exhaust will increase the boost above standard, usually quite a bit as well. There is a chance the previous owner modifiied the stock boost solenoid to run 7psi all the time, not the 2 step 4/7psi where it switches over at 4500rpm. With the free flowing exhaust and intake it isn't uncommon to see the boost rise to 9-10psi. If it has gone as high as 10psi the ECU will be running very rich when on boost, you will most likely see clouds of blackish smoke coming out the exhaust when giving it a bootfull, nothing wrong with this, in fact it means the engine is running quite safe and cool, it however won't make much power and will use slightly more fuel.

It is in the fuel tank, you can't see it unless you remove it, and removing it is a pain in the ass. There is a possibility that the previous owner installed an external pump, you'll be able to see that in about 3 seconds if you look in the boot though. If he installed an external pump it will always be noisy and unless you get good quality lines it will also smell.

Think about this, if the fuel pump only runs when priming where does the fuel come from when you are driving along? Answer is it runs ALL the time on ALL cars. Standard I think they run at two speeds, lower at idle and normal the rest of the time. It is summer though so almost all fuel pumps are noisy this time of the year, aftermarket especially. When you say runs all the time, do you mean when you put the ignition on but don't start the car it runs literally for ever and does not stop priming? If so then the previous owner has most likely installed an aftermarket pump and done very dodgy dangerous wiring keeping it on all the time, if so fix the wiring, however most aftermarket pumps are loud, nothing you can really do about this unless you go a nismo in tank pump, these are probably the quietest you can buy. Do you mean boost controller? It will definitely run overly rich when on boost but at idle etc it won't change anything. If it REALLY smells of fuel you may actually have a fuel leak, would explain why the pump is going mental and the car stinks. Most likely that you just have a car with dodgy sensors (O2, coolant temp etc) or a boost leak (old vac hoses leaking or silicon joiners split which are causing it to run extra rich as metered air is escaping under boost. Steps to take: Ask the previous owner if it has an aftermarket fuel pump, if aftermarket then nothing to worry about but check wiring. Check for fuel leaks If all the above checks out get someone who knows skylines to have a listen, chances are it isn't actually that loud and is normal, if not then you may have a failing pump, get a replacement Fuel smell: Check you have a cat converter, chances are it has been bashed out, car will always stink without a cat. Check for fuel leak Get a consult cable or go to a workshop that has one and check for sensor failures. Check yourself for air leaks, if you cant find any pay a workshop to pressure test your intake, it is simple to do and will find 99% of leaks. Let us know how you go Check all silicon joiners, if you have an aftermarket FMIC chances are it has dodgy hose clamps that aren't sealing. Check all vac lines are on properly, if you have a boost gauge your vac should be -20 when throttling off or -16ish when idling, if it is lower you most certainly have an air leak, however you might have a minor leak that isn't obvious at idle, only on boost. Only 100% way to check for leaks is to pressure test intake with an adaptor on the pod, you will hear whistling when on boost if there is a leak. No easy way to check pump is aftermarket, removing it is a pain in the ass, only do this if you are planning on changing it, most drop in pumps have similar/identical fittings to stock. Honestly if you just bought this car and you aren't familiar with them nor a handy home mechanic I would take it to a performance workshop, they will be able to run a quick diagnostic with consult cable, check for air leaks, run it up on the dyno to check AFRs etc and just make sure there are no major problems with it. Shouldn't cost you more than $150 them to do some basic tests.

He probably has either an aftermarket pump or a pump that is dying, most aftermarkets are loud, dying pumps can also be loud. Oh they also tend to be much louder in summer as well. Unburnt fuel out the exhaust indicates a tune problem, probably due to an air leak causing the car to run rich, dead sensors, coupled with running more boost than standard putting the stock tune out. Tell him to take it to a performance shop to get it looked at.

It is cheaper to just trial and error model a compressor wheel, I would go to the point of saying I don't think it is even possible to correctly model a turbine wheel in flow dynamics software. They would use existing models generated from trial and error data to "design" new wheels.

Water cools better and has more heat capacity, need more heat capacity? add more water, or add more cooling. If appropriately chosen gear is used it can work fantastically in any scenario, the main issue is the appropriate gear for the engine/turbo combination can often weigh so much it is not worth while, eg a track car. For a street car if you don't mind adding 100kg of water I can imagine it cooling any system you can dream up, even with a undersized radiator it would take a long time to get heat soaked.

If you are running more boost you don't need it as big.

I like this idea

Did not know that FMIC was a defect in VIC, they don't even question it at regency in SA. I thought NCOP was ratified anyway so that all states essentially should be basing their laws on the same text?

Spin the cas by hand and you will hear everthing click and spark, beware though as you will get a nasty backfire through the intake due to one of the valves being shut, fuel and then spark if you have any fuel pressure. I did this by accident and my mate and I went deaf for about 5 minutes.

Water to air vs air to air, how is the air to air not a defect then?