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Rolls

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Everything posted by Rolls

  1. Alcohol burns slower than petrol, it is conceivable that an explosion might be slightly less powerful, or due to there being more fuel it explodes faster/slower. I'm not sure but it is plausible that it may sound different.
  2. Exactly, 10 oil changes and you've bought an entire motor! It is retarded.
  3. It is always best to have your gate/spring run whatever boost you want and use an EBC to tweak it, if you have a spring that runs say 12psi an want to run 20psi it can be a bit annoying to set up on some turbos. Usually you just set everything up at xpsi and leave it, is there a reason why you want to change it?
  4. I've heard reputable tuners say it is quite a good method. Another tuner I know just uses a microphone wrapped in a towel and wedged under the intake manifold with no filtering, he said the towel blocks out most the noise and is really good, this is providing you use proper isolation headphones, eg good quality canal ones. Microphone and a cheap PA is very cheap if you build it from parts at jaycar.
  5. Everything, intake temps, coolant temps, exhaust temps.
  6. Yeah he is talking about generic china ebay turbos.
  7. Perhaps however they can still take >20psi/300kw on pump fuel. As long as you keep heat and detonation under control you can run >20 psi on a stock motor no issue.
  8. It isn't the psi that kills motors, it is the torque and detonation, forget the psi limit. If you get a big enough turbo you could make 500kw on 15psi, doesn't mean that an unopened rb25 would be fine with it.
  9. You'll also have a much lighter wallet!
  10. Get some knock ears on it and confirm if it is knock, don't drive WOT until you do this. I'm serious, not WOT! No one said it doesn't, but it ALWAYS happens to people who don't have properly tuned cars lol.
  11. Are you just blindly searching "skyline turbo" and clicking on the cheapest one you see? Seriously do some research!
  12. Same as my reply in the other 3409873 thread with this IDENTICAL problem. Combination of bad spark from bad plugs or bad coils, or more boost meaning a 0.8mm gap is needed or too much boost on stock ecu/tune causing engine to run extra rich (9-10:1) which needs an even stronger spark than stock to avoid getting blown out. So fix your plugs first, then your coils, then get a remap so you aren't running super dooper rich. One or most of these things will be needed to fix your problem.
  13. Yeah he does, does a pretty damn good job of holding high boost considering the very high exhaust pressure these turbos run.
  14. Well if it is helpful it happens 100% of the time in the two threads I listed for myself, guaranteed repeatability if that helps you guys diagnose it.
  15. In those two threads I posted it happens 100% of the time for me, it does in fact post the post, but it gives you the error as well, so people often end up reposting the post 100 times thinking it hasn't posted. Does it happen every time for you on those two threads?
  16. Ah ok, strange. Prank how hard is to run a debugger on stuff like this, can you post a post in one of the threads and step through code line by line to see what is actually returning the error?
  17. I have an idea, on another forum I frequent when threads get in the 100 page range the deleted posts in that thread start to get towards an entire page of deleted posts, this puts the page count as a whole page greater than the amount of posts the users can see, it results in a page that doesn't exist, but the forum software thinks it should, causes strange things to happen. Maybe put that to them?
  18. Don't, seriously don't load it up on boost at all until you get the tune checked. Won't cost much to tweak it hopefully, just depends how out it is now.
  19. Less restriction, hence same airflow produces less boost. You are probably making the same power yes? edit: You said exhaust cam not intake cam, it has now advanced the exhaust timing, hence less energy is wasted out the exhaust, the turbo then sees less energy and spools less hence less boost. Makes sense to me, your car is probably running much efficiently, however it is probably slightly laggier in regards to boost response, it will flow better in the high rpm now though. Your power curve will have shifted towards redline slightly, you will make more power though, that is if you get it retuned on 18psi, DEFINITELY get it retuned, the load points will have completely changed, you could be detonating driving it like that.
  20. Also explains why 20psi with all factors the same isn't double the air of 10psi, it is actually 24.7 and 34.7 psi, so a ~1.3x increase in air, not 2x increase in air. And explains why you make less power the higher up a mountain you go.
  21. Might be inches of mercury and not millimeters, and hence -0.99 inches, but that = -25mmHg which is far too high vacuum. I'm stumped, it should be either of these units, I don't even know what else you can measure vacuum in. It is possible that 9.9 is just the maximum reading and it can't read any higher vacuum than that, when you back off at high revs does it read a number higher than 99 ?
  22. what boost was it tuned at?
  23. Most likely -9.6mmHg then, that is fairly low. My skyline reads about negative 14-15 and negative 20 when backing off at higher rpm.
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