Rolls

yeah

The only reason I can see to run meth is because you run into issues with ignition. 50:50 by volume would be more water as meth is less dense, density of methanol is 791g per L so you'd end up with 1.26x more water than meth. Eg you mix by volume and use 1L of meth, 1L of water, you actually have 791g of meth and 1000g of water. You can instantly see why water can evaporate more heat as well due to there just being more of it per litre, also methanol burns so it will add to the heat. Basically water does a much better job of cooling than meth can.

Still have this for sale? How much?

can anyone confirm if the VL commodore speedo cable is the same length and fittings?

peedo Cable R32 Skyline (1989 - 1994) VL Commodore (1986 - 1988) can someone confirm this is true?

Are these replaceable if so who sells them, I've read a few things that say they are permanently crimped in and not replaceable and recommended a one piece tailshaft, this doesn't seem right? I thought the entire uni was detachable from the tail shaft?

Video ?

Depends on what you do with it, if you daily drive it 10-40 will be great, if you flog it for hours or track it go the 15-50, in this 40c weather the 50 would be better even for daily driving but it doesn't last more than a month or so so 40 I would still put in.

Anyone got a plug and play ECU for an R32 GTS-T, something other than a nistune, trying to diagnose whether the issues I'm having are injector related or a problem with the ECU. Needs to work with the MAF and have a plug and play connector, not really fussed which ECU just want to borrow it for a few days. PM me if you have something, cheers.

That is a good f**king spot, it is stuff like this that makes me so nervous about ever considering building my own engine, even if it does state the writing is on exhaust side, it is completely plausible that they stuffed it up.

Sell it and get a 2530 at least or a hypergear high flow, will make 230-240kw with stock response and save money as you'll just end up doing that eventually anyway, no point getting two tunes when you could just get one and get the power you want straight up

nvm

it may make it worse depending on what "improve" means to you

You can run no coolant through your turbo and it will be fine providing you cool it down considerably before turning the engine off. The only real reason is to keep the oil temps under control, it is rare a turbo gets so hot it actually melts and warps studs/housing, though I have seen it on a GTRS running 20psi on a 25 that was being tracked. I wasn't aware it thermo siphoned when you shut the car off, so it makes a big difference where you plumb your coolant lines from, something worth remembering.

With different piston expansion rates should you adjust those measurements eg if the piston is say a cast piston that barely expands or an old style forged piston that has poor expansion rate and moves a lot?

I've asked this many times without a good answer, water cools better than methanol so I never understood why it is used, obviously methanol burns as well but I don't really see the issue of just using water. edit: http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1801 Apparently if using large amounts of injection if you use just water you can blow the flame out, if you start titrating it with methanol you increase the total amount of liquid you can inject before causing a misfire. Eg if x ml/min of pure water is the max you can run before a misfire, if you use 50:50 you can inject x + y ml/min, you'll have slightly less heat absorbed per unit of liquid, but total heat absorbed will be greater due to being able to use more volume. Makes sense.

I use an eboost street boost controller which has a digital guage but I hide it in the car, so I can look at it if tuning or troubleshoot but no point having a big tacky LOOK MR POLICEMAN gauge in your car imo. Ignore the knock maps, they aren't reliable enough to be trusted, nissan only detect knock at low rpm as well, at high rpm there is too much mechanical noise so they are ignored. Sometimes they will pick up knock that isn't real knock and sometimes they will miss real knock. You could put -2 degrees in the entire map and copy it to the knock maps, at least you will know when they are being used. I would personally use the TPLimit and not nuke it completely, add 10% to the max you ever see in top gear, that way if you blow your boost control line off and run infinite boost you are less likely to pop the motor.

R&R isn't really a thing as much as a zone in the tune, there is a max airflow limit which will cut the engine out but R&R is just the upper end of the revs at high load, eg it is very rich and retarded, a retune will fix this as they will put appropriate values in those cells.

Real knock as in pinging, can you hear it? If it is registering knock with 700hp on stock pistons it wasn't your mate that broke the rings it was inevitable!! Re the pistons, as long as they are the right size and the rings are installed properly, most pistons fail from pinging tune or installation error, almost never from just too much combustion pressure.

GCG are expensive, plenty of guys that will do just as good a job for cheaper. They also don't like doing warranty jobs, had two compressor wheels that made love to the housing, had a look at the balancing bolt and it was hacked to shit so I suspect they had problem balancing it, blamed it on "bad tune" each time supposedly overheating it on low boost.

My vote is this, fuel reg blown off would make it do something funny, probably also the clamp smashing into the bonnet along with it, might even be an intercooler hose missing. I've blown my intercooler piping off a few times with the old clamps I had, made a huge bang as the pipe would smack the bonnet and then I'd get a huge cloud of black smoke/backfires, sounded pretty bad when it happened, thought I had put a rod through the block the first time. as soon as I replaced mine with these I never had a problem again running at 18psi

My old 1980s diesel mazda E2200 van was like that, I just kept adding oil to it and never once drained it, would burn/leak a whole 5L every 6 months lol.

I'm guessing his settings are wrong, download your tune and post it up on the nistune forums, they will do their best to fix it.

The point is the same, the mosfet isn't switching.

Oh so the ECU isn't sending power, sounds like an issue to ask the nistune boys over on their forum, matt and pete would figure it out for you, http://forum.nistune.com/