Rolls

Got $4k in your pocket for all the supporting mods?

Just a tip, you can get better fuel economy with NO O2 sensor if you get your car tuned without it. This is because you can lean it out beyond stoich to ~15:1 etc on cruise. Emissions go out the window as running lean makes lots of nitrogen compounds but it will use less fuel.

Did you ever pressure test the intake?

I thought it was simple, I called up a shop 'I have a soft intake pipe sucking shut, how much for a metal one with bov and cam vent holes installed?" they replied $200 and it was done the next day.

Deep breath sarge, it is just an intake pipe

I just assumed he had done it like everyone else and like hypergear says you MUST do with his turbos.. lol

Everyone has done that... cost me $200 installed for boost worx to do it.

and even with all the right parts you've got things like silicon joiners leaking, gaskets leaking, broken studs causing gasket to fail to seal, valve float due to old head, injectors unbalanced, etc etc. Leaks and restrictions seem to be the biggest cause from what I've seen.

Making big power requires that everything is basically perfect, not surprising that so many people have issues. Just look at the amount of threads in FI about cars not making the power they should.

Just drop the exhaust.

I think I just left the second plug unplugged, not sure what it is for.

blade design

Using an rb20det ecu, sorry man.

E85 makes a massive difference, the shorter runner lengths with a front facing plenum do A LOT more than the shorter distance the air has to travel.

a new dump is a shitload cheaper than an external gate

You mean the E85 gave it better response?

I don't believe you.

Deatchwerks plug in with no mods, no rewiring needed.

Just make sure you don't need an aftermarket rail etc.

In the future go 'what is my goal?' and then figure out what parts are needed to obtain that goal, don't do it backwards and go I want this part but I don't know why.

Of course not. The whole point is why get a mail order tune when you can just pay for someone to dyno tune it properly with knock detection and wideband logging equipment. You won't save any money in the long run and you will end up with a 'guess' tune that is far from spot on. 12.5 AFR at peak torque in a country like Australia where we see 40c summers? 'I think' isn't really good enough when you have a two thousand dollars worth of engine to replace if it goes pop. Sometimes you have to beat a dead horse to get the point across.

I don't trust high flow injectors, even with a flow test the spray patterns can be butchered. Buy something known and trusted.

Looks about right to me, torque drops off pretty hard so makes sense for it to stay flat.

holy shit look at that AFR at peak torque, 13.2:1 !!?? it is 12:1 at the lowest the rest of the way, absolutely no safety margin there at all. no thanks

Yeah by upping the rail pressure, this is dodgy and not recommended. By the time you buy a reg and rail you could have just got new injectors anyway.... Not on a mail tune you aren't, a mail tune for 250kw on stock injectors is playing with fire! Especially if you have to bump up the rail pressure, then you are completely guessing! this is a bad idea toshi! Wut? The duty is completely controlled by the ecu.. the fuel pump might mean more fuel is injected at that duty cycle if the old one was failing, if it wasn't failing then it won't make any difference, that is the whole point of the regulator? No more of a f**k around than any other ECU imo. Z32 afm will be needed for any turbo over 230-240ish kw unless you go a MAP based ecu like adaptronic, wolf etc.Being as you have R33 with VCT and the R33 ECU cannot be nistuned you need an R32 or Z32 ECU, the R32 one always works, I've read of a few issues with Z32, R32 ecu however can't control your VCT solenoid so you need a window switch. If you are going a big turbo I recommend a boost controller anyway, and the eboost street and eboost 2 both have a window switch built in. Window switch is about $100, boost controller is around $400 R32/Z32 ecu $100 nistune ~$400 Z32 AFM $300 Injectors $? depends what you go for anywhere from a few hundred to $700 Highflow turbo $700-1500 1 Clutch if you aren't running something tricked up already $1000 Tune $400-800 Total: ~$3700 or full standalone ecu, 1000-1800 ish Z32 AFM or window switch needed Injectors Turbo Clutch Tune Total $4200+ You might think you can do it cheaper, but I can guarantee you you can't. You will almost certainly come into problems like air leaks, dodgy intercoolers that aren't good enough, broken studs, installation costs, more broken parts, diagnostic fee if you pay someone. Make sure you realise that this will be at least a 4000 upgrade once you factor in needed new tyres and all the other crap that comes with having lots of power