Rolls

I just assumed he was getting a retune... waste of time if you use stock ecu imo. edit: nistune is next, the car will run like an absolute dog without a retune, get a 10psi spring and leave it at that, even 10psi will have it coughing and spluttering though with the bigger turbo.

I haven't heard of many people safely pushing more than 230kw with stock injectors, at 14psi hard to say as I don't know what turbo you have but you will probably be ok. If you are running stock AFM you will be close to maxing that out as well.

Put two on there, the more the better really.

Of course it can, it just depends on your power level, which if it is anything over stock I doubt the stock injectors would flow enough.

I mean even the cheapest oil out there is going to be fine for daily driving, it is only when you are out tracking it or giving it a good run through the hills that you want to better oils that don't break down and burn. However when the price difference is so tiny, you might as well get a known really good oil like Motul 8100 but don't spend more than that, eg the chrono oil etc which is over $120, that isn't value for money. Leave it in there until next change, but next time go something a bit more quality.

Sounds more like the tune was the best $1k you spent haha

When it comes down to easy to use software, which package comes out on top, the only software I've ever used is Motec and it is brilliant, it however is prohibitively expensive to buy. Pretty much all the ECUs listed have enough features for most people to do what they want, when it comes down to just being easy to use, intuitive and painless what software wins here? If would be interesting to hear from people who have used multiple packages, always hard to tell what the case is when someone recommends something if that is all they have used, or they have compared it to others. lol

buy a short block from red r racing or someone, got a guarantee they wont f**k it up.

Cheapest way is to just buy a supra lol. f**k swapping shit around lol.

I just assumed he had an R33.

Cheaper option would be to buy a second hand motor in known condition. You know it won't fall apart from poor workman ship like some rebuilds will, they have a proven track record and will hold 250-300 for many years if tuned correctly and never see detonation and are kept cool. Honestly I would do that, you can get a s1/2 rb25 for $1000 if you look around, I personally sold a forged rb25 short motor for $1k with only 7000kms on it. Or you could fork out for a neo for around $2k which has some advantages, better head, better rods, newer with less kms.

Can you post some specs on it? I honestly wouldn't trust something like that, they probably have developed it to undercut their other products and make a decent margin on it. Semi synth sounds av. I would go for one of the full synths mentioned in this thread for $59, you don't need the engine flush crap.

dont you guys have jobs and work to do instead of bickering on here? : p

STATUS' dyno doesn't lie.

You would have had exactly the same issues with a garret.

Fuel pump won't effect your idle, that will be your AAC valve or you have an air leak. The fact your economy is so shit makes me think you probably have a bunch of things that needs fixing. 100 premium should get the same economy as 98 premium if you aren't retuning it, should be 100% identical.

I doubt it.

Same price as all his other OP6 high flows I imagine, around the $1500 mark I think. A 260kw highflow using OP6 rear end would be the best performance highflow he does using the stock housings.

Check the hypergear thread, he has ones doing up to 280 with the standard housings.

No you can't run it without a retune.

Something that might benefit your testing stao is an exhaust temperature probe. That way you can get a rough idea of how hard the turbo is working, will also let people know if it is just for occasional street bursts at that power, or if you can run for 20 mins non stop on a track with it. Would also let you improve your own designs.

You have to pass an IM240 test, it is a full spectrum emissions test, to pass it you need generally fairly low boost, and the AFRs have to be perfect, too lean and you fail on nitrogen compounds, too rich and you fail on carbon monoxide, you also have to pass on CO2 which is effected by how much torque the motor is making, eg boost. So you need a tuner that is willing to do his best to get it right, then come along to the test and tweak it as you will most likely fail the first time. You get 3 shots I think, then another $1000 and come back another time. You also then need upgraded brakes for the extra power, they will need to do a lane change test, so you have to pay for a driver and track hire. It adds up fast, hence why so many people just go highflowed stock and keep the car looking stock so it passes with 300kw, it is easy to do, just no aftermarket looking turbos. This is the only time it is worth challenging it, when you know the car will pass first time and it does in fact pass first time. Even then it is a huge waste of your time, but it will prove a point.

Just out of curiousity how do FJ20s spool turbos compared to say SR20s?

depends if you want midrange or top end torque, can't have both bro.

You either prove the modifications already comply with ADRs or you alter them to comply with ADRs, hence showing that they are in fact already legal, or you make them legal.