Rolls

You have so many posts I can't keep track of what problems you have or where you are at, makes replying impossible but I'll give it a shot. Put the stock BOV back on, buy one off the forums, you have to have this or the car won't run right. You have an air leak somewhere, you said your vac is -6mmHg, this is wrong should be -15 ish. You have a leak somewhere in the intake system, find it and fix it, best way is via pressure testing the system, most workshops should have something you can do this with. Get the new coils, it sounds like you have the typical rich/bad spark misfire. 200kms per tank is not just the O2 sensor, with just that dead you should get at least 300, unless of course all you do is rev out 4th on the free way all day. From the consult sounds like the O2 is dead anyway, so replace that, also check the coolant temp sensor and the thermostat, these could also cause your poor fuel economy. Turn the eboost off until you fix your issues, you don't need to add more variables in. Once you have fixed all these things let us know.

Simon runs his to 8500rpm with >300kw and it has lasted a long time, longer than anyone has expected it to. Personally I wouldn't run it past 7200 unless you have a big turbo that continues making torque, then maybe 7500rpm. The issue is more sitting on the limiter breaks stuff than the revs itself, unless of course you are revving it to 8k, then you start slowly stretching parts and eventually they let go.

post on the nistune forums or email them, they would be able to give you a better answer.

Yep the standard sump might not be sufficient for the Gs you are pulling is what I was getting at, hence put it on the dyno and it will very quickly tell you if it is an issue with the sump, or an issue with the build.

I suggested putting it on the dyno lol, not overfilling it.

The whole point of using the Z32 board over the rb20det ecu is it has VCT control.

Did you ever try this? It will very quickly sort out if it is an assembly problem, or a sump design issue.

Just pick the nistune based on the head you are using, or you might have to chop and change sensors and looms. However R33s don't have nistunes, so you would need an rb20det computer or z32 to run it. Pretty straightforward to setup, email nistune themselves and see what board they recommend you.

90% is bad tuning, or something breaking to cause the tune to go out, afm/fuel pump/injectors failing. If any of this goes at any power level it can kill a motor quite quickly.

The 33 feels faster because A) it is lighter so off the line it will be quicker, the VE has more HP though so it will pull away at top speeds and have a better top speed. B) turbo cars have a big peaky torque curve, this gives you the kick and the shove in the seat feeling, it doesn't actually make it faster though, it just feels faster.

Don't rebuild injectors, get aftermarket ones if it is needed, deatchwerks do plug in jobs for a reasonable price with fantastic performance.

I think it was a very high 10 which is why he got kicked out.

Don't most US dynos read quite a bit higher?

lol was it at turbo tune? their dyno gives the most bs figures, 230kw from a stock r33 was the best one I saw.

Where did the 270kw figure come from, fairly lol.

It is poor value for money, put the extra money towards a turbo upgrade, new bushes, new brake pads, new anything really. Even if you are tracking the car it isn't worth it, just get 8100 or one of the other comparable oils. For the money some of you guys spend on oil you could just buy a new engine every 5 years.

Mafia, nice guy, really!

I personally had an issue where the wrong gasket was used in the two halves of the intake manifold, meant cylinder 3 and 4 were leaking badly but the rest sealed fine. Meant a boost drop in the high revs and was extremely hard to diagnose, went 2 years before finding the issue. Could be something like this.

I think either exhaust leak or intake leak. I know you pressure tested the intake, but I'm not convinced. These are the only two things that could really cause a big boost drop.

imo nistune is as good as powerfc and it will pass an inspection, no need to go powerfc, it is great at what it does but it is old tech, could get something better for the money. the r34 ecu with nistune is better than rb20 as it has boost control, temperature ignition trim and some other fancy stuff, more than you will ever need on a street car. I highly recommend you go that way.

knock sensors are not reliable, you really need knock ears to be certain.

If it was different it wouldn't drive at all or would drive so badly he would have noticed by now. Wouldn't just be a mild misfire, tune would be completely out. So knowing that I would say it is A) not different, or B) he has already changed it.

that is weird that it doesn't have a nipple on the compressor housing, are you using one of HGs aftermarket housings? If so how does he set them up? If anything though running the hose from anywhere else should cause boost spiking, not bleeding off.

Yes but your new turbo is now flowing much more at that given boost pressure. You should hook the actuator to the nipple on the compressor, why on earth are you running it from the IC? Re using the same IC as him that is a really good idea, at least you are removing another unknown that way.

Just get a tried and proven FMIC that others have used, otherwise you are introducing an unknown which might make the issue even worse. It isn't just about restriction, it obviously needs to effectively cool the air as well.