Rolls

..and defected to top it off, for get this a TURBO TIMER which I don't even have, he mistook my boost controller, so still have to take it out. Booked in for monday to see what list of stuff they give me as no doubt they will fail me the first time.

would f**k their rep if they ever wanted to do it again in 5 years time.

That is your problem right there, go get a stock ecu. Those mines ECUs are rubbish, make it run way too much timing, way too rich and just suck ass.

Put it at the manifold, at the turbo will be slightly higher due to the restriction of the pipes and intercooler.

Something that does help is VCT, don't think it brings on boost any earlier but gives it more off boost pull. You could do something funky with retarding the ignition timing massively as that will get you boost in idle, but you'd want it switch controlled otherwise it will be horrible to drive and f**k you economy.

What kind of rev limit are you setting on it ?

wut 2.5" plate after the end of the turbo? that is the most retarded idea I have ever heard, why didn't you just get it tuned properly from the get go?

If the hoses are really long it could.

stop being a pussy and just run infinite boost, all the cool kids do it, just remove the line entirely

What makes you think that traction control isn't being disabled? Can you drop the clutch in first and smoke it up? But yeah just pull the fuse, it stops the module getting power.

Actually I just realised I am the complete opposite, I get all the thread notifications, but I almost never get PM notifications.

Seriously this place is somewhere for everyone to help each other out and make some e-pals. When you post in their threads multiple times calling them wankers or harassing them what do you expect mafia?

You can make ridiculous power by staying under 9000rpm. Chances are it would get blown up by detonation from tuning or some sort of oiling problem before a rod let go. In fact has anyone ever seen a 26 fail due to the rods... ever?

Because I haven't seen it in real life I am going to call you a wanker and not believe you.

Run the standard wastegate spring, it sounds like you have an rb20 item in there if its running 14psi. That or there is a leak in your wastegate vacuum hoses

You can get as high as 13psi with no boost controller on an rb20, free flowing exhaust, free flowing intake will easily spike up to 13psi and bleed back to 9psi by redline. In fact all the rb20s with 3" exhausts I've had have run about 13psi with a huge pod, fmic and 3" exhaust. Just putting the bleed valve on with the lowest setting can cause spiking if you are already running 10psi on the tiny stock turbo, make the hosing as short as possible otherwise you will risk not being able to run less than 15psi. I had a turboshit bleed valve that wouldn't run less than 15psi with f**k all hose on it, so be careful. If you want more power just get an rb25 turbo, you won't really make much more running it at 13psi over 10psi.

Yep both torque and revs put load on the rods. However if you rev it to 10k with even stock power there's a reasonable chance of it letting go, as revs increase the force goes up exponentially, the torques effect on load on the rod is linear. I think if you keep the revs low enough you could probably get away with some absolutely incredible torque levels before breaking them, you would almost certainly break everything else first. Interesting read about here and here http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7039 http://www.motoiq.com/forum/aff/10/aft/17/afv/topic.aspx basically, the answer to how strong are they ? it is complicated and depends on lots of things.

Just put a funnel in where the banjo bolt goes in and fill it up with oil just before running it. It will get enough oil to stop any issues, when they assemble them they would use some sort of grease, they wouldn't ever put the bearings together dry.

Isn't it more the rpm that is the issue than torque levels? As said above almost certainly rod bolts would go before rods.

I have never in my entire life heard of someone other than a trucking company get one of those $10,000 fines, and that was only because they regularly hadn't met the service time frames for the cat/muffler/particulate filters. I haven't even heard of a workshop getting fined, not even forum heresay let alone proof.

Lol mafia I have seen one and yes it is some form of nylon/plastic, just because you haven't touched one doesn't mean they don't exist. As mentioned above there are plenty of synthetic materials that can be made with very high strengths. Maybe try talking to people with some respect instead of carrying on screaming all the time and people won't jump at an opportunity to troll you.

Will be interesting to see how long it survives being dropped to 5volts every time you want full power haha.

Actually look at the systems 4WDs use for their dual battery systems with winches etc.

Shipping a head to the UK isn't unfeasible, it won't be that cheap, but it won't be ridiculously expensive either. If you organise the freight I'm sure a seller wouldn't have an issue shipping it, the issue is finding a neo head, they get snapped up in seconds even here and in Japan where they are readily available. I would suggest contacting Jesse Streeter and getting one direct from japan, probably your best bet, get the car towed home until you can find one. Also take pictures of the head for us. How did you crack it, run the engine without coolant or something?

Could you power it from an isolated electrical system, eg a battery that is also hooked up to the alternator but with some huge ass diodes so that the e-charger only draws from the one battery yet the alternator can charge both? The issue is, do such large current rated diodes exist?