Rolls

How have you estimated it will make similar airflow as the G2 does? Have you hooked it up to a flow bench to calculate how much flow it can create? Just not sure how you came to that figure.

How long until it goes on a car?

Should be good for 5-10 second squirts then let it recharge. How will you bypass the turbine blades when it isn't in use as surely it will act as quite a large restriction, or will they free spin quite easily?

Stao if this electric turbo charger works, is it feasible to adapt it to a turbo charger so you can pre spool it? Eg run a belt or gear drive to a custom bearing housing so it can be turned on and off at will? I'm not sure how you would clutch it so it doesn't pose a restriction when on boost and you want to disconnect it though.

Will all depend on how much load it is under, eg if you are blowing it into a 10L motor with no restriction, or a 1.5L with conservative cams, one is going to load it up much more than the other. I am very interested to see how it goes.

Good points jonno, I didn't realise it was factored into that many things, thought it was just the cold start ignition and fuel that was it.

Put it on the dyno and see if it still drops pressure, will narrow down if its the Gs or some other issue.

Assuming there is no way to use the extra sensors to create a map that has timing vs sensor-x then that is actually a really good idea, if there is then using the extra inputs would be the better way. How detrimental would not having cold start enrichment be though? I guess the main issue would be to find an air intake temp sensor that uses the same voltage range as the water temp sender, wouldn't be too hard to create an equivalent table to figure out how to set up the map though. Might speak to pete see if he thinks it is feasible when I get my tune fixed up in a week or so, as with the huge difference between a 10c night in winter and a 40c day in summer I really would like to have intake air temp correction.

can you set up say an ignition trim table vs the air temp though?

Didn't think many of the nissan ECUs had support for intake air temp trim? edit: I read up and saw that you can do it via an external channel, thats interesting. I did a search over there but couldn't find the thread though, any help?

I'd imagine there's no difference you will ever be able to tell.

I'd even argue you will get better economy without the O2 sensor if tuned appropriately as you can tune leaner than stoich.

Coolant temp is better than nothing, but air intake temp is far more important. You could have a fantastic cooling system that works great on a 40c day and coolant temps only rise slightly, air temps however will soar. If it is all you have then certainly utilise it, but if you can somehow set up an intake air temp sensor that would be even better.

If you have an aftermarket ECU that has aux inputs get an intake air temp sensor and set up a timing vs air temp trim table, it will save your motor if you go flog it at 20psi on a 40c day after sitting in traffic.

Just in case someone didn't note the sarcasm, I was joking.

I always hear lots of stories of noisy rebuilt heads, I thought hydraulic ones were meant to be easy to adjust? Hell even my solid lifters in my neo are quieter than my old rebuilt r33 head.

Those dips are normal, if you have even more points on the graph it can look really really bad, valve float tends to have much deeper valleys from the few I've seen, could present itself in more than one way though. If you suspect lifters, would taking say 10 compression tests show up a partially failing lifter?

Apparently its a reco'd head, usually valve float makes weird dips all over the shop, hypergear had a few dyno runs showing it, generally makes it really obvious.

With estimated RPM using these specs: diff ratio 4.343 tyres are 235/45/17 on the rears. Rims 17 X 9 RPM =36.026*(speed in kph) -0.927 http://www.kabamus.c...rage/gears.html Torque figure must be huge for that power that early in the rev range, looks like it is choking up top, either it isn't holding 18psi flat (can you run more boost?), some sort of intake/exhaust restriction, possibly a mild intake leak (unlikely)? I suggested he pressure tests the intake for a leak, checks pressure differential over the IC and gets a heat probe in the exhaust to narrow it down. You guys got any other ideas? Regardless look awesome to drive! tyre shredding torque bye bye license haha

Are you planning to flow test this? What sort of gains have been seen from similar porting?

The odd thing is I had this issue and simply just removed and readded all my subscriptions as instant and it fixed it. It is possible this is multiple different issues though, and what I did only fixed one of them, not the other one people are still experiencing.

Don't see why it would make any difference.

Not really heh. So can we get a list of people who don't get emails, and a couple of the threads you should be getting mail for? Is it possible to set up the email service to send it to a local loopback email as well, eg everything is duplicated and sent to a folder as well, that way you can check if the problem is in the sending, or if the mail never even gets to the outbox.

and if it made that power at 9000rpm vs 5500rpm it would be a huge difference as well.

Mine has been running ~15-20psi for about a year as well without issue. I think you'll find 95% of them are fine.