Rolls

Get someone to rebuild one for you, I can't remember who but someone on here mods them to make the signal more stable apparently, I have no idea what/how they do it though. Anyone know? It might have been elite racing.

Unless they would have not given you insurance in the first place or the mods caused the accident they still have to pay out.

Surely if you had a pod immediately on the end of the AFM initially and then put a 90 degree elbow prior to the AFM then this would change things? Eg the flow would create a big velocity change on the outside of the elbow causing the amount of air actually passing the element to change?

If a rubber vacuum line touched a stock dump running stock boost it would probably catch fire.

If you have a big angle just before the AFM element and then spin the AFM around surely that would change the signal it creates though yes?

4 cylinders sound like ass, I would never buy one purely for that reason, sucks cause I know they are good cars.

Lol I was waiting for someone to do that

Oh so this is with an external gate, is the gate off the manifold? Also how much different do you think it would be using the internal one?

Actually by lowering it that much you f**k the roll centre as all the control arms are on weird angles causing all sorts of issues. Making it stiffer will just compound the problem by having a car that is far too stiff. It will always handle worse at that ride height unless you modify the mounting of the arms and/or use roll centre adjusters. Any stiffer than 4kg springs will almost always give worse handling because when accelerating the car won't squat giving worse straight line acceleration as the wheels will spin, also any bumps you hit will cause a lose in traction as well. The only time you want stiffer than this is when you are running full slicks on a perfectly flat race track. It would never have handled better at 335 unless you had roll center adjusters. Sydney Kid did some testing and found that at low heights there was actually positive camber gain on harsh bumps so lots of things go wrong when you mess with the suspension geometry this much. if you want less body roll use sway bars to remove it, don't use stiffer springs, people always seem to mess this up for some reason.

Do a comp test, otherwise we are just guessing.

Impressive, how is the heat with this one, could you drive it for 10 minutes in the hills flogging it non stop at ~4k on full boost without it starting to detonate or lose power? Also what is with the torque dip when it hits full boost, lots of your dyno graphs seem to have this, is there any reason?

Plug a consult in and see what sensors have 'failed' eg aren't plugged in properly etc. Coolant temp and O2 will certainly make idle rich, using custom piping for the AFM etc could also change the tune. Once you have all the sensors sorted out perhaps getting some dyno time and someone to tune the motor might be a worth while investment? An air leak is another possibility, can you get an adaptor and pressure test the intake? edit: Also knock sensor failure will also do this, can you rev the motor? AFM or Knock sensor failures mean it will backfire and run completely f**ked as soon as you get any load into the motor.

Have you simply tried adjusting the idle screw on the AAC valve? I know the 25s and 20s have one.

Providing the software actually runs and you have no comport/usb issues it shouldn't matter. If the software is old it may not support 64bit that is all I can think of. I'd just put 32bit XP on there if this is all you are going to use it for, will be a little bit faster if you don't have much RAM.

Cranking it vs running it has one key difference, there is no downwards force on the bearings from the pistons firing. There will still need to be oil pressure and oil that can stop the bearings touching, but no where near as much.

If you fixed up the chassis rigidity I think they would be a lot more similar than you might imagine!

Even if you are right calling people names isn't going to resolve the conflict. Interesting points though, I personally have only done the bare minimum of study on fluid dynamics so really am out of my depth here.

Just out of curiosity what do you do GTSBoy?

Most stock boxes with typical 4.1 -> 4.4 diffs would be able to keep the revs between 5 and 7k though yeah? Even the laggiest turbo would be on full song down the strip then.

If you change all the surrounding pipes especially the angles near the afm it could bend the afm signal giving richer/leaner tune.

Trap speeds would certainly back up power figures but once again it'll only really back up the peak figure and not say much about how the car drives. I like dyno sheets as it gives a good indication of if its got good midrange punch, lots of top end etc etc

Can you get it on a dyno and see why it is running lean? It sounds like it is just a coincidence that this has happened after you changed the intake pipe.

Too many variables to be worth while, all it will confirm is the hp via trap times.

Too many variables to be worth while, all it will confirm is the hp via trap times.

It would have handled better at 335 or stock height. I don't know why people think stiff suspension = better handling.