Rolls

Yeah makes more power.

Guess it all comes down to the tune, if tuned to be safe on the track would it still make >300kw with the richer afrs and less timing?

Yep, if you got a kando with an internal flap wastegate and used the stock manifold I think you would see similar heat issues, the 300kw versions (T67 etc) are generally physically quite a bit bigger as well though so the rear housing is likely to flow a lot better and generate less back pressure anyway. Bit of both I think that would make for them a cooler running set up. Would be interesting to see the difference in EGT from HGs 300kw turbos with his internal wastegate and an en external wastegate off the stock manifold. Though as soon as you start using external wastegates etc I think the HG loses its appeal imo.

The heat is not an "issue" as in something is wrong but just the nature of any turbo that makes 300kw with <4k response, if you go a kando the only reason it doesn't have as much heat is because it is laggier.

Check his dyno sheets, he has quite a few that will do it, the issue is the heat they generate from the housing sizes, wouldn't be something you would want to use on the track without running a very conservative tune, be nice on the street though.

I am 99% sure that it isn't the voltage making the car run rough as it is the car running rough making the voltage drop. When the car is running fine put the hand brake on and slowly let the clutch out until the revs drop to say 400-500rpm, have a look at your multimeter when you are doing this and I bet your volts have dropped. Anywhere from 13-14 volts is normal, the car should operate fine all the way down to 11 volts thanks to the fancy regulators in the ECU etc.

So explain what the 'voltage' problem is?

an electronic boost controller should let you hold 20psi+ to redline, this would almost certainly make 260-270kw which is what you are after yes? With small turbos like this they will always spike boost and then bleed down by redline without an electronic controller.

If you have low voltage then it is almost certainly the alternator.

If you want to run 400kw on a stock motor reliably you will almost certainly want to run exhaust temp sensors for tuning and trim each cylinder individually, or just run it massively rich and be conservative of timing. Any detonation at that level will kill it pretty quick smart. How good is your tuner?

Yes and microtech look crap on paper and work pretty average as well. Nistune etc have more features and also work much better.

The point he is getting at is the fuel being cold, as long as you don't leave it idling for 10 hours after filling it it will answer his question.

Assuming you use a turbo that has lots of headroom and tune conservatively 300kw should cost the same as 260kw. If you use a small HG turbo and run 25psi and push everything to the limit on a stock motor there;s a high chance something will go pop from detonation due to thrashing it on the track or in 30c weather.

From what I've read it sounds terrible, high risk of blowing your motor up from detonation if you push any amount of power out of it, if you are conservative it almost isn't worth even using an SAFC. If you don't own a wideband and knock ears ($2000+) then don't even think about attempting to tune this yourself. If you don't own that equipment then spend the $2500 on an ECU that a local tuner is competent with and can tune safely. If they don't own knock ears or a wideband don't ever go back. Tuning a turbocharged engine is not something you skimp on, you can very easily blow a motor up if you don't have experience and the proper equipment to make sure you aren't running lean or detonating.

Can you confirm you have spark and fuel? Eg pull a sparkplug out and see that it is sparking, also unplug an injector and confirm it is getting voltage/current.

I can make 500kw with a megasquirt as well, doesn't mean it is a good ecu. power != features OR a good software/hardware package the fact is a microtech has a massive lack of features and shitty tuning software, it is a huge downgrade on a stock ecu with just simple remaps, using a nistune makes it infintely better than a microtech. A good tuner can make anything work, eg a carby blow through setup, once again it doesn't make it a good setup. If you just stuck with the stock ecu and remapped it you'd have a much better solution, if you went nistune for $400 you'd be infinitely better off.

Even if it is too small you surely should be able to get it to hold flat boost with an appropriate boost controller setup if using an external gate?

Link is definitely a better option than a PowerFC still a lot of money though, email nistune and see if they know of any tuners in your area.

Technically they aren't sprinkles..... now where did my dictionary go.

Really? I imagine they would have less 'smoothing' due to being a direct attachment but doesn't that just point to the tune being rough? Those are some pretty damn big spikes!

That dyno sheet looks like a disaster lol, those torque spikes must be great for detonation!

lol I really shouldn't post at 2am, sure have derailed this thread. : /

you are the only one who thinks it means that

The fact he wrote "ONE UNIT", then wrote "extra special unit" implying a really good single unit, then qualified WHY he wanted an "extra special unit" is 3 reasons why he wanted a single unit, there was nothing to interpret, it was blatant what he wanted lol. I can see how 'extra special unit' on its own might need clarifying especially if you are from another country but in this case it was pretty explicit. The reason why I arked up over this is the distributor decided to post his personal email up, I think that is very unprofessional especially over a misunderstanding that was their own fault.

Try telling that to an English professor, they will tell you that you certainly can be grammatically correct. If he requested ONE unit and had NO comma then it is perfectly clear that he only wants one unit. "extra special" is basically slang for 'good, working, above average, perfect" etc. All the banter was that the distributor thought he wanted two units, the buyer only wanted one unit, and due to his large distance he wanted an "extra special" unit, eg one that won't break as he is so far away! If he wrote "extra, special" eg he included the comma then it would have been unclear and you could think "does he want one or two units?", but that wasn't the case, the grammar was correct and makes sense. Something that makes your posts a tad easier to read is "quoting" posts eg using the quote button or "html" tags like