Rolls

It isn't it just being bad to drive, you could very easily put a hole in a piston and destroy the entire motor if it is running lean and detonating. All of this playing and testing should be done with a dyno and a wideband so you can see what is going on. If you don't have this find a tuner that can do it for you otherwise this could become a very expensive exercise very quickly. Get the air leak sorted and then find someone who can do everything else for you.

True but if the wheel is just smaller then it is going to spin up faster anyway, so you could half the size, make back pressure ridiculous and it would spin up about 10x faster. That's why I don't really get why it is a factor in how much it is going to surge, surge is usually just too much compressor flow for the motor at x rpm.

You really shouldn't be revving out 4th at 20psi without it actually being tuned at that! could very easily be running lean or detonating and hello dead motor! I had the wrong intake gasket on the middle of the two halves of my intake plenum, made the boost drop from 19psi to 15psi, wasn't until it started making a noise that I realised, even then it was a huge pain to figure out what it was. Have you pressure tested the intake yet?

Wouldn't having lower back pressure mean it is less likely to surge as it has a larger rear side?

What do you mean back pressure gauge, as in exhaust side pressure?

bad compression will kill power but it won't stop the turbo boosting. Your power result looks healthy for that boost anyway.

If you are running a 3L definitely go it to avoid surge issues. 2.5L I'm not sure, you might get away with it, anyone got any first hand advice?

Stao from hypergear said aftermarket manifolds reduced response and didn't increase power at all with his turbos around the 300kw mark.

Unless ADR approved defectable, you'll need a stock bonnet 99% sure. Unless they are ADR approved defectable. Make sure you have a CAT and exhaust is legal DB and you will be ok. Sounds like they wont even notice anyway providing the horn is working, as long as the airbag as been removed I really see no issue here. It isn't so much that boost guages are illegal, it is where they are mounted, if you mount anything at all on the A-Pillar, somewhere it obstructs view or where you could hit your head on it in an accident it needs to be removed. The fact it is a boost gauge has nothing to do with it. Intercooler is fine as long as no structural parts have been cut. You measure the exhaust volume with a dB meter, if it is above the legal limit then it is illegal. If the car is below the legal eyebrow height (you'll need to call regency park hotline to find this out) or it is below 100mm at the lowest point then it is too low. If your engine numbers dont match you need to fill out a form saying change of engine, no issue with this though. I'd recommend getting a stock exhaust for the regency visit then putting your old one back on afterwards. If you aren't happy with the volume keep adding inline straight through large bodied oval mufflers until it is the volume you like, shouldn't be more than $200 per muffler fitted.

How do you guys think the internal gate would perform to an internally gated garret?

What is a realistic cost for this setup. Eg the turbocharger, a manifold, a gate, lines (needed ??) a dump and paying someone to custom make stuff? Assuming all you can do is fit it up, you can't fab anything yourself. I'm curious how it stands up to an internally gated bolt on garret or a HG turbo.

Can you confirm there is no boost leak and no exhaust leak? A simple pressure test of the intake system and listening for noises etc should be sufficient, with the exhaust check for signs of the turbo gasket leaking or snapped studs. It is almost certainly not the turbo, I don't see what could fail with the turbo to cause boost to drop off, perhaps a leaking gasket that is about it.

Either a boost leak or exhaust leak would cause a boost drop that dramatic. Can you pressure test the intake system and confirm you have no broken exhaust studs etc? The turbo probably is fine and it is a set up related issue.

300hp sounds completely normal at 14psi, I bet the torque figure is massive if it is spiking to 20psi at 4k though.

Get rid of this piece of shit and it will not spike. They should be called turboSPIKE boost t. I've never seen one work properly, even on the lowest setting with 5cm of hosing they caused spiking on my turbo. Also lose the attitude you sound like a spoilt kid with that post.

If you are bored with the power take the car off the road for 2 months, it will be even faster than than when you first put the turbo on. My car was off the road for 5 months, when I got it going again f**k me dead it was amazing, the handling was the first thing I really noticed but the power was scary after driving a 1.3L barina for all that time.

Damn. My tyres seem to have fixed them selves, make lots of noise and hookup better now. Strange.

http://adelaide.gumtree.com.au/c-Unit-House-Real-Estate-flat-share-house-share-houseshare-125-w-2-STORY-HUGE-FURNISHED-ROOM-DOUBLE-GARAGE-DUCTED-A-C-W0QQAdIdZ314513779 $125/w 2 STORY, HUGE FURNISHED ROOM, DOUBLE GARAGE, DUCTED A/C

What are the 'mounting bolts' you are referring to? Almost certainly 7 is not ok, there is 8 for a reason and running less even if strong enough will no doubt unbalance the system. Where the crank is damaged this will also unbalance the system, how badly? No idea. I would be speaking to a clutch expert eg Jim Berry and ask for his professional opinion on this. Remember 'barely damaged' and 'small' scratches might look fine but when they are spinning at 8000rpm with huge torques and forces going through them they can make a massive difference. Everything also needs to be in balance. Definitely speak to a pro about this, Jim Berry is always all to happy to help over the phone, especially if you can email him the pictures as well. Remember if this happens again you might not be so lucky and might loose your feet, imagine what it would be like to have no feet? Don't skimp on safety!

Yeah this isn't the first time I've heard of nondiagnosable problems with a haltech, most people end up fixing it by using another ECU. Might not be the ECU, might be some weird combination throwing it out, but sometimes its just cheaper and less time to try another ECU.

Oh right, yeah I get what you mean. Probably the case then!

How many bit the CPU is doesn't mean anything, it is just the design.

there was a Hyundai excel drag car that used to run 86psi and rev to something like 10k they would usually last a few races and then crack the bores and they would just replace it with another stock block, pretty funny.

Yep, much newer processor with more features.

Turns out it was something else in combination with the vibration, had the wrong gasket between the two halves of the intake manifold, the two middle cylinders had gasket holes larger than the actual intakes, was leaking quite badly making the middle two cylinders run really rich. Car has more power everywhere and boost jumped from 16psi to 19psi just changing that. I've since fiddled with the boost controller and got it back down to about 16-17psi in case it was reaching new load points that were too lean etc.