Rolls

Turns out it isn't a boost leak, it is the intercooler pipe vibrating and causing a weird resonance that sounds like a trumpet. Getting some new mounts made up and replacing the joiners as they have gotten a bit soft.

Turns out it isn't a boost leak, it is the intercooler pipe vibrating and causing a weird resonance that sounds like a trumpet. Getting some new mounts made up and replacing the joiners as they have gotten a bit soft. Should get the car back on Tuesday. Getting jaustech to do the work as boostworx are simply too busy to get stuff done in a reasonable time frame. Dropped the car off Thursday afternoon, had a call with the problem and the fix Friday arvo, pretty happy with that. Surprised boostworx couldn't find the issue.

checked that it actually is lean with a wideband?

Yeah I realise a lot is different, apparently the neo head is very similar to the 26 head which is why I am wondering what is the main differences that lets the 26 keep making power to 8k. Eg if you get a turbo config on a 26 that comes on at 4k it will keep pulling till 8k, if you have the same turbo config on a 25 it has usually started dying in the ass by 7k.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/377362-neo-cam-specs-vs-r33-rb25-do-neos-hold-power-longer/ done

Just found this really interesting link. http://www.tomei-p.c...haft-specs.html Looks like the neo rb25 has even more lift than the rb26s on the exhaust cam, curious to see if this follows through on dyno sheets with neo rb25dets, do they seem to hold top end power better than r33 rb25s? neo in 8.4 ex 8.7 rb26 in 8.6 ex 8.28 though the 26 ex has more duration and different LCA Reason I ask is rb26s seem to hold power to 8k and beyond, where as 25s always seem to fall over by 7k.

Stop being a party pooper, it'll be like 5 posts, who cares?

Just found this really interesting link. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html Looks like the neo rb25 has even more lift than the rb26s on the exhaust cam, curious to see if this follows through on dyno sheets with neo rb25dets, do they seem to hold top end power better than r33 rb25s? neo in 8.4 ex 8.7 rb26 in 8.6 ex 8.28 though the 26 ex has more duration and different LCA What are the parts of the 'whole setup' that allow it? all that is different is ITBs and cams/valves yes?

In SA I would call regency park as they handle all defect and modified car inspections etc, find out who the equivalent is in your state and call them, they will have a list of all ADRs and be able to tell you what is required to make it legal. I imagine the concept of an external oil cooler/filter is not illegal (why would it be) but it is more the issue of it being improperly installed and causing injury to a pedestrian if it leaks or somehow causing a fire hazard. You could also try calling a registered automotive engineer in your state that can sign off on engine/car modifications, I'm sure they could point you in the right direction, would probably be far more helpful than the gov organisations as well.

Thanks for that. Out of curiosity what lets them keep on flowing to 8k where in a 25 etc it will fall over after 7k, is it the better head etc? Or ITBs and a combination of things.

Well with other cars when the dyno comes on at 4.5k they usually seem very laggy, I'm just going on my own experience, at what rpm do they seem to come on when you are driving them on the street? Also prefacing something with 'without sounding rude' doesn't mean it doesn't come across as rude.

Looking at that graph full boost looks about 4500rpm, I've never been in a car with them though, what is it like on the street to drive?

They come on about 4-4.5k surely there are more responsive setups out there. Something only slightly bigger spec than the stock turbos would be fantastic for a 95% street car, make ~280kw and come on at 3-3.5k instead.

I'll make a thread about my experiences in SA if you want. With engineering you can't just get any old engineer to sign off on it, they have to be a mechanical engineer, they have to have chartered status and then they have to be certified by the RTA to sign off on things, even then they often only get certified for certain things, eg chassis mods, engine mods, etc.

I can't imagine a cop cleaning all the grease off you engine block, jacking it up and getting under there with a magnifying glass.

If they suspected rebirthing and had someone specifically look and see if it had been then they would probably figure it out, but you'd have to do something pretty sus for them to suspect this.

Seriously though I really don't know how you would get caught restamping an engine. My mate has to do it all the time at work when they get new ones from the factory and if you do it properly looks identical to the factory. You grind it smooth and restamp, unless you do the dodgiest grinding job and don't smooth it off you could never tell, even then it is going to be covered in grease etc and not noticeable.

This really is the ultimate way to go, with 8 gears you could quite effectively utilise a power band that is even only 1k wide.

How do you get caught with engine numbers being ground off? If you grind them off and restamp them then there is nothing to get caught with, grind it smooth and there is no evidence. It was registered in VIC with the rb20 motor, hence I had to do it properly which I was prepared to do when I bought it. The advantage of doing it properly in SA is you get a piece of paper saying 'exemption, modified vehicle' which doesn't state what has been exempted, most cops read this and assume you've had everything inspected and checked off so I get away with fat rims, exhaust, blah blah blah some how every time I get pulled over, not sure how long my luck will last though.

Yeah I've heard of people getting a change of engine form and putting the new number but saying it is the same capacity, issue is if you go interstate and need a numbers check most the guys will look at the old rb20xiegfh49 and then the new rb25dlfj and go 'hold on, the capacity has changed'.

You don't need an engineer, at least not in SA. All I had to do was apply to 'modify a vehicle' and state what I was changing eg conversion to a 25det, I also stated I was putting in a plumbed in catch can, intercooler, 3" exhaust with high flow cat, they replied with for it to be legal I needed an idle emissions test that met the emissions of the r33 gtst, no modifications to the engine, std R33 brakes or larger, below legal exhaust db limit, standard computer (didn't specify R32 or R33) I personally used R32 and nistuned it. I then had to have a full defect inspection at regency park to verify this, they also check everything else is up to standard. As soon as you change computer, injectors, turbo etc you need a full spectrum emissions test, also if you change the engine output power above a certain percentage you need a whole bunch of other things done, this almost always requires an engineers certificate. The way I see it no one is going to put an rb25det in and keep it stock, they are going to up the boost etc etc. As soon as you do this you are essentially lying and the car is not legal, however it will pass an inspection due to you having passed the cert, it is however not legal just because they didn't pick up on it. So if you do this you might as well just grind the engine number off and stamp your old rb20 one on, or if building a 30det just put the 25 engine number on. Illegal is illegal so what is the difference in doing this? You are dodgying the process either way so if you are willing to be dodgy and not follow the law 100% why not just make it easier for yourself. Same goes with putting a 2.2L rb20 in, just because they can't see the insides of the motor and pass the inspection doesn't mean you have done it legally. Grinding off an engine number and stamping a new one on is easy as pie. Do you guys see what I am saying? If you aren't going to follow the law 100% with getting the car certified then why bother doing any of it, just stamp a new engine number on. No more illegal than applying to convert the engine and then putting all your highflow turbo, injectors etc of the day after you passed the inspection.

Of course, with an AC motor the speed is going to be proportional to the hz, the hz of course is exactly the same rpm the engine is doing hence it would be like having a single gear which is as you said just an expensive coupling. So you would either need a VSD or convert it to DC and control it this way.

Couldn't you just use the engines throttle to modulate speed. If you have more throttle you get more revs and power, hence the motor delivers more power. Less throttle means it delivers less throttle. You are right, this wouldn't be a true CVT then, but it would have of the benefits of a CVT, being able to hold a motor at peak power without a gearbox changing gears and dropping you out of the powerband. It would be better with a control system, but a control system requires a huge ass VSD, inverters, AC -> DC etc which is another stage of inefficiency's.

This is another idea I had, using essentially a massive fluid torque converter as the gearbox and change the gear ratio based on how the fluid dynamics work. I get the impression these systems are very lossy and a lot of energy is lost as heat though. WIth the motor and generator combination, could you not just use an AC -> AC motor? There are no inverters, regulators, nothing needed, you could literally just wire them directly together removing a point of inefficiency.

Which is why shit goes wrong, no one is accountable or cares what happens in the other steps. If you had a company doing 95% of the work I bet there would be better results.