Rolls

There is so much stuff to do, more expensive not even considering that the hours of free labour you have to put into it.

You can sell a GTS-T for more than a GTS +T, and a GTS +T will cost you more to build than buying a GTS-T, ergo worth more and less expensive.

They won't do it for free, they will expect 150 sales you realise, good luck tracking everyone down. Need more like 300 requests once you find out 50% of them won't fork out the cash or don't want it anymore. Plus everyone is expecting they will just scan a copy in and get it for free anyway, not going to happen. Someone should just ask how much profit they need to make, then we could crowd fund the manual, that would be far more effective.

Ok here is a step by step guide I wrote up a while ago: 1. Put your car on carsales.com.au 2. Sell your car 3. Buy a GTS-T 4. Go on a $4k holiday overseas with the money you saved 5. Proceed to drive your GTS-T which is worth more, less expensive and better than a GTS +T

sold

Sold

Yep you are right, it uses the AAC to get most of the control eg adjust from 400rpm to 800 rpm, then uses timing advance/retard for fine control.

Closed loop idle control means a feedback loop eg ignition_adjustment = (ideal idle speed - actual idle speed) * tuning factor Eg it is constantly adjusting the idle speed based on it's current speed by adding or subtracting both fuel and ignition. Same with closed loop O2 feedback, it constantly adjusts the fuel at cruise to obtain stoich 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio, eg the injector pulse adjustment = (14.7 - current o2 reading) * tuning factor The equation is more complicated than that as you actually have a PID controller with 3 tuning factors, but for discussion sake it is essentially that simple. You can quickly see if you have a error, eg the idle is greater/less than the idle speed you want, it will then add/subtract ignition timing to slow/speed up the idle. Open loop is where there is no feedback, it just depends on the map of ignition/fuel values, eg great for the conditions you tuned in, but as soon as you switch the A/C on or get the motor really cold/hot it doesn't work.

Yeah I mean leave it off and manually tune stoich at cruise? Doesn't it make it impossible to get it right all year around, eg humidity, altitude changes temperature etc?

Do many people tune nistunes with the O2 feedback off?

Sounds like the typical rich/bad spark misfire that so many people get. Go read up on the previous threads eg the 5500rpm misfire thread, it is usually a combination of too rich/bad coils/bad plugs causing a misfire. It is extremely common and almost certainly your problem.

They want ones that meet ADRs, all compliance shops and jap import places will be able to do it as it is the first thing that has to be done when a car is complianced.

So when the car makes boost it gets faster? That sounds pretty normal dude lol Or do you mean when its already on boost it feels like the torque drops off at redline? if so that is normal, you get a big whack of midrange torque with the stock turbo around 4-6k then the torque drops off by redline as the tiny turbo can't provide any extra air. If you want that feeling to redline you need a bigger turbo.

Move the BOV about 10cm upwards so the hose only needs to be 1/10th that length, also use a hose that is the right shape (curved) so that it isn't full of nasty curves. The reality is no matter how backward your setup is it will still work fine, hell no bov works fine, but if you are going to spend money doing it, don't make it look agricultural spec like that, looks embarrassing to look at!

A replacement stock turbo is only $400 ish anyway, I would just leave it and enjoy it as it is, I would trust the workshops gauge if they tune cars all day on it, I've never had a stock gauge that was remotely accurate (though this is in the older R32s and 33s, 34 might be better)

The biggest worry with WMI is if it fails and you have no fail safes kaboom goes the engine, you need a float in the meth tank that will kick the ECU into a secondary "no WMI" map should it fail, coupling this with knock sensors would be the only fool proof system as there really is no easy way to know if the pump/injector has failed. I've never played with the newer vipec/adaptronic ECUs but do they allow you to set up secondary maps with a bunch of conditions that will trigger it eg an auxillary digital output (float in the tank) or an analog signal greater than a threshold (external knock detecting circuit) ? I would imagine the higher end ECUs have something like this however once you do this properly the solution really is getting quite expensive and makes me wonder if simplicity is not a better option. I would not be comfortable utilising the benefits of WMI without something like this, it really isn't that hard to imagine you empty out your meth tank due to a leak and not realise before it is too late. I mean with the extra torque you get from extra ignition timing, is the money spent on engineering this solution not just better spent on a bigger capacity engine? I am a big fan of simplicity, too many things that can go wrong in the engine bay already.

Awesome rep from back in the day when they were a great ECU, it is like getting a magazine from the 90s where windows 95 and a pentium 200 was amazing, doesn't mean it still stands up that well today, sure if all you want to do is run excel from the nineties it probably does it well (eg running a rotary that used to be carby fed), but once again doesn't mean it is great today. There "fast and reliable processing time" is slower and no less reliable than any new ECU.

Get them installed? Not that expensive to pay a jap import place to weld them in.

Ok what I meant was if I flatten it at 60 I make boost, it is a small turbo, makes full boost by 3500 of ~18psi

That is sort of what brake knock off is, the gap between pressing the brake pedal and when the brake pad actually touches, it is not adjustable though, both pads are connected to the same fluid line and everything is mounted solidly so I don't see how one could hit before the other, however if it did I doubt that is the issue, would probably add more modulation if anything tbh. The mushy feel at the start is the knock off, eg no braking for a bit of the travel. Cheers for the thought though!

How does every other supercharger in the world work then, they don't seem to have any fancy things to make them idle ok, do they all just have a low speed air bypass valve or something? Even if you just wired a recirculation line with a very small bore eg 1/2 inch from the intake to the discharge this would recirculate air at idle and at high boost would only recirculate a little bit.

Depends on the cause, if you have knock then you'll still break them they just might take 6 months instead of 3 months to snap. If you are breaking them due to genuine high cylinder pressures eg 3-400kw then they will help, though broken ring lands in these motors are almost always due to knock, you might have an issue that doesn't show up during dyno time that is causing the problem. Piston slap with forgies is only due to big clearances, it is a tight call between slap and the piston siezing, just make sure the expansion coefficients of the pistons aren't too excessive and then you can run tighter tolerances, maybe give RIPS or race-pace a call and see what they recommend piston wise (and clearance) for minimal slap.

I make boost cruising at 60 in 4th, you can hear it spool and feel the torque increase, by 2500 its making like 10psi

Yep holford sell for $139 however it is a Z32 copy so different biasing.

Thanks for the reply, so how much harder will the pedal feel and how much less travel are we talking? Currently my pedal is very soft until about 75% when it feels very hard and brakes much harder from there on, is it likely the bigger bore would just shift this up higher? I guess the only way I will know is if I buy a bigger bore, if you were to guess would you go BM50 or BM57 ?