Rolls

Lets say peak power was at 5k and you wanted to generate this peak power so had full throttle, what would stop the motor revving to say 6k? That is what I am trying to understand.

Hehe I get bored easily and always think about shit like this, I remember when I was ~15 and thought of the radial engine, turns out someone invented it in WW2 put it in planes and it failed dismally. Yep, the goal is that you can run the motor at peak power at all times and as the speed changes the 'ratio' changes. I am not sure how you would control the load on the motor to limit rpm, but with the electric motor half you don't need a ratio, it just creates peak torque at all times. This is how it would act like a CVT, always at peak power rpm, electric motor delivers what ever 'power' it is generating at all speeds. f**kING MAGNETS HOW DO THEY WORK?

Lol don't even bother, mafia trolls 99% of threads here.

FJ20 cars like DR30s, all turbo HR31 skylines, VL turbos, C32 Laurels, Datsun Z31 300zx and possibly early cefiros (have a redtop with a silvertop cam cover lol).

I'm talking about using it to create a CVT and comparing it to a traditional transmission weight and efficiency wise, the reason diesel-electric trains use them is entirely different.

Because my concept uses a turbocharged engine

If it is heavily restricted it might (exhaust temps/backpressure meaning you have to retard ignition massively), 3L is a lot bigger than a 2.5L

Converting an r32 to an rb25 is nothing compared to the cost of building a 22/25/30/34 motor with forged parts. All you need is R33 brakes and a 'stock' ecu. If it is an r33 then no one is the wiser, just stamp the block with your old number if you are worried. It isn't like it is going to be 'legal' when you are running 20+ psi emissions wise anyway. There are a few more issues with 25/30/34 but imo the issues are nothing compared to how much better all that extra torque is going to be.

I was assuming the assembler, builder, machiner were all the same person in that post.

So the concept of CVTs is pretty cool, constantly varying gearbox giving the perfect ratio at all times, also means the engine can be designed to operate in a very small rpm range for optimum performance/efficiency. The current CVTs fall over due to low torque limits and losing energy via heat due to the bands slipping. The concept is to make this CVT out of an electrically linked generator and motor. Eg the engine drives a generator and the generator powers a motor to drive the wheels except there is no intermediate batteries or such, the coils for the generator are linked directly to the coils for the motor. Ignoring the issues of how one would control such device (eg final ratio to control engine rpm) generally how efficient are generators and motors, what kind of losses could we expect to see? how do they compare to those of a traditional gearbox? Also how heavy would the coils be to successfully transmit say 200kw of power? Here is a picture if you can't visualise what I am talking about. No doubt weight, efficiency etc would make it pointless, but is the concept sound? Discuss.

You would still need to tune such map to suit though.

That is what I am curious about, how is the device activated/disabled, how seamless can this change be and how fast can it happen?

Does it just click/do nothing? Or does it turn over but never start?

and there is the answer, very interesting, thanks for that.

I know it is but I don't have a nistune license, really interested in getting one in the future though.

What you are talking about is a purely electrical super charger, I totally agree that this simply requires far too much electrical power and being as you would increase the load on the alternator you might as well mechanically drive it. I can see merit in stao's case though as he is aiming to simply just prespool the turbo making it come onto boost faster as it is already spinning at 25(?)% of the rpm needed for full boost. I am very interested in how much of an increase in boost response this could create. Something I am curious about though is when the turbo is on full boost are you going to turn off the electrical pre spool device? As if the turbo is spinning faster than the electrical motor would spin it to, eg it is doing 100,000rpm and the motor can only spin it to 50,000rpm it would actually be working as an alternator instead of an electric motor, this would cause it to suck power, eg it would create a drag on the turbo slowing it down so you need some sort of control circuit that will turn it off when boost is >x psi. How are you planning on doing this stao? edit: Have I got this wrong and it is an electric supercharger? Or is it a turbo with an electrified bearing cartridge with a gear that can allow it to be mechanically (electrically) driven?

Totally agreed, mainly why I mentioned the 400rpm cells as these would never really be accessed apart from when starting or the engine is stalling. If anyone does have stock redtop rb20 maps, would you be able to look at these areas to see if there is anything stand out that might have been done for this reason?

Just out of curiousity where/what would you change in the tune to stop AFM cars stalling when running with a atmo bov/no bov causing flutter. I know you can tune it out as VL turbos and R31 redtop rb20dets never came with bovs and fluttered from the factory without stalling. I imagine the cause of the stalling is where it runs very rich just after throttle off, would simply pulling all fuel from ~400rpm fix the issue? So when it stumbles it doesn't add even more fuel causing it to stall? Have any tuners looked at the stock redtop tunes to see what is different? I personally run the stoc recirc valve but I'm curious what the difference is. One thing I have noticed is the redtop rb20s have a strange cylinder sticking out the intake that leads to nothing. This is post AFM and looks a bit like a buffer, could this be what they used to stop the stalling issues? Eg it buffers the fluctuations in pressure in the intake causing less AFM voltage fluctuation?

When you are getting up above 240kw though I personally want something grippier.

Yeah I was just talking generally BB, I think what you said is the case here, a combination of things.

Very limited range, basically nothing that anyone wants.

if you shop around you can get 8100 xcess for $60, there used to be a shop in marion shopping centre here in adelaide that sold it for $59, it regularly goes on special for this price at repco I think as well.

I didn't find them worse than any other tyre personally, but everything else did what you described in the wet when less than 75% as well.

For under 300kw I would go the HG every time, fitment wise it bolts on with very little drama, internal gate so looks stock, great response and power, they are also cheap. Kandos are cheaper but you need manifold, dump and gate, so by the time you are finish they will cost more most of the time, however if you already have this stuff it is a no brainer. Reliability wise from what I've seen and read both the turbos are as reliable as anything else, probably don't have the same quality control as a garret, but you don't see random failures like cheap generic china stuff that has very porous casting and other average stuff.

By 'not too flash in the rain' they certainly arent as good as when hot, but they are still better than most street tyres! Comparitively when cold they are still good performers, it is they are just much better when hot. I've got federal 595 rs-r on the front of my street car, not amazing when cold but all you need is one corner and they stick great, a few corners in the hills and they are amazing. if you want something more progressive when cold get federal 595 evo, absolutely f**k all from opion1 garage, in fact ku36s are cheaper from option one than a lot of rubbish tyres youll get from local distributors.