Rolls

I didn't think you could use it with a neo?

I have a forged r33 25 bottom end for $1k for sale, but no one wants it. Even comes with 7000kms run in and $5k of receipts.

lol, just block the bov off with a coke can gasket, that way when you get sick of it a month later you can stop the dosing.

Be $$ no doubt though.

Don't worry about it, as long as it drops when it warms up. The stock gauge is pretty useless, if you are worried buy a proper gauge.

Is it after revving it out on load/boost then clutching in straight away? or does it just randomly stall for no reason? Does it also hunt? If it is the last two it is most likely the AAC valve, take it off, soak in petrol cleaning it out then pressure clean it as well. First one is most likely tune related with it running rich on deaccel, can often fix this up by tweaking the map.

Keep adding straight through large oval bodied mufflers until it is the volume you desire.

If you want to run a better fuel run it on alcohol, is E85 or some other ethanol blend available where you are? Would be much cheaper than 116 and also legal to use on the street.

Any reason to use an electronic throttle? Retro fitting a cable be annoying? Or are there advantages to actually using it?

why cant you?

It is 100% the hotside, there is no doubt about it, eg what everyone in this thread has said. Also 900c is very hot imo, should be more like 750c max. Change the rear of the turbo and it will fix all your issues, it is completely mismatched!

Pretty sure nissan never released a BB turbo anyway.

Yeah you will be fine without it, however if you do have the hole for it, I would use it anyway, any reduction in vibration is a good thing, also if one of the bolts does shear for whatever reason (incredibly unlikely) it will take shear forces much better than the remaining bolts will.

Go a GT3076 with an external gate and 0.63 or 0.82 rear housing and external gate depending on what power/response level you are aiming for.

I can't vendor v erdict so I won't say it publically, but glad to see you came to that conclusion.

Best way would be on the freeway load it up in 3rd or 4th and see when it reaches full boost then, dyno is best though. Oh so its an oldschool remap? or PFC if you have the knock counter? Don't change the boost until you can get it on a dyno with a decent tuner, I had a remap done by Jeff ages ago but I've heard he is in Melb now and not tuning so much. Perhaps try one of the big workshops here, boostworx, willall, Jaustech, even get hold of the Nistune guys they are great.

Why must it be twins?

PSI means nothing, it is all about airflow. Eg 5psi on a T51r is going to be pushing more airflow than a stock turbo at 12psi and hence make more torque, bigger combustion pressures etc. I'm assuming you have an rb25 if so I'd say keep the power under 300kw, tune it very conservatively (rich and easy on timing) and if maintained properly should last you ages. Things that will kill a motor are poor tune (detonation killing pistons and bearings), oil issues eg not enough oil and drifting = oil starvation, high revs for a long time filling the head with oil, limiter bashing causing oil pump failure. Outright torque is almost never the reason why a stock RB has failed. So to answer the question, keep pushing more boost in until you make the power you want or it stops making power (limit of the turbo) or you run into detonation problems from the intake charge being too hot. If it is making 270kw on 15psi, then I'd say it could probably go to 20-22psi fairly easily, probably be making more than 300kw then though. Got a dyno sheet? Or know when the turbo comes on full boost? Might make it easier to figure out how much power it could make and on what boost, ultimately we will be guessing though ask ATP what they think the turbo is good for. 18-20psi should be a good limit to aim for though, just make sure you insist the tune is safe, who are you getting to tune it?

ATS are a brilliant company, the reason they cost more is he uses a full garret BB core in his turbos. It basically is very similar to a brand new garret turbo what he makes.

That is when it goes from the idle map to you are using the throttle map I think. There should be limits that can be set or calibration etc for it.

Any local turbo guy should be able to do this job, still that is pretty funny.

Yes you can set the limits in the ECU, eg flatten the accelerator and see what volts it gives, this is your max volts, then close the throttle and see what the volts are, this is your min voltage eg your limits. Should be very easy to do this.

The dowel isn't that important, rb30 flywheels don't even have it, nor do some aftermarket ones. It just gives another way of locating which will avoid any excess slop that the bolts have (bigger tolerances), might help ever so slightly with vibrations. But yes remove it with vice grips and get a new one, if you leave it off it isn't the end of the world. I've had two cars that didn't have one in it, one had an rb30 flywheel, the other one just didn't have the dowel.

Can vary massively, why do you think that? Costs the same for a highflow that makes 220kw or 320kw usually.

Especially when it is winter and the temps are cool.