Rolls

Good to hear, highly recommend intercooling it as well.

Make sure you factor into this a proper dyno tune with an ECU or the picture above is a real reality, especially if the fuel pump isn't up to the task.

Then get an rb20 ecu, its guaranteed to work.

um how is that not easier you don't change ANYTHING on the ecu side, you don't even change a 'couple of wires' they ALL stay the same lol. The msd switch or eboost is seperate, you just run 2 wires to the relay, 2 to power and 1 to RPM input off the ECU. It doesn't get any easier than that haha

Sell it and buy one already turbo, work out MUCH cheaper and will almost certainly be a better car. Don't keep it because of sentimental value or you want to do all the mods yourself or some bs, trust me it is a waste of cash and you will regret it.

or he could get a nistune rb20 ecu which is better than either of those

sounds sick aye mafia? f**k he should go even crazier and DE-stroke his rb20, 1.6 litres here we come, it'll do 11k rpm Initial D style represent. MAD

Just use the rb20 ECU and an MSD switch/eboost street ffs guys Its like $150 MAX for the switch and the rb20 ecu are dime a dozen. It is a non issue, just sell your Z32 one and use RB20, no rewiring for knock sensors etc needed it just works.

all that business is dorrahs, VL turbo setup is cheaper and all bolts up, no weirdo manifolds etc needed. SOHC is fine for 250kw, nothing wrong with it at all, just won't rev as much as a DOHC but really who cares for a streeter, better than a 20 imo and almost as good as a 25, more down low but doesn't have the top end.

Hey I've got a great idea, you should stroke an L24 up to a 2.8L using a diesel crank, it'll be sick because no one else has ever done it in a skyline, it will also sound mad.

lol you still stuck on your silly idea of your built 20?

f**k running without VCT it makes a big difference. Just use an MSD switch or an eboost street to control it.

If you can pull it all out yourself then I would save the $1k for forgies, almost all dead motors are oil problems. Go baffled sump, oil pump, bearings, crank collar (or is this fixed with neo motors?) If you kill it via pistons then it is almost certainly det related which means tuning and you said this is sweet.

Pics of the crank and everything else? Looks shredded. What's the plan now, baffled sump and stock rebuild? Or you just gonna get another short block?

Just completely forgot about it, I'm not 100% it has snapped it just seemed to free spin a bit when i had finished tightening it so I just left it in case it had snapped, that was like 2 months ago though so completely slipped my mind.

english please

Getting him to have a look and replace the stud/gasket first as the inlet manifold is a flamin mongrel to do and $$ I could do it but itd be a day Id take off work without pay, might as well just get him to do it. Oh wells such is cars $$$$$

Yeah you are rightit is an option, he said cheap though and I got the impression that he wasn't going to do the work himself. At least he does know the 30det is an option now as well. VL turbo gear is probably the only option available if he can't do an engine swap himself though.

Because they are always things people forget and almost always have to be done. A stocko 25 turbo will choke a 3L as well. I did an engine swap myself (rb25 neo) and it has cost ~$3500 so far and I already had clutch, tyres, fuel pump, injectors, turbo, intercooler, piping etc. And I did all the work myself, old engine out, new engine in. The motor was $1900 bare and the rest was for tuning and buying new gaskets, bolts, random parts, getting broken studs removed etc etc.

Run 18-20psi, it will be fine on a standard engine if tuned safely. Should see 240kw with that boost whatever you do don't just turn it up though, it needs to be done on a dyno and tuned safely. Your current mods look good and the power for 15psi sounds pretty much spot on. Electronic boost controller will help you get a flat boost line, if you start maxing the turbo out with a boost tee it will usually drop off in the upper range, this is the only real difference.

You forgot all the turbo gear, clutch, tyres, fuel pump etc etc It is ALWAYS expensive.

Use rb20 computer and loom with a nistune and it is even easier.

sure will cost a lot of money

turbo the 30 with VL turbo gear, will give the best result imo, that or an rb25 swap, but that won't be cheap if you can't do all the work yourself. Doing either of these properly will cost ~$5k once you replace the clutch, get proper tyres, fix all the broken shit etc. If its auto you'll probably kill the box fairly soon and then want a manual box blah blah it always adds up and costs lots in the end. Cheapest option is sell it and buy one that is already turbo'd.

Pics? : (