Rolls

No probs, sounds like we want the same thing anyway. I wonder if you can space your pads out to decrease the brake knock off, anyone know?

Someone suggested that whilst a bigger bore will reduce pressure, it will have more fluid so has more actual travel meaning the pads will contact the disc sooner, so pedal will get harder sooner, but at the same pedal travel will actually stop better? Eg it won't travel as far so max pressure with bigger bore is less eg car won't stop as well, but at comparable travels it will stop better with the bigger bore. Thoughts? edit: Read a few more articles, summary is: Bigger bore = harder pedal, less pressure so at max braking won't stop as well, shorter pedal travel, due to the shorter pedal travel will stop better at half travel so around town will stop better for the same pedal travel. Might be worth a shot, as the bore isn't that much bigger the max braking won't be reduced that much, I guess it could go either way, only one way to find out?

You are right, P = F/A, so by increasing the area you decrease the pressure, so you need more force for the same pressure. Well now I have no idea what to do.

Hmmm

So after going BM50 to BM57 your pedal feel has not changed at all? I don't really understand how it could feel the same, the extra bore diameter means that for the same foot pressure you must get greater brake piston pressure and hence more braking, or are you saying it improved but barely? Perhaps the ABS is the reason why, I do not have ABS. The issue is just that the pedal doesn't feel like it does much at the top, only the last 25% seems to do the braking, they felt great with the stock R32 GTST callipers so the calliper change seems to have caused this issue. What would people suggest myself and my mate look at?

Both myself and my mate did the upgrade and aren't satisfied with the brake pedal feel so there must be something different eg slightly more friction, perhaps we both just ended up with older cruddier pistons than our original R32 GTST callipers. Would a BM57 upgrade boost the brakes too much and go too far, would a BM50 be more suitable? http://forum.silviansw.com/viewtopic.php?t=35033 This website has user saying that BM57 will probably be too big. What about the bias, is the BM50/57 bias the same as the BM44? This website sells them for $140 https://holfordmotors.com/store/Categories/Brakes/HFM-46010-30p02

http://www.jdmlegion.com/KnowledgeBase/Brakes/Nissan-Skyline-brake-disc-and-caliper-information-33633030-5ca2-4f69-b247-5cb9366bcaf1 Looks like the early R32s had a single pot calliper, do you know what the size of this was compared to the 4 pot ones? Curious if it is any different. Are the 4 pot callipers from R32 and R33 the same? Or are they different but with the same piston size?

So the R33 callipers which look bigger than the R32 gtst ones have the same size pistons? I could have sworn they were larger hence the change in pedal feel, my mate said exactly the same thing. I recently changed my pads and it feels a bit better, I mean the car stops fine, I just don't want to have to push as hard on the pedal that is all. edit: Appears you are right, same piston size. http://www.gtrcanada.com/wordpress/2011/11/r32-nissan-skyline-gts-t-brake-caliper-rotor-specs/ http://www.gtrcanada.com/wordpress/2011/11/r33-nissan-skyline-gts-t-brake-caliper-rotor-specs/ Whilst I may be bypassing a problem by upgrading master cylinder size, would this make my pedal feel better ?

I have an R32 GTST with R33 297mm brakes, since the upgrade the brakes feel worse around town, when flogging it they are better as less fade due to heat and if you really stomp the pedal they pull up good, the issue is around town you need more pressure than you should to pull up due to the stock BM44 cylinder. Is BM50 or BM57 a better upgrade? I realise the BM57 is the largest bore but will this make the brakes TOO boosted and be like a brand new car which is impossible to heel and toe due to the over boosted brakes? Anyone driven with all 3 boosters able to comment? Cheers

change the turbo and manifold, boost controller and bov back to stock, the rest is fine if you haven't cut the reo bar, call up regency and they will confirm. aftermarket turbos will never pass unless you do a full emissions test and get an engineers report Also hiding the ECU isnt good enough, they will ask you to remove the kick panel and show that you have a stock ECU installed, some guys will even unplug it to make sure it isn't fake so either put it in a standard case or go standard ECU + nistune. You probably also have a Z32 afm and maybe injectors? they all need to go back to stock as well. There is a reason highflows + nistune are so popular, they are basically the only way you can go through regency with 260kw and pass.

Well it has lower amounts of all the nasty emissions so if they give you shit you should school them on it.

Nah costs too much + all the assing around to make it fit, rather just put 2nd hand boxes in every few years.

There is lots of electronics in the engine bay, all you need is the actuator anyway, then you can put the actual controller in the cabin like a boost controller.

Sometimes that is the best option, they have the tools to figure out what the issue is, end up spending more if you just replace everything trying to figure out what is wrong.

Pull injector plugs one by one until one doesn't make it any worse than it is already. Once you find the cylinder that is missing check the plugs/coils/loom for that cylinder. Could even use a screwdriver to the ear to find which one is missing.

white G35 flogging it up the start of eagle on the hill sounded nice!

If you want to get into drift, save up $5k and buy an unregisterable drift car and a trailer. I'm serious, waste of money otherwise. If you want your car to be nice on the street then just go tune + injectors + clutch + new tyres + pump + FMIC + afm and leave it at that, remember to keep all your stock gear for when you get defected and have to put it back to stock, lots of people forget that. Expensive hobby cars are!

Do this, looks like a timing hole because he went really safe or something was making it ping at peak torque. If it is a timing due to detonation then try dropping the exhaust and see if it still pings if you add the timing back in. Basically I would just find another tuner, not saying he is bad, but a second opinion is important, I've gotten one lots of times after seeing good tuners.

E85 is about the only thing to make it last longer. Imo 250 is prefect for the street, why not just leave it and enjoy it? Since my car started making 260kw I've actually gone "you know what? this is more than enough power for the street" The turbo comes on like the stock one but makes 260kw with no lag, what more could you want?

If they used a huge pushrod to separate the electronics to the valve I don't see why it would fail due to heat etc, anyone got some diagrams and further reading about them?

So 2nd does go pop in them ? This is the first one I've heard of it happening with.

Revved out second then it sounded like a helicopter at any revs, didn't sieze or explode, but 2nd was missing a whole tooth when we took it out. Box lasted 4 years of me driving it with that power, no idea how long the previous owner had it with a 25 behind it so did pretty well imo! at $300 I'll just keep throwing more boxes at it, just a daily I drive to work, doesn't see any track time other than going up eagle on the hill here in adelaide every few weeks..

So I snapped 2nd in my rb20 box with 260rwkw, I thought 3rd always went? I guess because i drive it on the street I only ever rev out 2nd, 3rd is just instant loss of license and jail time if you rev that out so maybe thats why it lasted so long and I only broke 2nd. Thoughts?

Wow, I claimed late last year and they didn't do that. Guess times are changing?

Do you mean BM57??? BM44 is R32 BM55 is GTR BM57 is apparently 1" ?