Rolls

It will be laggy and the turbos will only run 12psi. Why not go a gt3076 or bigger? simple and proven and possibly cheaper.

Eh would you actually trust them to rebuild a motor for you? Unless they regularly build motors it will just be another headache, much better off to get a replacement second hand motor imo, also make them pay for it. It isn't your fault they had faulty equipment.

If the engine was detonating they should have had knock ears on it and shut the motor off immediately, if they didn't and hence killed it they are responsible for that.

Yeah it is their responsibility to tune it properly.

It either works or it doesn't there isn't much to them. If it is working then buying another working one will produce basically identical results.

New plugs are a start, even cleaning the old ones if they are fouled would fix them if that was the issue. However something is making it run rich as hell, I would be looking to try another ECU to diagnose if that is the issue.

When you said it ran really badly describe it.

Unplug the Cas and pull coilpack number one out, put the coil near to earth eg 1cm away from the head. Turn the ignition on and spin the CAS by hand, you should see cylinder 1 fire eventually. Be careful though as you can get big pops through the intake etc if the cylinders are full of fuel. Either way this will rule out spark and CAS in one hit. I had identical symptoms to you, turned out I had snapped my exhaust cam shaft into 3 pieces, pretty bloody unlikely though. Takes about 30 minutes to pull the rocker cover off and have a look though. Other option is get a stock ECU and crank with that, should at least splutter and try and start if it is the ECU causing the issue. edit: I see you already tried the cas diag.

If the workshop found the engine and did everything for you then it is they should fix it, you paid them to do a job and they didn't do it.

Go buy some properly speced new electrical connectors otherwise you will end up with shitty brittle ones and sometimes they break when you repin them.

It is seeing a sound signal which it would then have the things I spoke of either in software or hardware to figure out if it is hearing real knock. So yes it is all internal, there would be nothing you could easily tap into.

Sarge it isnt a voltage it is an analog signal and you have to filter the knock frequency from the mech noise with a band pass filter, not exactly trivial unless you know electronics theory and opamps + building filters, you would then need to determine a threshold via inducing real knock, better to buy an existing setup, there is a reason why good knock ears Cost 2k

Almost certainly retarded the base timing slightly then.

A $500 VN commodore would be about 10x faster Lol

Why would timing cover make any difference?

I am confident my 1.3L carby barina is faster than an rb20e powered skyline.

Do they use stock knock sensors, or come with aftermarket ones? If so how effective is it, do you need to set the sensitivity to be quite conservative so it doesn't pick up engine noise, or would you say it is an effective safety feature?

Could be faulty knock sensors or engine noise and not real knock, it could also be really bad real knock and the sensors are not picking it up. I would highly recommend getting a tuner with a set of knock ears to sit in the car with you, drive it around hard on boost and then sit idling for 10-15minutes to really get the under bonnet temps to soar and heatsoak into the radiator/intercooler, then rev out 3rd or 2nd up a hill and get the tuner to listen, if it going to knock it will knock then, if it doesn't you can be pretty certain it will be safe all the time. The hotter the weather when you do this the better, I had my car tuned but a reputable tuner and I got some bad detonation after doing this on a 28c day, we took 2 degrees out around peak torque and it never happened again, car didn't feel any different to drive either.

Yeah if you are making under 300kw I don't see any reason to limit the boost providing you don't run into bad heat soak issues from running it pasts its efficiency. Tune it rich and conservative so its safe and everyone is happy. Recommend just one boost setting, just use less throttle if you wan't less torque.

the rb28 does sound like porn

Well if you are going to quote non stock engines I raise you this: When stock though JZs have a higher pitched note just due to the header/head design, if you listen to stock motors side by side you will see what I mean, a stock GTR sounds like ass to me, modded they sound great, but a stock JZ sounds nicer than a stock RB in my mind. Also this:

haha 2jz sounds far superior to the rb, much higher pitched note, rb20 is the only rb that compares.

Whats wrong with buying online?

Got the car back... but it has a boost leak. Became apparent after about 5 minutes of driving, pretty sure it is a boost leak anyway, really strange trumpet, belt rubbing vibraty noise. Never heard anything like it, it only occurs around peak torque as well but is very different from detonation, so back it goes tomorrow morning, oh well took it for a nice hour long drive and just didn't load it up at all in case it was an issue effecting fuel. I think what is happening on peak torque the engine is rocking enough to make one of the intercooler pipes get the smallest leak. Either way was fantastic to drive it again, I forgot how well skylines handled compared to 1.3L barinas Lol

I bet the atr43g3 is making almost 540nm by 3400rpm anyway so no.