Rolls

TODAY!! Car is all running sweet, boostworx are just fixing up a few leaking coolant hose clamps, replacing the AC bearing as its noisy as f**k and fixing up a few other basic things which I didn't have time to do, main one was the neo head has studs on each far side of the intake manifold where as the r33 head takes bolts the whole way, I didn't realise this when swapping the intake manifolds and was left with a stud on each side where I couldn't put a nut on as the stud stuck out so far, boostworx welded a socket onto the stud (has a hex end) and pulled them out far enough to get some thread to put a nut on. Said the car runs fine, no funny noises and has good oil pressure, fantastic news! they are going to run it up on the dyno to make sure it is running sweet (no det or high afrs) and then I will get pete from nistune to give a touch up tune, hoping to make a bit over the 236rwkw it made before, maybe a 5-10kw increase in the mid end, time will tell. Shaun from boostworx is perfectly capable of tuning it just want to get a hands on approach to tuning with pete where I can sit in the car and learn something along the way as I would like to be able to tune myself in the future. Anyway will post a video up when I have her back in my hands

14/7/11Trailered the car to boostworx for final touches as it won't start (pump won't prime) due to an electrical problem, also I lost some of the bell housing bolts and would like a pro to check all my work over and make sure it is 100% Once they fix up the list of things I gave them to do I'll be getting pete from Nistune to tune it, hoping to have it back end of next week or the week after. It is getting really close to running, I'm excited

30/6/11 Slowly getting all the shit on, rewired the CAS plug, got all the loom hooked up. Found out the neo crankshaft pulley is bigger for some reason so have to get a new belt before putting all the asscessories on, also my fuel hose is too short. Down to $40 left until monday when I get paid thanks to blowing 60% of the months wage on the engine lol, guess it will have to wait until next week. Also lost my size 13 spanner which I need to undo the dump pipe. Yeah I know, what the f**k uses a size 13? Oh I also broke my super small screwdriver decrimping my knock sensor plug, so need probably another $50 worth of stuff to get it going. Fun times! Technically it is progress though.

13/6/11 and she is all ready to go in!

12/6/11 Fun times, in the process of bolting all my shit onto the neo, was an auto motor so need a new manual spiggot bush which I will get on tuesday.

5/5/11 We put another cam in about a month ago and the motor would still only run on 4 cylinders with some horrible rattles, took the head off and suprisingly all the pisons and valves were fine, blown rings? stuck lifters? no idea. Decided to rip the whole thing out as I don't have any confidence in the build, massive piston bore clearance (bad piston slap) and lots of loose bolts, don't trust it to last and don't want to waste money trying to fix it. Will pull it apart and sell off all the bits. Sabaddin built motor with $5.5k in receipts as well from the previous owner. Found a neo rb25 out of an R34 that was torched, picking it up in a week or so and will be replacing the forged mess. Can't wait to get it all running again, miss the car so much. Motor is $1900 which isn't cheap but I want to do it once and do it properly, neos shit all over r33 rb25s, rb26 rods, basically an rb26 head with solid lifters, better cams and much newer engine. Hoping to get another 10-15kw once tuned with a fatter midrange due to the better motor design. Reason it has taken so long to get a motor is I fixed up my housemates shit box magna so I had a car to drive, cost about $600 to fix up, transmission blew up in the driveway a few weeks later, ended up buying a 93 barina for $1k but there goes all my savings. Clocked up some extra hours this month and made $3300 after tax for 4 days a week work. $1900 towards the motor and $150 a week to live off after rent, think it is quite achievable.

and she is dead : ( http://www.skylinesa...60#entry5703523 7.5k in 2nd and the cam snapped, heard a noise at peak torque on high boost thinking it was pinging, took it to the dyno at boostworx to diagnose and shaun thought it was the cas and recommended i bring it back for a proper look. 2 days later the exhaust cam shaft snapped into 3 pieces, did not see that coming, thought it was at worst a noisy cas bearing.

8/12/10 A creek runs under our carpark at work and with the massive downpour this afternoon it burst a huge 3m hole in the ground and flooded the carpark and surrounding offices and buildings, lots and lots of damage done, few cars were completely ruined and no longer start, the sports stadium was filled completely with water. We are on a bloody hill as well, I couldn't even understand how the water managed to pool there, there was just so much that it couldn't drain down the side streets fast enough. Anyway my car was under about 40cm of water, seals in the doors stopped it coming in but it must have leaked through a few holes in the floor. Exhaust was completely filled as well. Muffler no longer does any muffling as the water must have collapsed the baffles or something but it isn't too bad, sounds nicer imo just loud, I jacked it up on a slope and got most of it out then just drove it for an hour to boil the rest out, no more steam but the muffler is still loud, is it likely its never going to quiten down again? Spent all last night and this morning stripping the entire interior, all it has now is a front seat, even had to take the stupid centre console out to get the carpet out, even then I had to cut it once as I couldn't be f**ked removing the entire dash to get the stereo frame out. Feels like a race car with no interior, found a few small bits of rust but Ive soaked all the liquid up and vacuumed all the mud out, hopefully the carpet dries and doesn't smell, not looking forward to putting it all back together. Some photos of the damage http://sphotos.ak.fb...3_3134456_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fb...5_7436705_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fb...6_6990999_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fb...0_5299222_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fb...9_6594951_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fb...7_1904563_n.jpg http://sphotos.ak.fb...8_7711764_n.jpg 13/12/10 Put all the interior back in yesterday, sanded back the two tiny spots of surface rust and put some rust kill on it, wd40'd anything else around it. Carpets got a huge workover and look brand new now, no smell either. Feels good to have an interior again, was sick of it sounding like a race car with all the noises I could hear. Muffler is back to 95% of what it was before the flood as well which is good news, sounded awesome but was just too loud. All the cables and wires seem fine with zero rust found, no electrical problems either. Will keep an eye out for people wrecking r32s and grab a spare loom in case 6 months down the track it dies the green death though. All in all it didn't turn out too bad at all, 3 people at work had their cars written off by insurance, one was a brand new commodore that had less water than mine, sucks to be them. A few people didn't do shit and now their cars smell like absolute death and are having electrical issues. Oh well, not my problem.

Just did a road tune with Pete from the Nistune guys last night, very friendly knowledgeable guy, was great to chat to! It was a hot night around 31c which was good as that is probably the hottest weather I am going to push the car hard in, with his big knock ears found it getting a bit out of control around peak torque (5500rpm) in 3rd gear runs so pulled around 2-3degrees around that part of the map, car pulls identically but he said there was nothing he could hear afterwards, should be even better in the colder weather. On boost was around 11:1 so now that I can be confident if it doesn't knock at full load on 18psi in 30c then it shouldn't knock ever so I'm going to head out to mallala soon. Found out my O2 sensor is dead so it was idling around 17:1 and around 15:1 on cruise at times, but would fluctuate down to 11:1 due to lack of O2 feedback so hopefully that will fix my poppy idle (too lean) and bad fuel economy (too rich), will put it on the dyno to see if it throws out the map once it is functioning. Overall it looks like shaun from boostworx did a pretty good job, was originally tuned in cold weather and Pete reckons the knock he heard would have been impossible to detect on the dyno, due to different temp and loads. Not sure if the O2 was functioning when it was originally tuned, would have hoped that shaun would have picked that up but it is entirely possible it has died since then. Still have a weird issue where in semi cold weather (car been sitting for 8 hours, any less or more and it doesn't do it) and it sits on 5 degrees timing until it warms up, makes it quite difficult to drive, being as there is about 8 correction maps it could be jumping to we weren't able to pinpoint that problem but such is tuning! Highly recommend people get a road tune done after they've got their base map under control especially with someone sitting next to you who knows their stuff, even if they find the map is perfect it just leaves you with so much more confidence that the car is running safely and properly. Thanks Status for the suggestion!

yey it was approved! I am going to copy some of the key posts from the R31 club forums, basically lots has happened since the first post, can read about it here before I start copying some of it over if you want. http://motamota.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=136201.new#new but no, neg to basher, it will be a clean street car.

If you want a cheap 10, get a 900kg mazda with a 300kw turbo rotary, plenty getting around for ~$5k, just need some slicks and you'll do it, really want a cage though, those things are tin cans.

Go to any half decent nissan specialist and ask them to check the timing for you, I'm sure they will do it for cheap.

Hypergear what do you think the issue is with your latest 264rwkw turbo? The response is amazing and 260kw is a very good power output but it seems to have a huge hole in the midrange torque, is that the tune? what is up with that, is it because of the boost creep that it seems to get better?

LS1 in a skyline would be sweet.

I thought it was what all the cool kids did? who needs a wastegate

no news is no news according to david, they were busy and didn't do anything.

100% duty cycle on the injectors and no timing lol, probably go faster with it detonating and running lean though.

I wonder how many seconds you'd get with infinite boost before you did the headgasket or put a hole in a piston. Any one keen to try it out? : D

nistune fuel pump injectors afm 250-300kw high flowed turbo (choose your power level, they will all cost the same) clutch tyres tune intercooler prob set you back $5k and will make an excellent street car. or just get the tyres and nistune and settle for 200kw, this will set you back maybe $1.5k if you get proper tyres, anything over 200kw to 300kw will cost the same as you need all the same supporting mods.

If the timing belt is fine (it will be timing wise, might be old and need to be replaced though) and the CAS is set correctly (get a timing light and check) and you have a stock ecu then there is nothing else timing related that can be changed. Changing the timing belt (if it is old and frayed) should be $400 ish max, whoever quoted you $1500 is taking you for a ride, I think I got the water pump done as well in that 400 when I paid someone years ago.

What do you mean when you saying 'timing', as in the cam belt? If you do it yourself you don't need to sticker it, just have a look and see if it looks new, that won't cause any issues though. When I said base timing I meant the CAS.

Could be a million things, most likely fuel related though, fuel pump > filter > injectors > fuel reg. It is likely to be one of these. Other thing is has the base timing been changed? Whatever you do stop driving it when it is pinging, you will destroy a piston/ring land very quickly.

ah ok that makes sense.

and he wants to do it himself as well and not pay a pro, there is a reasonable chance you will go backwards, unless of course you are just smoothing the edges, in which case you probably won't go forwards or backwards.

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