Rolls

If the motors cost that much over there (note not much more than they do here, a neo rb25 complete motor is almost $3k here as well) because we have to import them as well then keep a STOCK rb20 block and just buy a TD06 kit or a highflowed stock turbo. A highflowed rb20 turbo will make 240kw without issue, I'm sure you have turbo builders in the states that can do this for you, and just use a stock rb20. The reality is most people don't want this nor do they do this.

On the track it is a different story being as you can keep the revs up and hence take advantage of a bigger turbo, around town is mainly what Im talking about and really the rb20 does suck compared to a VCT enabled 25 around town, no doubt about it. Yeah but you don't need headwork on a 25, it works great as it is, I'm yet to see any evidence of headwork on an rb20 making any difference to the low down torque which is imo where the motor is lacking, top end isn't the issue it can still make big power if you want. SR vs rb20 for say 250kw the SR will be better around town as it is a 4 pot which means bigger exhaust pulses and hence it can spool turbos nicer than the 20. I personally am not a huge fan of them though. Why don't you spend all this money porting heads and upping compression on an rb25 or rb30 instead? It doesn't magically cost more because it has more capacity, it should cost pretty much the same amount if you are building a motor from scratch. I just don't get the point in spending this money on an rb20, sure you could make it better but when its 'better' it will still be worse than a stock rb25, and if you spent that same money on an rb25 or rb30 instead then it would be light years ahead of your worked 20. I'm pretty sure he was talking about on the street, on the track it is moot and both motors can be strong performers due to being able to keep revs up and be at high speeds (more load), also on the track the lower midrange torque is often a bad thing as it will cause more wheelspin, the 20 certainly can shine in this place like you are talking about. Though if you are starting from scratch and building a motor, why not start with the better base?

It is the actual peak torque value that will create the wheel spin, not how hard it comes on, however the harder it comes on usually the higher the value.

Read one of the 50 million existing thread on this issue. Short answer it is most likely a combination of coilpacks, plugs, too rich tune.

No the main reason why the 20 sucks is because it is only 2L, has nothing to do with R&D. Even with head work etc (which imo will make it worse down low) it will still suck down low and have no torque, nothing you do will change this, it will always spool turbos later because it has less capacity. It IS a waste to build one compared to putting the money towards another motor. You can't make 300kw with an RB20 and expect it to be daily drivable, ti will be a dog, a completely stock rb25 however will make this power and still be nice to drive around town, two main reasons for this, extra 0.5L capacity and it has VCT which the rb20 does not, it also has a higher compression ratio of 9:1 opposed to 8.5:1 The reason no one does what you are proposing to do is because they realise what I have said above and see that it would be a complete waste of money. There is doing something different because you are smart and know it will work, and there is doing something different for the sake of it. The latter is dumb.

the rb20 will probably drive all around australia twice on the redline the entire way without blowing lol. I think most motorbikes have a longer stroke haha still, hopefully they are dumb enough to keep driving it and they catch them.

Look at the dyno sheet, all of these turbos will give you a smack in the back when they come on song if running 18-20psi.

Plus side is every cop will be keeping an eye out for it, before I bet no one gave a shit.

Yeah my mate heard this today, cops can't tell him shit about what has happened though, whether they have been caught or if they at least found the car.

lol...

nothing like mafia to lay some harsh truth

SAU is generally pretty good, anyone who posts generally retarded shit like that gets shut down pretty quickly, nissansilvia is great if you like those kind of topics though haha

A highflowed rb25 turbo with small spec wheels would be a good idea, something highflowed to GT2530 or smaller specs would be appropriate for an rb20, ~210-220kw, anymore and it gets too laggy for a street car imo, which is where an rb25 is great, can make 250kw with close to stock response.

You don't need many gears, all the gearing can be done via the main crank drive pully, a pully on the turbo (hybrid whatever you want to call it now) and another single gear. It will definitely take up more space but not much more than the system stao is proposing, dont forget you now need 2 more batteries and a massive alternator to charge them if you go electric. Mechanical is always preferred (imo) as its mechanical energy > drive opposed to mechanical energy > alternator > electrical energy > battery > motor control circuit > brushes (motor) > mechanical energy This is a centrifugal super charger which is basically a belt driven turbo, which is what I was suggesting, only with a sprocket and an exhaust wheel as well, as you can see it is no bigger than a turbo, smaller even. The bigger the turbo the more power you make on less boost. Stick a T51r on there and it will be making more than 240kw on 12psi. There is nothing magical about these turbos and the power they make on a certain boost level, it is all about the size of the compressor, this isn't to say they aren't a great upgrade for the cost though!

There are these wonderful inventions called gears... how do you think super chargers work?

So electric supercharger at low revs, or it will assist the turbo in spooling up? I have an idea, could you drive the turbo from the crank (like a supercharger) but use some sort of sprocket so that if the exhaust wants to turn the shaft faster than engine speed it can without issue? So basically it only saps energy from the crank at low engine speeds when the turbo wouldn't normally be spinning that speed, when there is enough exhaust energy the turbine takes over and spins it. How does that sound? I don't know how you'd route the drive from the crank to where the turbo normally sits but I'm sure with enough money it could be done.

For a daily street car that will be a nice set up, do that.

Yeah but you are going to spend $6k building the motor. So no the 25 would be better value, if you plan on spending that $6k on turbo and supporting mods then stick with the 20, just don't waste cash building it.

I don't see how that is possible, unless you start using variable vayne technology or sequential turbos.

Sell the car and buy one with 220kw. Be cheaper and quicker imo.

I dont even understand what he is proposing to do

there is about 100kg difference max, when stock there isn't a huge difference between the two motors, but when pushing say 250kw the difference is massive. when stock the top end is the same anyway, dives over after 6500rpm.

Lol you used a paper gasket in the dump pipe? hahah if they did the dump chances are that is what is the issue, it is a piece of piss to do yourself, new gasket is about $30.

Something a mate told me is the dowel will have much tighter tolerances than the bolts and will assist in dampening any vibrations and noise.

there is opinion and there is fact lol