Rolls

ok

It'll just get you a defect and sound gay, probably leak as well just to piss you off

I wouldn't go back there, sounds like he just fixed stuff for the sake of it.

lol are you drunk?

If you can at least take the old motor out, put the new one in without really bolting anything up and tow it to a workshop you'll save a lot of cash. rb25 is much nicer to drive than an rb20, especially when you want more than 200kw

Why did they replace the exhaust gasket?

something is leaking, could be exhaust or intake side.

Mines works great, what is the issue you have with them? Controls boost well, window switch works great, lots of people recommend them?

Engine neo rb25 $1900, used all ancillaries off a s1 rb25 because that's what was already in there, but you could use rb20 gear no doubt. Tune, some connectors and wires, random bolts etc, did all the work myself so didn't really cost anything apart from the cost of the motor and some tools, loctite etc, borrowing an engine crane, hiring a trailor. Maybe a few hundred on top of the cost of the motor for new belts and random stuff? This was my first engine swap I did pretty much on my own with some help from mates so it took longer than expected and was a fair pain in the ass, but keep at it and you'll get it done, it is just like expensive lego really. If you use an r33 rb25 it'll be like 1k for a bare block, budget for tune and stuff that is broken etc, id say 2.5k max if you do ALL the work yourself. I can't see hiring equipment, nistune for the rb20 ecu, tune etc exceeding 1.5k If you want it legal you need r33 brakes and an inspection, then replace all the bushes etc that they fail you for the first time, thatd prob be another $1k once you pass the inspection.

Everyone always seems to bitch that it doesn't flow as well, fine for 2L I'm sure, but if you've increased the capacity to 2.4L then wouldn't you want it to rival the rb25s head?

assholes, I'm buying a viper or something kickass as an alarm, might start pulling the fuel pump fuse as well if I have to leave it outdoors. Paranoid : /

seriously guys read the thread there is 20 pages of answers

Has a worse head as well, I really doubt it makes more torque or power. Freak motor is what people say when they have no idea haha.

Probably just seen lots of threads, I doubt it has changed much. Could always try and find out who keeps the theft stats.

oh lol, if only I drew it in 3D I would have seen the very obvious error in my design. NO COMPRESSION, lololol

Here is another idea, rotary valve but I've fixed the problem of needing complex seals, thoughts? the existing designs that require sealing that would be very difficult to do

He hasn't reground them yet, that was the plan eventually however. Fairly sure he is using the rb25de cams, but not sure.

Yeah this is more a thought experiment. Assuming there was zero issues with sealing and the hinges/weight etc, would a flap valve like that fill the bore more effectively?

A cylinder with an intake port and a valve? I thought it was obvious. edit: I labled the image, I left the exhaust port out for simplicity.

What does everyone think of this? It has to allow less obstruction than a conventional valve, you would need some sort of strange seal for the valve stem as it would move sideways as well as up and down but I'm sure there is a solution for it. What do people think, any good reason why this wouldn't work?

Wait what?

Could dynamic timing from the cam cause this? I've been told that I think it was 25de and det cams are the same overlap + lift etc, but one is offset by a couple of degrees and they usually dial it in with adjustable gears if using in a different motor. I can't remember what the cams were that people were talking about, though when I was looking for a replacement exhaust one for my motor someone mentioned that, I'll see if I can dig up the reference. David told me that the fuel pressure was sweet and the injectors were all flowing the same. Pretty sure it is a nismo FPR (stock with adjustment) and decent pump.

It isn't so much as a problem as what nissan designed the ECU to do. Basically they made the upper right quadrant of the map very rich in fuel and low on timing, this was so if some average joe upped the boost and went around flogging the motor it didn't blow up. Basically an extra safety factor, all you need is a tuner to remap this part of the map with more sane fuel and ignition values, obviously making sure the engine is in good condition first (clean injectors, good pump etc). Standard ECU isn't easily remappable, if you get a nistune daughterboard plugged in it allows real time tuning like on a full aftermarket ECU, highly recommended. Building a motor, rb20, rb25, rb27, rb30 etc is all the same, just different crank/rods/pistons depending on the combo so if you are going to build a motor build a 30 as it wins hands down. HOWEVER you want a circuit car yes? 300kw is OODLES of power for a circuit car, also with 2.5L 300kw can be had without too much lag making it very nice to drive still, also 300kw isn't unachievable for a stock engine, it will put up with this sort of abuse for a long time if careful and meticulously tuned. So bang for buck, get a highflow suitable for 250-300kw (check out the hypergear thread), z32 air flow meter, metal intake pipe, intercooler, bigger injectors, and a nistune computer, all the supporting mods (and get it tuned lol). All the supporting mods to handle 250-300kw reliably on the track will set you back $5k (clutch, tyres suspension, diff etc) this is your best option by far, you have a spare rb25 if it blows up. If you stick with 250kw you will have a very fast car still and it will probably last a very long time if you get it tuned correctly. Getting it tuned correctly is VERY important, this is the difference between a car that lasts 3 months and one that lasts 3 years, do not skimp on tuning and do not skimp on a tuner. If you go and build a motor, there goes $5k minimum and you haven't got ANY of the supporting mods, what use is a built motor with stock turbo and intercooler etc? Especially if you can't afford the $1k for semi slicks on the track, complete waste. Do not do this unless you are willing to spend $10k minimum to do everything that goes along with the motor, in the end you won't have a faster car anyway, 300kw is probably the limit unless you are a pro driver, especially with the suspension setup you will probably use. So my advice don't touch the motor and do all the supporting mods and enjoy. Also don't forget if you build a motor you will be needing to spend at least $1k getting it tuned, I don't think you realise how expensive this will all get, at least $10k to get it all going, probably more once you fix all the stuff that breaks along the way. My ultimate advice is sell the car and buy a mint 300kw example with everything already done, built motor the works. Your R33 is probably worth what $9k? Sell it for that, add on your $5k and you can get a $14k car, there are lots of 250-300kw R33s (r32s as well) for this price with all the mods you want and in very nice condition all ready to go. Think LONG and HARD before considering building an engine, you will almost certainly regret it if $5k is your limit. No offense but people say this all the time and go and build stupid engines like an rb24 etc, it costs them a shitload and in the end someone who has spent a couple of grand on a highflow on their stock rb25 beats it in every single way. You drive a skyline, nothing you do will be original, plus when you go to the track they won't go 'wow thats an rb24 when you drive past' they will go 'wow he isn't as fast as that other car!'. Being different for the sake of it is stupid, being different because you found a better way is what you should do, however everyone has already figured out the best way to do things. Bang for buck, this is the philosophy you should be using! Read all this twice (I'm serious) and take care!

I have studied engineering but not mech or civil, could you explain that with a bit more info or perhaps post a link? Curious what exactly you are saying. Thanks.

Why would a bolt shear any differently to a dowel? If they were both the same grade of steel, wouldn't they take the loads the same way?